Copper and Brass

  • Thread starter Thread starter Michael Jones
  • Start date Start date
Looking good, Michael. I've been curious about your progress this summer (and wondering how the heat would affect you; now we know).

Here is a possible solution for your 703 installation. Wrap some duct tape around the edges (kind of an edge banding), then use some self-adhesive velcro stuck to the duct tape and mate it on the 1x2 backing strips. As long as the duct tape wraps around both the top and bottom edges it should hold the weight of the 703 fine. I would only tape the edges that actually need to "attach" to the 1x2 strips (the long edges it looks like to me).


Anyway, looks like fun times ahead!!

Cheers,
Darryl.....
 
You could use a capped nail or even a rofing nail to hold the 703 in place since it will be covered with cloth. Why not just let the cloth hold it in place. No one will be able to mess with it since it'll be between the 2 glass panes right? Friction fit it and forget it.
 
Here's how I plan to cover the 703 in cloth.

I'll cut out the fabric in a big rectangle. (Sized to fit)
Then I'll cut out "squares" from each of the corners.
This will leave me with.... tabs, so to speak.
Then those tabs will get folded over and ironed, so that there's a nice, crisp seam there.
Then I'll sew the corners together.
Basically, what I'll have now is a box with no bottom. Or, kind of like a "shoe box" lid.
The 703 will fit snuggly into that "box".
I'll probably even use some cardboard batting around the edges, to keep that nice crisp line. You know... like posterboard.
To secure the fabric to the 703, I'll either use a spray adhesive, or those... iron on strips... (its like tape, but you iron it and it gets hot and adheres to both surfaces.)
Steam it all in place, and you have a nice, tight fitting fabric.

So, you see, its imperitive that the fabric goes on before the 703 panel meets its final installment place.
So, it'd be difficult to use any kind of "nails" or anything like that to secure it in place, because you don't want those going through the fabric.
Even if there was a way to put the nails in before the fabric goes on, I think you'd still see a "ghost" image of it through the fabric.

I'm afraid even with a tight friction fit, the panel could work lose through vibrations.
Wouldn't that be a bitch to have the top part fall down inside the window?!

I like the velcro idea. I think I can make that work!

The rockwool came in... second week of May, I think it was; three - four weeks later than it was supposed to be in.
Then shortly after that school was out, and I wanted to spend all of the summer time I could with my boys, plus, we were traveling a lot over the summer. That, and the fact that it just got soooo hot in there, really put a damper on progress.
It wasn't a complete down-time though.
I managed to get the wall plates built, all the connections soldered, and all the connections tested with audio passing through them, as well as the internal studio audio wiring done. There just wasn't an awfull lot happening on the actual building.

But I tell you what, it was a good break. You know how it is, you do this stuff, day in and day out, every spare moment, and it gets overwhelming!
Sometimes its a good thing to just walk away from it for a while.
 
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Michael, if you are looking for a system to mount your 703, check these out. I think with a little forethough, these system extrusions will aford a FAR SUPERIOR and professional look, AND you can change the look with minimul fuss. AND you can mount the 703 prior to covering it. From what I understand, some of these are very reasonably priced. Plus the extrusions can let you do designs that are unthinkable any other way. Anyway, just a thought. Here are a few.
http://www.levolux.com/PDF_Files/Fabric Walling.pdf
http://www.forman.com.au/ds_070_fabritrak.pdf
http://www.snaptex.com/featuresbenefits.html
fitZ :)
 
Hey, btw Michael, did you ever come up with a plan for the revealed wood panels?
fitZ
 
Fitz - Those extrusions are pretty cool. I think you'd have to definitely plan ahead for incorporating those, though. When I did my walls I built simple wood frames around the 2x4 ft fiberglass panels, friction fit the panels on the wall (for the ceiling I drove in some 2" brads with homemade duct tape washers to hold it in place), then stretched the fabric over the wood frames and stapled it in place. Some of it actually looks good, but some of it looks like a rank amatuer did it (which is true!!). It works and I'm the only one who spends much time in there anyway, so it'll do.

Michael - I'm sure you've thought of this but just wanted to point out that anything you adhere directly to the 703 will have the probability of coming loose over time. The 703 layers can separate (take a scrap piece and grab the tip of a corner and see if you can pull away a ply from it). That means that whatever you attach to it needs to wrap around top and bottom edges to ensure it won't eventually cause a separation of the material.

That being said, and how you described what you intend to do with the fabric, I think it should be fairly easy to pre-attach the velcro strips to the wrap-around portion of the fabric after you iron the creases in but before you finish the wrap of the 703. Then you just install the opposite part of the velcro in your frame and gently stuff your assembled decorative acoustic panels in place. With the velcro securely attached to the fabric, which wraps around the panel, it should provide enough gripping power to hold stuff in place indefinitely.

Glad to see you back at it (and Fitz - how's your project coming? haven't heard much there lately, either!!). I've been slowly getting a few low paying clients recently that are providing just enough income to allow me to finish buying the parts I need for my computer.

Cheers,
Darryl.....
 
Fitz - those extrusions are very cool! I'll have to study on them some more.
For the revealed wood panels, I haven't come up with a detailed plan yet, but your details that you posted go a long way towards helping me understand as to how it needs to be done.

DDev - Yeah, I know the 703 will separate, so I'll have the fabric come around a portion of the back side.
It'll be interesting when I can actually start working on that stuff. I'll need to get the place sheetrocked first.
 
Glad to see you back at it (and Fitz - how's your project coming? haven't heard much there lately, either!!). I've been slowly getting a few low paying clients recently that are providing just enough income to allow me to finish buying the parts I need for my computer.
Click to expand...

Hey Darryl! How are you? Glad to see your studio is generating some paying customers. Mine is generating dust. :D Ha! Actually, I use my console as my CAD station more than anything. I've had to really concentrate on getting my shop in production status. Finally guit working for other people, so now I've got work in the shop. But you know how working for yourself is :rolleyes: I work untill I can't work no more at night. :D Been no time for the studio stuff. :( My studio is pretty much for me only, so there is no rush. I did make some special wall cleats to mount some of the extrusions from Snap Tex. I designed the side walls to cover 703 in a "artsy fartsy":p fashion, but the fabric will be at different depths to appear 3d in conjunction with Stylmark aluminum extrusions, colored plex, laminates, and other types of things that will actually look like a "diffuser" sculpture. Other places will be diffuser elements that also use the Stylmark aluminum extrusions as the wells and splines in a ceiling diffuser behind the monitor position just past the absorber "cloud". Anyway, thanks for saying "hi!". Good luck with your studio Darryl.
fitZ
 
Michael Jones said:
OK. The more I think about this, the more I realize I'm going to have to use 3/8" pipe.

I have to tee into 1/2" pipe.
Then reduce to 3/8".
That's simple enough to do with pipe fittings, but to try and do that with tubing fittings is going to result in one of those... "plumber's nightmares". You know.... where you end up with a bunch of different fittings....

Here's a pic of my own private little hell.
:D
Click to expand...
Mike,if the tubing that you have is labeled 3/8,and it does not fit the
1/2x3/8 reducer in the pic,then it is HVAC tubing,and is not compat-
able with domestic water fittings.
If I were you,I would use ridgid, type-L, 3/8 copper pipe.If the humidifier
does'nt have a shut off,you should place one in line that will be easy to
get to ,should the need ever arise to replace it.
 
Thanks Shep.
Yeah, I had to go with 3/8" PIPE.
But its in!!! All the joints are sweated in, the pipe is "bracketed" into place, and the pipe insulation is on.

I have an air pressure test on it right now, and its holding strong with 15psi.
Now I can finish up the last little bit of that nasty rockwool, and call for an inspection on the insulation.

Then its on to sheetrock and it'll FINALLY, finally, finally START to look like something.
 
Sheetrock, then paint, then trim, then flooring, then final electrical, then final plumbing, then acoustic treatments, then moving equipment in, then ........... :) :) :)
 
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