Getting acoustic fixed tomorrow

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danny.guitar

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It seems there's only one guy around here that can fix this guitar. He is going to replace the entire bridge with a new one. He said the total will be $150.

He's also going to give it a new saddle. He didn't mention what kind of material it would be, probably plastic. Should I get him to make one from bone? Maybe replace the nut with a bone one too? How much money do you think I'd be looking at there if he's charging $150 for a new bridge? How much would you charge at your shop?

Or should I just let him put a plastic one in there and get the bone saddle/nut later on? Would there be any sound differences in a bone nut vs plastic? What about the saddle? :confused:
 
To do th job correctly he or she is going to have to cut the saddle to fit the setup so yes get a bone one cut now. It shouldn't add to the cost. If the shop know their stuff then it would be bone anyway.


As to cost $150 sounds good. I'd be at least the same in £'s. Have you asked if he is making a new bridge or fitting a pre cut one? That would make a difference to the cost and outcome.
 
muttley600 said:
To do th job correctly he or she is going to have to cut the saddle to fit the setup so yes get a bone one cut now. It shouldn't add to the cost. If the shop know their stuff then it would be bone anyway.


As to cost $150 sounds good. I'd be at least the same in £'s. Have you asked if he is making a new bridge or fitting a pre cut one? That would make a difference to the cost and outcome.
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When I took it there he showed me a block of wood and said he has to make a new bridge. So I'm guessing he'll have to cut it himself.

I'm going to ask him if it would cost extra to use a bone saddle. He didn't mention what material he just said it would have a new bridge and saddle.
 
Thats great. In that case he should do a bone saddle as standard. If he's OK with cutting and fitting a new bridge he wouldn't use anything other than bone unless asked to.

Just to be clear. From memory your box has an under saddle pickup. I assume he is going to set this in the new bridge?
 
muttley600 said:
Thats great. In that case he should do a bone saddle as standard. If he's OK with cutting and fitting a new bridge he wouldn't use anything other than bone unless asked to.

Just to be clear. From memory your box has an under saddle pickup. I assume he is going to set this in the new bridge?
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I don't know, I think it's an under saddle pickup. I don't ever use it though, I hate plugging up an acoustic. So I don't really care what he does with that. :p

What's usually a good time frame to expect this to be done in? Few days? Week? Maybe more if he's busy? Just curious.

I bet if the other shop had worked on it I'd be getting a guitar back with a hole in it..."fixed! no more bridge to worry about! by the way we're totally not liable for this, good luck!"
 
danny.guitar said:
I don't know, I think it's an under saddle pickup. I don't ever use it though, I hate plugging up an acoustic. So I don't really care what he does with that. :p

What's usually a good time frame to expect this to be done in? Few days? Week? Maybe more if he's busy? Just curious.

I bet if the other shop had worked on it I'd be getting a guitar back with a hole in it..."fixed! no more bridge to worry about! by the way we're totally not liable for this, good luck!"
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It would take me anywhere from a 5-12 hours depending on a few things. When I'd have time to do it wold be the key. In other words it's not how long it takes but how busy I am. Right now you'd be waiting at least a fortnight....

Ask him he'll tell you roughly how long. Better to get a good job than a rush job every time ;)
 
Yeah I definitely don't mind waiting so long as it's done well.

So does he have to carve out a new bridge from a block of wood? :confused: That sounds very difficult and time consuming. How is that done?
 
Yep its carved from a block of wood or bridge blank.

Cutting it to shape is just the start. You need to get the saddle slot positioned in the right place as it's has to go where the old one was. He'll most likely take all measurements off the old bridge while it's in place. No room for error. Then final shape and finish and a perfect fit to the belly. The new bridge pin holes need to be cut just right and reamed to match the existing taper and bridge plate. Then clamp it up and come back to set the right saddle hight and slot depth. Cut a new saddle and then do the setup.

Like I said about 5 - 12 hours work to do it right. 5 hours would be pushing it a bit. If he does a good job you have a bargain at $150
 
I am having the top of my Guild fixed. It broke almost from end to end. I havent heard a word since I gave it to the repair guy and he gave me no estimate. I await the final outcome of my stupidity.
 
muttley600 said:
Yep its carved from a block of wood or bridge blank.

Cutting it to shape is just the start. You need to get the saddle slot positioned in the right place as it's has to go where the old one was. He'll most likely take all measurements off the old bridge while it's in place. No room for error. Then final shape and finish and a perfect fit to the belly. The new bridge pin holes need to be cut just right and reamed to match the existing taper and bridge plate. Then clamp it up and come back to set the right saddle hight and slot depth. Cut a new saddle and then do the setup.

Like I said about 5 - 12 hours work to do it right. 5 hours would be pushing it a bit. If he does a good job you have a bargain at $150
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Wow, $150 seems like a great deal for that kind of work. I hope this won't turn out like the last time I got my guitar 'repaired' aka broke. But he's a nice guy and he sounded sure of himself and like he knew what he was doing.

How do you cut the block of wood to shape? Any certain tools? Just curious how this stuff is done.
 
danny.guitar said:
It seems there's only one guy around here that can fix this guitar. He is going to replace the entire bridge with a new one. He said the total will be $150.

He's also going to give it a new saddle. He didn't mention what kind of material it would be, probably plastic. Should I get him to make one from bone? Maybe replace the nut with a bone one too? How much money do you think I'd be looking at there if he's charging $150 for a new bridge? How much would you charge at your shop?

Or should I just let him put a plastic one in there and get the bone saddle/nut later on? Would there be any sound differences in a bone nut vs plastic? What about the saddle? :confused:
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I usually would always go with bone but it really depends on what the guitar sounds like. If it sounds trebly bone might make it more so. If it has plenty of bass already then you love cleaning it up some with a bone saddle plus you add alot of extra little bone artifacts. Micarta is a good choice too.

I guess you won't know what it sounds like till you get the new bridge put on that will make a difference with just a different density wood.

I wood imagine the low end for a new bone nut would be around $75.00 put it really depends on how much set up is required. I think you would probably save money in the long run by doing them both at the same time. "hence only one setup required"
 
Sure is scarey to have anyone work on your honey. I once had a fne RAMIREZ
that I dearly loved. One evening the bridge just popped off. i took it to my local luthier, who was well thought of in town. Two weeks later I get it back. Instead of putting the original back on, he replaced it with a crudely made jap POS. The tone was destroyed. I quizzed him about not using the original. He said something like " well there was wood stuck to it and it would take a long time to get it off " I'm thinking...You stupid SOB...you have ruined a $2000 Ramirez you asshole. Your only course of action if they screw up is to tell everybody you know what a jerk the guy is. He won't be around long. So my question is....Why is he making a NEW bridge??? Why not put the original back on???
Danger ....danger....danger!!!
 
chazba said:
Sure is scarey to have anyone work on your honey. I once had a fne RAMIREZ
that I dearly loved. One evening the bridge just popped off. i took it to my local luthier, who was well thought of in town. Two weeks later I get it back. Instead of putting the original back on, he replaced it with a crudely made jap POS. The tone was destroyed. I quizzed him about not using the original. He said something like " well there was wood stuck to it and it would take a long time to get it off " I'm thinking...You stupid SOB...you have ruined a $2000 Ramirez you asshole. Your only course of action if they screw up is to tell everybody you know what a jerk the guy is. He won't be around long. So my question is....Why is he making a NEW bridge??? Why not put the original back on???
Danger ....danger....danger!!!
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See this thread. I would have had a go at fixing the split but I haven't seen it close. It may need a new block. He has at least has offered the second best solution and the cost isn't huge. I hope he does a good job for Danny as he's been messed around with this guitar already.

You should always be sure of what your luthier repair guy is going to do to your guitar before handing it over, but I guess you know that now :(. His excuse for not reattaching the old one has to be one of the best I've heard. Nine times from ten its easy as long as you get it done quick and there is no obvious problem with the integrity of the join. Bad luck with that one.
 
danny.guitar said:
Wow, $150 seems like a great deal for that kind of work. I hope this won't turn out like the last time I got my guitar 'repaired' aka broke. But he's a nice guy and he sounded sure of himself and like he knew what he was doing.

How do you cut the block of wood to shape? Any certain tools? Just curious how this stuff is done.
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Most guys would cut the outline on a band saw after thicknessing the block about 1mm thicker than the highest point. To shape the wings I use good sharp rasps and files and carve the profile with gouges. The radius is shaped with rasps and files. Others guys use linishers and routing jigs. I do if I'm going to be doing more than four or five the same. The saddle slot is cut with a small routing bit and cleaned up with a thin square mortice chisel. The bridge pin holes are drilled with a sharp Forsner bit and a slow pillar drill and opened out with a reamer once the bridge is down on the body. The whole thing is finished in my case with cabinet scrapers and a light oil coat. Others sometimes sand to around 1000 grit and fewer still will then burnish with oil and shavings to give it a real shine.

If the top has a distinct radius and the bottom of the bridge needs to be fitted to meet it I shoot this before cutting the wings and radius. I do it with french chalk as a marker on the top. Removing small amounts until the whole of the bridge is in contact with the belly.

There are as many different ways of doing it as there are luthiers and none of us are right or wrong, whatever works for you is good. Only the result can be right or wrong not the method.
 
Hey Muttley, slightly off-topic, but - in the international luthier brotherhood, which you are a part of, do you know any Irish guys? There's a few of them around, but I get the feeling some might be cowboys. Nothing has happened to my guitars yet that I haven't been able to fix, but just in case...

Anyway, back to Danny's problem - hope you get this sorted out once and for all, Danny. You've had a rough ride these past few months with this guitar. Here's to hoping this new guy knows his stuff; I'm sure he does.
 
32-20-Blues said:
Hey Muttley, slightly off-topic, but - in the international luthier brotherhood, which you are a part of, do you know any Irish guys? There's a few of them around, but I get the feeling some might be cowboys. Nothing has happened to my guitars yet that I haven't been able to fix, but just in case...

Anyway, back to Danny's problem - hope you get this sorted out once and for all, Danny. You've had a rough ride these past few months with this guitar. Here's to hoping this new guy knows his stuff; I'm sure he does.
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Not really, Most of the Irish guys I know are working over here. In any case I wouldn't name names here. PM me if you want a "qualified" answer ;) The few Irish guys I know mostly came out of Lowden a good few years ago but they may be able to give me a few names if your after a recommendation. The other s are more into violin and cello.
 
muttley600 said:
Not really, Most of the Irish guys I know are working over here. In any case I wouldn't name names here. PM me if you want a "qualified" answer ;) The few Irish guys I know mostly came out of Lowden a good few years ago but they may be able to give me a few names if your after a recommendation. The other s are more into violin and cello.
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^Thanks Muttley - I'll be in touch.
 
$150 for to make a new bridge is a hell of a deal. That is what we charge just to reglue a bridge, so unless he can get a replacement bridge from the manufacturer (which can be dubious with most manufacturers), it's a great deal. Even with Martin's and Taylors, where we can get replacement bridges, we still charge $150 just for the labor, and the bridge is extra.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Wow, that sounds like a shitload of work.

I dropped it off there yesterday. The repair man wasn't there so I just filled out a 'repair ticket' and they left it in his shop area.

I hope he knows what he's doing!

If something happens I'll just buy another decent budget guitar until I can afford a nicer one. I played one there by Sigma Guitars, it was like $350, and it sounded a lot better than mine.
 
danny.guitar said:
Wow, that sounds like a shitload of work.

I dropped it off there yesterday. The repair man wasn't there so I just filled out a 'repair ticket' and they left it in his shop area.

I hope he knows what he's doing!

If something happens I'll just buy another decent budget guitar until I can afford a nicer one. I played one there by Sigma Guitars, it was like $350, and it sounded a lot better than mine.
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I would probably be a cool guitar for you, Sigma is distributed by Martin-more or less like Epiphone is Gibson's lower end and Squire is Fender's....
 
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