another one for Muttley or Light

joeym

joeym

New member
Hey guys,
when you oil your guitar necks, do you apply the stuff on and wipe it off immediately or do let it seep in the wood a little first? I oiled my necks yesterday and waited about 10 minutes before wiping the excess off. I used Linseed oil, 'cos my luthier uses it and said it was pretty good. The necks feel wonderful now.

Cheers
Joe
 
Necks should have a hard finish, but if you mean the fingerboard it is best to let it sit for a few minutes. If it goes dry in any areas, reapply. But that's only really a big deal if the board is really dry, or if it's the first time you've done it. Most of the time I put it on, wait 10-30 seconds, and wipe it off.

Also, though boiled linseed oil is fine, for odder reasons I prefer either straight mineral oil, or lemon oil (which should just be mineral oil with a bit of citrus oil added to make it smell nice).


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Light said:
Necks should have a hard finish, but if you mean the fingerboard it is best to let it sit for a few minutes. If it goes dry in any areas, reapply. But that's only really a big deal if the board is really dry, or if it's the first time you've done it. Most of the time I put it on, wait 10-30 seconds, and wipe it off.

Also, though boiled linseed oil is fine, for odder reasons I prefer either straight mineral oil, or lemon oil (which should just be mineral oil with a bit of citrus oil added to make it smell nice).


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
Click to expand...

I meant the fingerboard, of course.....;)
It's the first time I've done it. Especially my 2 acoustics seemed to need it real bad, the fingerboards were bone dry and one of them is about 25 years old and never been oiled! It was like giving it a drink in the desert......
You're right about about the smell, linseed oil tends to have a particular one, although I don't feel it stinks. Reminds me of home....:D
Thanks for the advice, Light!

Stevie,
that's a pretty interesting link there. Amazing how many different kinds of oil people use. Thanx!
 
Wood will only absorb oil to a certain point at which point it is saturated and it will accept no more. That includes water. Wood contains water in two different ways, bound water and unbound water. Bound water is water that is held inside the cells and is what keeps the plant alive, unbound water exists between the cells and simply sits there as a result of the tree's environment. Once a piece of wood has been seasoned all the bound water is lost and can never be replaced. The unbound water is also lost but CAN be replaced. It is this water that effects the stability of timber, and how timber absorbs moisture and moves in service.

The ability to absorb unbound water can be inhibited by using a varnish, or lacquer of some sort. On an unfinished timber an oil may be used to seal against excessive moisture absorption. You can not force too much oil into the timber. You can trap or more likel;y slow down the rate at which moisture already there takes to release itself. For this reason make sure that the fingerboard is well acclimatised to the general environment of your area or region before applying it. You wont cause long term damage if you don't.

It won't cause any damage if you leave the oil on over night simply wipe off any excess when your done. As I've said you can't get too much in there especially on rosewood or ebony which we generally see on f/b's. Always use a non drying oil the best of which are the mineral oils (lemon oil) or at a pinch extra virgin olive oil. Drying oils won't harm the timber but can make your fingerboard sticky and leave behind unwanted gunk as the oil dries. Mineral oil will be lost from the wood over time just as water is so you will need to repeat as often as you like. Once or twice a years is normally enough. Once again you'll find it hard to over condition the wood.
 
muttley600 said:
Wood will only absorb oil to a certain point at which point it is saturated and it will accept no more. That includes water. Wood contains water in two different ways, bound water and unbound water. Bound water is water that is held inside the cells and is what keeps the plant alive, unbound water exists between the cells and simply sits there as a result of the tree's environment. Once a piece of wood has been seasoned all the bound water is lost and can never be replaced. The unbound water is also lost but CAN be replaced. It is this water that effects the stability of timber, and how timber absorbs moisture and moves in service.

The ability to absorb unbound water can be inhibited by using a varnish, or lacquer of some sort. On an unfinished timber an oil may be used to seal against excessive moisture absorption. You can not force too much oil into the timber. You can trap or more likel;y slow down the rate at which moisture already there takes to release itself. For this reason make sure that the fingerboard is well acclimatised to the general environment of your area or region before applying it. You wont cause long term damage if you don't.

It won't cause any damage if you leave the oil on over night simply wipe off any excess when your done. As I've said you can't get too much in there especially on rosewood or ebony which we generally see on f/b's. Always use a non drying oil the best of which are the mineral oils (lemon oil) or at a pinch extra virgin olive oil. Drying oils won't harm the timber but can make your fingerboard sticky and leave behind unwanted gunk as the oil dries. Mineral oil will be lost from the wood over time just as water is so you will need to repeat as often as you like. Once or twice a years is normally enough. Once again you'll find it hard to over condition the wood.
Click to expand...

Great info! Thanx Muttley!
Cheers
Joe
 
I oil my fingerboards whenever I change strings. That way I don't have to remember when I last did it. I had never used olive oil until Muttley suggested it but I find I prefer it for no reason I can explain.
 
wow,

Thanks Muttley, light, and Joey for asking the question. I think I've subconsciously wondered about the interval of time for a while, but never thought to ask. Also, if you forget to oil your board for an extended period, can this cause any damage? I have a poor Alvarez acoustic that I think I may have neglected for about a year:o
James
 
didgijimmy said:
Thanks Muttley, light, and Joey for asking the question. I think I've subconsciously wondered about the interval of time for a while, but never thought to ask. Also, if you forget to oil your board for an extended period, can this cause any damage? I have a poor Alvarez acoustic that I think I may have neglected for about a year:o
James
Click to expand...

No, I have rarely if ever seen a f/b or setup problem as a direct result of under conditioning the f/b. It's a minor detail in many ways as far as the integrity of the instrument goes. It can be an important one in regard to playability, maintenance, sort of like hoovering your house. Don't do it and it won't cause your house to burn down, but do it regularly and your carpets will last a good deal longer and be more enjoyable to use. You'll get better value from your setups and general maintenance if you do it a few times a year. If in doubt ask your local tech what he recommends for your area.. Here in the UK three or four time a year is ample.

Only in extreme conditions and unique circumstances would I expect it to be a major problem.
 
Try as I might, I just can't help myself- gotta point out:

muttley600 said:
Wood will only absorb oil to a certain point at which point it is saturated and it will accept no more. That includes water.
Click to expand...

WATER is not an OIL...

Yeah, I know, I know- splitting hairs.
 
stevieb said:
Try as I might, I just can't help myself- gotta point out:



WATER is not an OIL...

Yeah, I know, I know- splitting hairs.
Click to expand...

Yeh the point is that wood will absorb both Oil and water.

Watch out because I'm going to watching your posts like a hawk now.;)
 
Dry as a bone!

I stopped putting anything on my fretboards and strings a long time ago. They only thing I do to my neck, with the strings attached, is frequently bathe the entire length in shower to shower powder. I rub it with a clean dry cotton cloth. It is pure bliss! My action is silky smooth fast with no oily, greasy, string dulling residue. It absorbs all acid, salt, grease, beer, or any other funk. Since I have been doing this my strings do not tarnish and last a long time. Any thing you put on your strings, even a damp cloth, gets inside the windings and clogs and corrodes them. I have studied this effect for years and I am convinced. Try wiping your strings with any king of liquid and they will be dull after. I dont think fretboards need anything but to be polished by your fingers.
Victory Pete:D
 
Freedom of speech?

I thought these forums were for people to express their opinions. obviously you are one of those pompus know- it -alls. :mad:
 
Victory Pete said:
I stopped putting anything on my fretboards and strings a long time ago. They only thing I do to my neck, with the strings attached, is frequently bathe the entire length in shower to shower powder.:D
Click to expand...

I agree completely and often just take a handful of sand and rub it over the length of the fretboard. In a pinch I use whatever is in the vacuum cleaner bag as it has been filtered down to fine particulate. When you force grit into the pores of the wood, you no longer have to worry about the moisture. The tone becomes much more brutalz. I also recommend using sand to lubricate your pots and switches.
 
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