Another Akai MG1212.......

[passtudio9]

There is no pin for the reel to go?
What a puzzle...
play part #4 move to the right, FFW to the right and RW to the left.
The way it's this reel just stay in the center, I'm really not sure what could make it move.
Anyone got an Idea?
Thanks...

It's a 1214 but I think it the same Mecha block

View attachment 105371

The pin were this part #4 goes (axis) was kind of sticky so didn't move freely, so I did clean it up and lightly lube it, It move OK now but the tension is still weak for the tape to move.
I'm going to put everything back together now.

 

[ladewd]

I’ve seen some severe damage where batteries leak. My advice would be to clean it up as best as you can then run some wires where the traces go. The acid in the battery is a gift that keeps on giving. Over time it will eat away on the copper traces on the board. That’s why I advise to run wire along the damaged traces on the PC hoard. Good luck with it. It’s sounds like you’re on the right track.

 

[passtudio9]

Hello all,
I just changed the idle tire and put a new tension spring on part #4.
Got the transport working great now. RW FF PLAY

my only problem is the Pinch roller that kind of worn out.
I could play my tape but it's scary.

Anyone has a spare Pinch roller to sell?

or any idea how to make one?

Thanks

 

[Dreverb]

have you tried cleaning it with hot water and dishwashing soap? sometimes it helps. It helped on mine...
Anyway, the size is the same as some others VCRs.
I think is... but not sure 100%
outer diameter = 12
shaft diameter = 2
height = 18

 

[D0k]

I recently acquired one of these for $20 (I KNOW) and just got it home from getting serviced at VST. What's not apparent to me from the manual or looking over the machine, is how do I fully erase a tape? I see that there's an erase head, but the manual doesn't seem to indicate how to use it. Thanks!

 

[Dreverb]

I recently acquired one of these for $20 (I KNOW) and just got it home from getting serviced at VST. What's not apparent to me from the manual or looking over the machine, is how do I fully erase a tape? I see that there's an erase head, but the manual doesn't seem to indicate how to use it. Thanks!

Select all tracks, on middle mode (track, not line or mic) and press record.
The guys at VST, did they gave you any additional or usefull info you could share about maintenance, tapes or related to this machines? Thanks anyway.

 

[D0k]

Select all tracks, on middle mode (track, not line or mic) and press record.
The guys at VST, did they gave you any additional or usefull info you could share about maintenance, tapes or related to this machines? Thanks anyway.

Thanks! Is that actually using the erase head or is it just recording over what's there with null info? Dave at VST did go over with me about the importance of cleaning and demagnetizing the surfaces. He also related that there has always been a problem with tape shedding with these. All of the tapes I have are used so we shall see how it goes.

 

[Dreverb]

Hello again. Trying to repair one MG14D.
It is stuck on that loop that goes from eject to stop and eject again. It don't enter stop mode. I think the gear cam it is aligned... any idea? Thanks

 

[Fte]

Hello,



I recently bought an Akai MG 1214 for cheap, with fine working channels and mixer, however the transport is not working, and there are several locations that need repair



I really enjoyed this threat, as it really helped me out to understand the unit and its common issues, and it really appears to be the most detailed on the net so far.



So, even the last entry was a while ago, I thought I’ll give it a try to ask, if some of you might have some suggestions to some challenging questions:

1. There was a small tile rattling around in the chassy (See picture below), wich I belive should be a resistor with 200k ohms, but I‘m not shure. I really couldn‘t figure out its original pcb and location, and just running the unit without re-soldering the piece might be risky. I took advantage of the Service-manual, however, so far I couldn‘t find anything, I‘m unsure about it‘s precise description name. Does somebody know what to look for exactly, or does someone even know its location?

1. 2.Transport section: the ‚eject action slider‘ is bend, similar like in j. Harv’s case. But in addition its broken into 3 pieces (see picture below). Is there any way to fix this? I thought of three options for that: a) buying a spare-part, which seems really hard to find at the moment b) welding the pieces together(?) and after that maybe straighten the slider by warming it up, like it was described a few posts earlier? C) give it to someone with a 3D printer(?) Anyhow it‘s just a few ideas that came up, by someone who‘s still on a very beginners side (and can‘t weld.)

There are 2 more bigger issues, but I leave it for that by the moment. (The main white cog-wheel’s position and a further soldering challange and a re-tiering of a new idler-tire).



Ok, I‘m very exited about any tips and suggestions, thank you very much and have a nice weekend!!



Fabian

 

[il biggo]

Hello Fte,
I am currently (that is, I have been for the last year) trying to resurrect my 1212 - this thread would have been SO useful if only I had decided to search the internet instead of fumbling with the machine. That eject arm has broken and I painfully replicated it with my 3d printer. Unexpectedly, the replacement works
Thus, if you still need it I can drop the STL somewhere for you to download.
I printed it with PLA but I will probably make another in ABS or some other material. The arm is under strong tension 90% of the time (terrible engineering there), so the sturdier the better.

Oh, and hello to the forum. You guys are amazing, I'll be perusing these 11 pages of info!

 

[il biggo]

Oh well, it's light enough to attach here, hope it's useful to someone

 

[passtudio9]

Oh well, it's light enough to attach here, hope it's useful to someone

Great Thanks a lot.
I have my original MG1214 in working order except for a bad pinch roller. A project will be to 3d print a support then find a proper rubber.

 

[kennygxtrem]

Great Thanks a lot.
I have my original MG1214 in working order except for a bad pinch roller. A project will be to 3d print a support then find a proper rubber.

where did you buy the tension spring for the idler tier (part 6, which holds the tension for part 4)

 

[Fte New]

Hey everyone,


it’s been a while since I last posted here.


First of all, @il biggo, thank you so much for the 3D print of the missing eject slider. I had it printed and installed, and it works perfectly now. Big shout-out to everyone who helped me so far — this really pushed the project forward.





Since then, I made good progress working on the mecha block, mainly the transport and tape section. The mixer section is working fine. I also replaced the idler tire rubber with a spare one, which works well now. Unfortunately, the idler tire axle was broken, so I stabilized it using glue and a small piece of plastic.





The misaligned cock wheel for the eject mechanism on the backside of the mecha block could be readjusted correctly, and eject now works fine again.





Now to the main problem:





When I insert a cassette, it loads correctly and the tape transport does work — but only if I manually press the pinch roller against the tape and capstan. The pinch roller itself does not move into position properly. If I load a cassette and press the pinch roller manually, the tape runs, but after a few minutes I get tape salad.





When pressing PLAY, the pinch roller mechanism only moves very slightly — it kind of snaps back and forth but never really engages. I’m not sure how it’s supposed to reach its correct position.





One possible cause might be that a spring fell off from the plastic piece that moves the idler tire into position during load/eject. However, even before that spring came off, the pinch roller wasn’t working correctly, so I’m unsure whether this is the main reason.





I also can’t find any adjustable mechanism on the backside of the mecha block (accessible from the bottom of the unit) that would explain or fix this behavior.





Additionally, there’s another issue:


The track control display (the one used to adjust solo and track arm) stopped working. This happened after I soldered something on another part of the PCB. Since then, it won’t come back on. I’m not sure whether this is a cable issue, a connector, or something on the PCB itself. The timecode display still works fine, though.





Overall, with your help — especially the 3D printed eject slider — I’ve made a huge step forward, and I’m really happy about the progress so far. Thanks again to everyone, and I’m very open to any recommendations or ideas on how to proceed.


Fte

 

[Fte New]

 

[Fte New]

In the first picture I marked the spring that fell of, and is now damaged, aswell as the pinchroller wich isn’t moved properly by the springloaded lever. The pinchroller axis itself moves very hardly and only when applying force to it.

Latter shows my querky self repaired axis of the idler tire.

 

[Fte New]

where did you buy the tension spring for the idler tier (part 6, which holds the tension for part 4)

Did you manage to get a spring for parts? The spring to the idler tire is the same like ones that are loaded in the sides of the cassette holder. Not the short- but the longer-ones… I took them both out and used one for the idler tire. The cassette holder will work anyway. Not ideal but at least a way

 

[Fte New]

Ok. I followed your instructions. Getting a reading of around 8.61 between pins 1&2 on p128 and 8.53 between terminal 77&152 at either end of the LCD.

Here is a pic of the p128 and the terminals of the LCD...

View attachment 98902

Hello @j.harv,

I read your posts about your Akai MG1212 adventure. I’m currently in the very same state of the display- counter- and transport-PCB Issues you were in back in the day.
After working on the PCB with powered-on unit the fuse blew out. Since then no respond on the display aswell as counters working funny, and the control button won’t respond…
Since I’m in the finishing state of getting the unit going again, this remains to be the the last issues to be fixed. I wonder how it did work out for you there. Right now I’m really lost, and would like to ask you, if you figured the the root that is causing the issue and how to fix it, or what parts I would have to exchange, if needed.

So far, Im really exited about your response, meanwhile have a nice weekend

Best
Fte