Guitar Radius setup question.

What do you do you do with one-piece bridges if they don't "match" the neck radius perfectly....which covers most non-Fender guitars...?

You generally use a bridge which matches the radius or as close as you can get. Most none fender f/b radius' are a lot shallower than fender style and shaped to match typical f/b radius'. The f/b radius should be pretty close to the bridge radius simply for comfort.
 
Yeah...I get that...the bridge that comes with the guitar should have been designed to match the neck radius...
...but they're talking about radius gauges to set radius for all types of guitars, so I just wondered how they managed that with the one-piece bridges. :)
 
Quite clearly you don't. That is not what they are for and not how it is commonly and best done. That has been pointed out to you.

Seriously, notched rulers and radius gauges for setting action? You need to take a step back and do a little reading.

No, I did not say setting the action with radius gauges. You didn't read correctly. Nor have I ever said anything about notched rulers for setting the action. I know how to set the action. The question was, because of the size of the gauges, if put under the strings and adjusting each saddle until it touches the gauge, which is how you use one, how would one apply it at different actions since the radius gauge is a certain size? Put it in a different area, etc? I do not know.
 
The question was, because of the size of the gauges, if put under the strings and adjusting each saddle until it touches the gauge, which is how you use one
No. That is not how you use one. It is used for checking fingerboard radius. Never as a action measuring tool.

You "can" set it under strings to get an "idea" of what the radius of the strings is.....But why??
Ultimate string height and radius is determined by what feels good to you, how far you bend, how low you like your action, picking attack, etc. etc. etc. Believe me, if you have an old tele with a 7.5 inch radius and you bend a whole note or more, raising the e and b strings so they do not choke out on the bends, you will NOT have a 7.5 inch radius on your strings.

I don't care what Stew Mac tries to pitch this tool as, it's only real practical use is for checking the radius of a fingerboard. And even then, it's only real use is to a luthier who is radiusing his own boards from raw stock.
For me, it is indispensable, but for that purpose only.
 
I don't care what Stew Mac tries to pitch this tool as, it's only real practical use is for checking the radius of a fingerboard. And even then, it's only real use is to a luthier who is radiusing his own boards from raw stock.
For me, it is indispensable, but for that purpose only.

I just use my radius sanding blocks. Pencil line down the c/l and across the board in a few places and sand away... The radius gauges wouldn't have much use in my workshop.

I also set the action on adjustable saddles by eye so no use there either. Takes me about five minutes normally.
 
No, I did not say setting the action with radius gauges.

So what is your question?

You didn't read correctly.

Or you did not write it clearly.

Nor have I ever said anything about notched rulers for setting the action.

You started an entire thread about them.

I know how to set the action.

The why are you asking n00b questions?

The question was, because of the size of the gauges, if put under the strings and adjusting each saddle until it touches the gauge,

I thought you said you did not say anything about setting action with radius gauges?

which is how you use one,

No. It isn't.

how would one apply it at different actions since the radius gauge is a certain size? Put it in a different area, etc?

You wouldn't. I suppose you could lay it across the top of the strings but it wouldn't tell you anything useful or help in any way..

I do not know.

That is what I pointed out to you. Go and research.
 
Well, good morning Muttley. Was wondering when you'd jump in. :)

I built a "sled" that I double stick my board onto. It is machined out of Aluminum with two parallel walls to hold the radiusing block in place. I do use the radius tool to periodically check the radius, and it does the double duty of giving me a visual of the correct thickness of the board.

I just set the radius gauge at the end of the board flat on the bottom of the "sled" and when the F/B is at the same height as the gauge, I'm done. Works well for a 12 inch radius.

@ delirium.

No offense intended, But you are dealing with 2 guys that build and repair guitars for a living as well as other knowledgeable posters. It is plain from the questions you are asking and your defensiveness in asserting that you know what you are doing, that you clearly don't.
My advice? listen and learn instead of arguing.

No one is trying to chop you down here, just trying to offer some hard earned wisdom. Just between mutt and I, there is 60 some years of combined knowledge.
 
...........

I built a "sled" that I double stick my board onto. It is machined out of Aluminum with two parallel walls to hold the radiusing block in place. I do use the radius tool to periodically check the radius, and it does the double duty of giving me a visual of the correct thickness of the board.

I just set the radius gauge at the end of the board flat on the bottom of the "sled" and when the F/B is at the same height as the gauge, I'm done. Works well for a 12 inch radius.

....

I have a router jig to rough out the radius. I'll do maybe a dozen of each common radius and stock them then finish by hand when I need them. In a pinch I can do a flat board to radius in about 20 minutes by hand but I hate the purple hands and dust that results so I prefer to use the router for the lions share of hogging out.
 
I rough out the radius on my belt sander. In the old days, I'd do the whole radius on it. Now I've gotten lazy I guess.

I keep on telling myself I'll build an adjustable swing arm, but never seem to find the time to.
:laughings:
 
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