bought me one of these

The two pivot point studs can be raised up or down. You will need to check intonation and spring tension subsequent to adjusting as any floating bridge is more fickle with such things..Ste the fine tuners as well.. TBH they are a PIA but once you get it down it's relatively simple to do. Set the action first with the pivot studs, adjust the fine tuners, adjust the springs. If you are changing string gauge then you may need to add or remove springs or adjust the spring tension round the back. Finally adjust intonation.
 
I have adjusted plenty of Floyds after string changes, but never had to raise or lower it. So, thanx my man, this guitars action is a bit low for me and it has started buzzing since arrival. I would guess that is the difference in climate from Ca. to N.Y.? I will probably put a heavier set of strings on it eventually.
 
If you go with heavier strings you will probably want to add a spring to the back and slacken off the retaining screws rather than stick with the stock set up and push the retaining screws all the way back. As you will know as an engineer, the more you can spread the load to the middle of the continuum the better in the long run.

If you are setting up from scratch with new strings, then the best way I have found is to get a wooden wedge in behind the bridge to hold the block roughly where you want it and then tension the strings to pitch. You then set the springs then so the wedge just holds in place and you have the right balance point and you can move on to saddles and pivot point adjustments. Rinse and repeat until you get where you want.
 
intonating a floyd is always fun

then i always end up palming the fine tuners

then i try my double stop bends and i remember why i hate floyd rose
 
muttley600 said:
If you go with heavier strings you will probably want to add a spring to the back and slacken off the retaining screws rather than stick with the stock set up and push the retaining screws all the way back. As you will know as an engineer, the more you can spread the load to the middle of the continuum the better in the long run.

If you are setting up from scratch with new strings, then the best way I have found is to get a wooden wedge in behind the bridge to hold the block roughly where you want it and then tension the strings to pitch. You then set the springs then so the wedge just holds in place and you have the right balance point and you can move on to saddles and pivot point adjustments. Rinse and repeat until you get where you want.
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they sent me wrenches and an extra spring. Have changed gauges on them before and have never had a problem getting them back where they belong. I don't dive bomb.
 
dragonworks said:
they sent me wrenches and an extra spring. Have changed gauges on them before and have never had a problem getting them back where they belong. I don't dive bomb.
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You'll be fine then. I like to keep it so the work done by the each spring is minimal so if it will take it I'll put an extra spring in and let the holding screw back off. YMMV all it has to do essentially is to allow the bridge to return to its rest position as quickly, smoothly and accurately as possible.
 
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