TelePaul
J to the R O C
32-20-Blues said:Last I checked, people were paying big money for that look.
Yeah around €4000

32-20-Blues said:Last I checked, people were paying big money for that look.

muttley600 said:Granted..but what about the softness of the finish. Would you expect Polyurethane to be that soft? I wouldn't. I'm sure you've seen printing in soft finish before like I have but its usually on newly cured finishes. I'm waiting on a guy I know who supplies my finishing gear to call back he's a mine of experience. I'll run it past him later.
Yeh fair enough I can understand that. I'm alway very reluctant to take on cosmetic repairs in any case. They will never pay the bills.. and are more trouble than they are worth.Light said:Our general rule of thumb is, if it's not nitro, it can't be fixed. Shelac excepted, of course, but on the whole it works pretty well. The guys at Taylor keep telling us that you can do some pretty decent touchup with their UV stuff, but I just don't buy it. More to the point, we don't allow anything but nitro and shellac in our spray booth, so nothing else is repairable IN OUR SHOP at the very least.
Light
"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
I thought I could see a bit of that on the picture. Again its kind of contrary to what I would have expected polyurethane to do. Its quite normal to get that with lacquers and finishes that breath, its called "drop in". You can see on a shed load of older guitars or furniture.I think you might be onto something there. Having seen the guitar in the flesh, as it were, I noticed that the finish seems to be raising ever so slightly along the grain in certain parts. It is only apperent at an angle under light, but it is still definitely there. I would imagine that swelling timber could lift the polyurethene slightly if adhesion isn't all it should be.
muttley600 said:The idea for a flat finish whether its gloss satin or any other is to keep building finish untill its finished dropping into the grain or grain fill to avoid it. If it shows up after buffing it would mean that the finish is still curing or the grain was open when it was loaded. Not as sure if this would apply to polyurethane as I haven't used it but I would have thought so.
muttley600 said:Yeh fair enough I can understand that. I'm alway very reluctant to take on cosmetic repairs in any case. They will never pay the bills.. and are more trouble than they are worth.
Yeh, but do you find poeple step back when you tell them what your rate is for jobs like that. I do? A lot of folks are happy to pay more per hour to get their car fixed but think we should work for minimum wageLight said:Oh, they pay the bills for us when we do them. We charge what they cost at our regular hourly rate. We always recomend against purely cosmetic work, and our prices for touch up and such help to insure that most people take our advice!![]()
Light
"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
I still shy away from a lot of that sort of work because it eats into more essential and productive jobs.muttley600 said:Yeh, but do you find poeple step back when you tell them what your rate is for jobs like that. I do? A lot of folks are happy to pay more per hour to get their car fixed but think we should work for minimum wageI still shy away from a lot of that sort of work because it eats into more essential and productive jobs.
Light said:It depends on the person. Every now and then people will ask, "why so much?" The answer is simple; Our hourly rate is $80 an hour, and this job will take X number of hours. We don't negotiate, and if you don't want to pay it, you don't need to get the work done.
As for the "you charge too much" folks, well, that is why I'm not posting here under my own name. I use my name on every other board I post on, but sometimes you just gotta vent. Around here, I can vent. Hopefully my useful content outways the fumes. Yeah, those idiots are a pain in the ass.
Light
"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
Little jobs like a simple truss rod tweak or intonation with bridge saddles I'll often do on the spot and for free. Safe in the knowledge that when they need a proper job doing they'll call me. If any music shop is not happy to give free considered advice or pre sales help even if it's on a instrument you bring in take your business elsewhere. Its a sure sign that their after sales service is not going to be up to much.Its my experience that guitar shops in the USA are both better value and better equipped to serve the customer than ones in Ireland anyway. A few years back I brought my guitar in to have the action adjusted and had to plead with the guy just to look at it...since then I've done it myself.
muttley600 said:Little jobs like a simple truss rod tweak or intonation with bridge saddles I'll often do on the spot and for free. Safe in the knowledge that when they need a proper job doing they'll call me. If any music shop is not happy to give free considered advice or pre sales help even if it's on a instrument you bring in take your business elsewhere. Its a sure sign that their after sales service is not going to be up to much.
Interesting, Right from the start I thought they were finished in Nitro. As you said you have a pre upgrade model. Fenders own press spec release list it as Polyurethane. See HereTelePaul said:I got this e mail back from Fender today:
Hi Paul,
Thanks for your email.
The Highway One guitars are not finished in a poly urethane lacquer. They are currently finished in a Nitro Cellulose lacquer and prior to the upgrade it was finished in a similar lacquer, classed as 'Satin' finish. It has similar properties to the Nitro Cellulose finish which in itself is much softer than a hard polyurethane.
In light of this, it will wear much quicker than a Poly lacquer will. Depending on how the guitar is cleaned or treated or how often it is used, you will begin to notice wear on the guitar.
If you are thinking of having it resprayed, I would recommend a soft lacquer if you want to keep it original. Alternatively, you could have it finished in a hard Polyurethane.
I hope this helps,
Regards,
Jamie Latty
Fender GBI Services Coordinator
Interesting...
means nothing. Satin is not a type of lacquer it is a decription of the cosmetic effect .finished in a similar lacquer, classed as 'Satin' finish.
e soundTelePaul said:I read a review of the Highway Ones in this months guitarist..thewy siad the new nitro finish still isn't like the American standards, and that it is prone to scratching etc.
I get to see a lot of guitars as they arrive this side of the Atlantic and that isn't unusual. Should have been sorted before it went for a media walkabout though.They also said that the bridge on their strat was incorrectly aligned, which would piss me off,
TelePaul said:I got this e mail back from Fender today:
Hi Paul,
Thanks for your email.
The Highway One guitars are not finished in a poly urethane lacquer. They are currently finished in a Nitro Cellulose lacquer and prior to the upgrade it was finished in a similar lacquer, classed as 'Satin' finish. It has similar properties to the Nitro Cellulose finish which in itself is much softer than a hard polyurethane.
In light of this, it will wear much quicker than a Poly lacquer will. Depending on how the guitar is cleaned or treated or how often it is used, you will begin to notice wear on the guitar.
If you are thinking of having it resprayed, I would recommend a soft lacquer if you want to keep it original. Alternatively, you could have it finished in a hard Polyurethane.
I hope this helps,
Regards,
Jamie Latty
Fender GBI Services Coordinator
Interesting...