M
MatchBookNotes
New member
I noticed that on some sites sell shielding kits, but can i not get the same or similar material from a box store or a hardware store?
I'm still hunting cheap, conductive spray paint. The price of that carbon paint is outrageous.
At some point, there was a metalized copper automotive gasket paint that was supposedly conductive. I don't know if it's still around.
"Metallic" spray paint, like "aluminum" is not actually metallic nor conductive. It's a funny old world, huh?![]()
See my first line in the previous message.Your options for paint are this.
See my first line in the previous message.![]()
Cavity shielding is broadly misunderstood in so many ways. Among other claims, insisted upon my a major music producer (Sony, MGM, etc.) friend, is that cavity shielding degrades hi-frequency output in guitars, presumably by capacitance, though I find no major capacitance change on the bench. [shrug]
Shielding can do nothing for EMI, just ESI, anyway...and almost anything reasonably conductive will do the job as well as anything else -- if you can just get it to stay put and stay connected, as you say.I'll just continue my leisurely search for mildly-conductive spray paint. In my studio environment, shielding isn't much of a pressing issue.
It's extraordinarily unlikely that I'll ever part with the kind of money Stew-Mac wants for that stuff (or anything else they sell, come to that). Ouch, what prices...
Aluminum is fine for shielding so if you can fined a spray that has ali in it your ok. The reason I don't use it is that it's hard to get a good long term ground connection to it.
Your options for paint are this.
A pot of that is going to last you years. I use braided self adhesive copper foil to avoid continuity issues although they are probably just theoretical in most of the applications we use shielding for.
Here is a cavity I did just yesterday on an bass I was putting MEC active pickups in.
That looks like a beautiful instrument....Any full pictures?
No, you can't, but you also don't need it. You can use aluminum foil and a spray adhesive to do the same job, and it works just as well. You also don't need a cap on the bridge ground. Just make sure all your shielding material is touching, that your pots are touching the shielding. It's really much easier to do a good job than most sites on the internet will tell you.
If you want to know more, use the search button. I've written enough on this one already.
Light
"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
Heavy copper foil tape. You can buy the stuff in the garden section of any hardware store. Supposedly it keeps slugs out of your garden.
http://www.amazon.com/Slug-Snail-Copper-Tape-Barri/dp/B000QD3BPW
It also works remarkably well as a high-conductivity material for shielding. No solder needed. Just press and stick it to the next piece and it should make a highly conductive connection.
There's also gummed aluminum foil tape. I have a roll of it I got somewhere.And cost about 5 times what aluminum foil would cost, while not improving the result one bit.
I want a (cheap) conductive spray paint for hitting the inside of active, plastic-cased effects and studio equipment where the shielding may be of more useful significance.
I want a (cheap) conductive spray paint for hitting the inside of active, plastic-cased effects and studio equipment where the shielding may be of more useful significance.
If there was a cheaper rattle can that worked we'd know about it.
Such confidence!
I'll let you know when I find it. The gasket paint has Stew-Mac beat by about a factor of five in price and would work as well if it's still available. I just have to remember to go look when I'm by a real automotive supply place.