diy argosy console

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well theres 96 channels actually as its a split desk on each console two sets of a/b inputs. as why, well i do a lot of surround and post production work and im also a signed artist and im old school so i like to be able to have channels for each of my instruments also i like to feed effects into channels then back into fx returns etc.. this makes for some mad noizes.

update...

ok i have put the inserts in and also attatched the rack strips and trial fitted some gear in there.. looks very very nice.. pictures to come tomorrow, i just had a meal and im stuffed!
 
nicely explained, but have you ever used all of your channels simultaneously? also, i noticed that pk1 had two large desks, but both of budget quality.... personally if i were spending the money on buying two mx9000's, i would get 1 decent quality desk instead... thats my main question for asking why pk1 had so many channels... to see if he was doing it to look good or if he actually needed all those channels...
 
well, I can't speak for PK1, only for myself. I've never used all the input channels at the same time.

I have used about 3/4 of them however, mixing 5.1
 
me.. trying to look good?? nope dont need to.. ; )

lemme see multi miked drum kits, brass sections, vocals, guitars, strings... when you start doing mixes at that level then you need that amount of channels, especially when i have to dump it all into my two radar multitrack units..


yes i use those channels, im used to using bigger ssl and neve consoles, also if you remember the music news there was a big legal battle between mackie and behringer as the mx8000a is a straight copy of the 24-8 console they make, it also has a copy of the vlz circuits in there, as for signal to noize ratio they are very good at what they do. i also have quite a few motu 2408 interfaces and i also patch intruments directly into those when i want to go digital. also the mx8000a like the mackies are expandable you can use 4 units together in series by linking them via the expansion ports and attenuating the input ratios by feeding a test tone into each channel through the series. i have two so i can link them into one console.. also being two they are portable... you ever trtied to lift a damn ssl or neve console!!!!!!!! :eek::eek::eek:

also the benefits of the channels is that i can have one or two different mixes up on the desks at the same time.


i also have two mackie d8b consoles that i use for final editing and a pair of 02r consoles also. these are all interlinked via patchbays and digital connections to each other

as for budget desks, yes they were.. i paid 200 for them both... i then rebuilt the psu's as they were prone to overheating , but you have to remember it isnt the tools you use but the skills you have that make a good track.. if your mix aint worth a damn then all the equipment in the world wont help. its the same with monitors you can have the best monitors in the world but its standard to play them on ns10's.. if its shit on them its shit everywhere else.. if you make a mix good on them or a set of auratones then its fine..
 
a couple of people have asked my by way of pm if i can help them out on a 90 series console design.. no problems it is basically the same format however the difference is that the steel legs are different, the unit is designed for larger format desks than the 70 series, so i would say to those of you who are thinking of making one of these, dont go for the 90 series as there are more fixings required and a lot more maths. i can however draw plans but it wont be for free thats for sure..

the 70 series which im making is easy to make and the results speak for themself.. this units only takes two sheets of mdf to make and minimal metal work for the legs..

let me finish and the plans will be available for you all :D
 
all "rep power" means is that someone on this forum "voted" that they liked one of your threads. It's a nice way of others saying thank you for sharing. If you click at the top of this page... "user CP" somewhere in that menu will be who voted for ya, and whatever comments if they made any. It's a cool feature actually, I've received some really nice comments here and there and it's nice to be appreciated.
 
ah i see , doesnt say who did it though, but whoever did thanx for that ;) nice to be appreciated. :D
 
ok piccys time..

well heres the insert being marked out, the line is where the top of the rack strip will site the gap from the top is the width of a rack ear usually 3 or 4 mm down.
 
next we fit the rack strips on the sides and on the uprights

when offering the rack strips up it is best to hold them in place then using a fine tipped pencil mark the screwholes and then centerpunch them before screwing down
 
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ok and now for a test fit using some rack units from the front and side, notice the rack units fronts are now flush with the inserts.
 
and sideways, also the space just above the patchbays will be fitted with a filler piece of 25mm mdf this will close that gap up nicely
 
I just want to know how the peices the mixers are sitting on are supported...:)
 
magic.............


oh and a pair of steel legs... but these legs have to balanced out to take .. the consoles weight and the users weight whilst leaning on the arm rest.. if you dont calculate that in then the unit will topple forward and crush your legs..

legs .. post number 4 with front and rear panels on post 5 you can see into the unit

12 shows you the front where the bolts go through
 
pk1 said:
ah i see , doesnt say who did it though, but whoever did thanx for that ;) nice to be appreciated. :D

You're welcome :D
 
pk1... i understand the legs. but the flat panel on the front... how is that attached? What is used to keep that from snapping off when someone leans their weight on it? Is it just worm screws (like in pre-fabed particle board desks)? This was why in my modified argosy design i went with 2x2 to support the "arm-rest"; I couldn't figure out how to keep the board from getting snapped off.

Thanks
dc

Thanks
 
ok if you look at the diagram below it gives a basic understanding of the arm rest shelf.

it is basically a cantilever design although it has an under support.

the side panel which is say 20 inches in height has a 22mm section cut out on the front ( the thickness of the material used) in there drops the armrest shelf, also the back edgee of the cut out section is in line with the rear of the front panel so the back edge of the armrest shelf sits its full length on the front panels top edge , also there are pieces of the side panels which comeout a few inches for the sides to sit on. This allows the shelf to have rear and side support.

when the arm rest is attatched it is fiex to the leading edge of the shelf and also has rear fixings this in turn makes the shelf very very solid and can take the weight placed on it. the red parts are the fixings

i hope this helps..
 
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