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BigPapaFly
New member
My local GC doesn't carry the SP C1, which I've hear good things about, so the guy recomends the AT3035. Seem cool? I know nothing of these things. Thanks for any help.
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tdukex
Man of the Muse
I don't think the 3035 is very highly regarded on this board. The 4033 ($299) is, however. You can order the C1 ($229) on-line. The Marshall V67 ($149) is also praised here often. Many compare its sound to the C1.
Always be highly suspicious of anything a salesperson at GC tells you.
Always be highly suspicious of anything a salesperson at GC tells you.
heylow
New member
WARNING.....
....I don't own these mics but since no one else but tdukex has responded, I DO feel confident enough to point in a direction....
I can honestly say I haven't heard anything but bad or not so shiny opinions on the lower end AT stuff. Many folks, however, seem quite happy with the C1 and the MXL V67.
I guess my opinion would be to either hold out and go a step up from here or get a little more bang/buck/budget with the C1 or the MXL.
I'm kind of in the same situation...I got a couple of lower end mics and I'm wrestling with the idea of something like the C1 for a different color or stepping up to maybe an AT4033 or even a SHureKSM32 or Rode NTK. Damn I hate to save.....
Just my .02
heylow
Rock Jedi/Indie Snob
www.heylowsoundsystem.net
....I don't own these mics but since no one else but tdukex has responded, I DO feel confident enough to point in a direction....
I can honestly say I haven't heard anything but bad or not so shiny opinions on the lower end AT stuff. Many folks, however, seem quite happy with the C1 and the MXL V67.
I guess my opinion would be to either hold out and go a step up from here or get a little more bang/buck/budget with the C1 or the MXL.
I'm kind of in the same situation...I got a couple of lower end mics and I'm wrestling with the idea of something like the C1 for a different color or stepping up to maybe an AT4033 or even a SHureKSM32 or Rode NTK. Damn I hate to save.....
Just my .02
heylow
Rock Jedi/Indie Snob
www.heylowsoundsystem.net
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BigPapaFly
New member
Damn! I should have posted earlier! I went and got the AT3035 tonight. I also got a 40 dollar 1/4 inch cord and of course the phantom power supply. The guy at Guitar Center forgot to put my new 1/4 cord in (???!!!)...AND, he gave me a bogus adapter. So I tried my 12v Yamaha keyboard adapter and it didn't work. Then I put the Yamaha 12v back in the Yamaha and it was fried. The I tried another adapter in the Yamaha and it worked. Then I tried another adapter (I have a few 12v adapters around) and it didn't fit right.
So anyway, the AT3035 lools real cool sitting in it's shock mount, but now I have no mic and no keyboard.
Soon...very soon, all of this shit is going right THROUGH the god damned window.
So anyway, the AT3035 lools real cool sitting in it's shock mount, but now I have no mic and no keyboard.
Soon...very soon, all of this shit is going right THROUGH the god damned window.
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Randy Yell
New member
I dont have the 3035 but I bought the 3525 for $150(discontinued)and I love it.I gotta say the only other LD cond I have to compare it to is the Marshall 2001p(which sucks).The Audio Technica sounds much more natural than the Marshall with no harshness(when I first got the 2001p I thought it was crisp sounding.Now it just sounds harsh).8th Street Music still has some 3525's for $150.
Prism
New member
The 3525 isn't a large diaphragm mic, but I still like the way it sounds for the most part. (anything I dislike about this mic may just be because of my poor preamps)...I would take a 3525 over a 3035....it's a better value in my opinion.
Isaiah
Isaiah
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BigPapaFly
New member
thanks for the input
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Randy Yell
New member
Isaiah,I did have questions about the size of the diaphram in the 3525.What I can see it does look to be a medium size but I got no info.I do like the mic irregardless though,I think it has a clear and natural sound.
skippy
New member
Those GC phantom power adapters appear to be a real problem. One of my collaborators bought one to power his mics, so that he could record with his 788. GC sells them without the wall-wart power supply as a matter of course: that's an added-cost *option*, according to their web site, for another 10 bucks. He brought it into my room, and I loaned him one of my 12V wall-warts, without knowing what it was for. Unfortunately, the adapter was set up for the wrong polarity (positive on the center pin), so the phantom box *instantly* fried.
He took it back and exchanged it for another one. Tried another 12V adapter when he got it home, which was _also_ set up for the wrong polarity: smoke 2.
He took the carcass back in and after much argument, exchanged it for a Behringer 602, which is good enough for his purposes.
Here's what I know about the GC power adapter, which is actually a Rolls PB23: A) they appear to be sold incomplete as a matter of course, and B) I've never yet heard of one actually working, as a result. According to the Rolls web site, it is supposed to come with its own wallwart. The schematic is on their site. It's just a very simple voltage quadrupler.
Regrettably, they also designed it to use a pretty nonstandard polarity. It wants the center pin to be *negative*, and the outer ring to be positive- be forewarned, and forget using most common adapters. They didn't even design in protection diodes to make the thing reverse polarity proof. It just has a simple crowbar diode, so the question is whether the board or the wallwart will smoke first! So you have a greater-than-50% chance of destroying the damned thing the first time you use it, unless you use great care in picking your wallwart. Problem is, most normal human beings don't take the time to read the schematic first before trying to plug and play...
In my humble opinion, it is junk. You would do better to get a small mixer, or a standalone preamp with phantom built in- like the Midiman Audio Buddy. The only problem with the Audio Buddy is it only puts out 24V phantom- so it may not properly run many mics...
He took it back and exchanged it for another one. Tried another 12V adapter when he got it home, which was _also_ set up for the wrong polarity: smoke 2.
He took the carcass back in and after much argument, exchanged it for a Behringer 602, which is good enough for his purposes.
Here's what I know about the GC power adapter, which is actually a Rolls PB23: A) they appear to be sold incomplete as a matter of course, and B) I've never yet heard of one actually working, as a result. According to the Rolls web site, it is supposed to come with its own wallwart. The schematic is on their site. It's just a very simple voltage quadrupler.
Regrettably, they also designed it to use a pretty nonstandard polarity. It wants the center pin to be *negative*, and the outer ring to be positive- be forewarned, and forget using most common adapters. They didn't even design in protection diodes to make the thing reverse polarity proof. It just has a simple crowbar diode, so the question is whether the board or the wallwart will smoke first! So you have a greater-than-50% chance of destroying the damned thing the first time you use it, unless you use great care in picking your wallwart. Problem is, most normal human beings don't take the time to read the schematic first before trying to plug and play...
In my humble opinion, it is junk. You would do better to get a small mixer, or a standalone preamp with phantom built in- like the Midiman Audio Buddy. The only problem with the Audio Buddy is it only puts out 24V phantom- so it may not properly run many mics...
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Randy Yell
New member
I am not sure that the Audio Buddy only puts out 24v phantom power.I have one and it has no trouble at all powering my 3525 which is supposed to take 48v only.Where did you get the 24v number?When I got my Buddy ther was no info anywhere on the voltage and I have been to their website and there was no info there either.There was a thread on the Audio Buddy at Harmony Central and there was a question on the phantom power and other people responded whose mics claimed to need 48v to run and they ALL said they had no problem powering their mics.I think it may not deliver 48v but it would have to be much more than 24v otherwise it would not power my mic.I highly reccomend the Audio Buddy for a cheap preamp.Much cleaner than the Art"Tube"MP which IMO sucks,BTW,Ive read that the Art's phantom power doesnt deliver 48v either(although Art claims it does).
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minusone
New member
I bought the AT 3035 back in sept. (as my patriotic duty, i was a consumer and bought that and a few other little thingies for the studio).
I am very pleased with the 3035. I've had some experience in commercial studios with u87's and a u67, and yes, you aren't going to hear anything close to that in a lower-end LDC mic... but the 3035, when plugged into my presonus bluetube pre sounds really warm, very "present" and serves as my primary vocal mic (recording my girlfriend's voice has always been a challenge because she has pretty good range, and it was a pain using smaller mics to capture that).
I think, like most LDC's, the shorter the signal path, the better. For the best results on this mic... i plug it into the mic-pre, then run that straight into my MDR (I have the macke 32x8 which has pretty decent pre's but I noticed when I run the 3035 into the board it is "thinner" -- which I like for some acoustic guitar stuff... which this mic is also good for).
I am very pleased with the 3035. I've had some experience in commercial studios with u87's and a u67, and yes, you aren't going to hear anything close to that in a lower-end LDC mic... but the 3035, when plugged into my presonus bluetube pre sounds really warm, very "present" and serves as my primary vocal mic (recording my girlfriend's voice has always been a challenge because she has pretty good range, and it was a pain using smaller mics to capture that).
I think, like most LDC's, the shorter the signal path, the better. For the best results on this mic... i plug it into the mic-pre, then run that straight into my MDR (I have the macke 32x8 which has pretty decent pre's but I noticed when I run the 3035 into the board it is "thinner" -- which I like for some acoustic guitar stuff... which this mic is also good for).
skippy
New member
I stand corrected about the Audio Buddy's phantom voltage!
I just went downstairs, dusted mine off and fired it up, and measured the no-load voltage at 39.7v. Looks like they are using something like a voltage quadrupler on the raw 9v supply from their wall-wart. So you're right- it does indeed put out more than 24V. However, it definitely *does not* put out a full 48V, so you may run into situations where some mics won't work at all- and where others (that use the phantom voltage to directly polarize the diaphragms) have reduced output and possibly altered frequency response.
I know that when I tried an Oktava MC012 with it, the results weren't as pleasing as when I power the mic with a full, solid 48V supply. That's one example of a mic design that just uses the phantom voltage to polarize the diaphragm. It certainly _works_, and is usable- but it's not quite as nice as when it's got the stiff supply, especially in the LF...
Sorry about that. I misremembered what I'd measured it at when I first got it (GC was giving them away for free with some mics back in the summer). Mea culpa.
Now I just have to figure out what chunk of gear I measured that _was_ 24V...
I just went downstairs, dusted mine off and fired it up, and measured the no-load voltage at 39.7v. Looks like they are using something like a voltage quadrupler on the raw 9v supply from their wall-wart. So you're right- it does indeed put out more than 24V. However, it definitely *does not* put out a full 48V, so you may run into situations where some mics won't work at all- and where others (that use the phantom voltage to directly polarize the diaphragms) have reduced output and possibly altered frequency response.
I know that when I tried an Oktava MC012 with it, the results weren't as pleasing as when I power the mic with a full, solid 48V supply. That's one example of a mic design that just uses the phantom voltage to polarize the diaphragm. It certainly _works_, and is usable- but it's not quite as nice as when it's got the stiff supply, especially in the LF...
Sorry about that. I misremembered what I'd measured it at when I first got it (GC was giving them away for free with some mics back in the summer). Mea culpa.
Now I just have to figure out what chunk of gear I measured that _was_ 24V...
