TelePaul
J to the R O C
Suppose the action is high on the E, A and D strings of my Les Paul, but lowering the action via the thumbscrew causes buzzing. Do I have a neck relief issue?
M1Fanatic
Digital whaaa?
Possibly, but what does the string height measure at the twelfth fret?
I think Gibson (and Epiphone) specify 5/32" at the E string. That's not carved in stone, but a guideline. I start there and adjust for myself. If it buzzes, it comes up. A little buzz can be tolerable as long as you can't hear it in the amp.
I think Gibson (and Epiphone) specify 5/32" at the E string. That's not carved in stone, but a guideline. I start there and adjust for myself. If it buzzes, it comes up. A little buzz can be tolerable as long as you can't hear it in the amp.
muttley600
Banned
Action is a product of the playing style, neck relief, and string gauge. You need to consider all three when lowering action.
TelePaul
J to the R O C
One of these days, I'm going to load up my Fiat Punto, get the car-ferry to Hollyhead and leave you a long list of things that I'd like done to my guitars. I'll come back for them in six months or so
On the issue of string gauge; all other things being equal, would a heavier guage increase or decrease the propensity for buzz?
muttley600
Banned
One of these days, I'm going to load up my Fiat Punto, get the car-ferry to Hollyhead and leave you a long list of things that I'd like done to my guitars. I'll come back for them in six months or so
On the issue of string gauge; all other things being equal, would a heavier guage increase or decrease the propensity for buzz?
decrease it but that also depends on several factors. It's really a matter of getting the f/b flat. stringing her up and dialling in enough relief to get rid of any buzz you may have. The sole purpose of a truss rod is to counter the pull of the strings. Adjusting relief is just a by product of that.
TelePaul
J to the R O C
Hey again Muttley.
I've been thinking about what you said before, and I actually am getting to terms with the various contributing factors which govern the height of a guitars action. And I've learnt more about it in the last two weeks than I ever knew before. But I suppose my question was more down to the fact that I'm used to messing about on Fenders, which usually have six saddles (or ocassionally three) saddles, and the height of each of these is adjustable on an individual basis. But on a Les Paul, you're essentially see-sawing six string heights between two points (where one is adjustable at a given time), right?
Also, you said getting the fingerboard flat is paramount. Flat by comparison to what, exactly? There's a curve in the board by design, right? The radius? And if you're putting relief in the neck, is it then possible to have a curved neck and a flat FB, even though they're glued together?
Reading that, it looks very VP. Sorry if I'm not explaining it well. I dunno how you do this man.
TelePaul
J to the R O C
5/32", that's like, 4mm? Seems quite high for an electric. From the bottom of the low E to the top of the 12th fret on mine is approx 2.5mm.
FoulPhil
Well-known member
I think it's worth finding a guitar tech in your area who can make these adjustment for you. Every time I've tried to do it I could never get things just right. I only use Dean Markley LTHB stings. So, it's worth paying $40 for a set up once a year.
I've learned to be very careful with my instruments over the years and they don't get dropped or thrown around, EVER.
I've learned to be very careful with my instruments over the years and they don't get dropped or thrown around, EVER.
TelePaul
J to the R O C
muttley600
Banned
Not really, Ideally the action is set relative to the f/b radius so the bridge should reflect that radius as a whole and not for individual strings. Sure fender allow for single string adjustment but the strings should still closely match the radius of the f/b. Which leads to....
Flat in that there is no relief when the strings are off. The only curve in the neck is the f/b radius. The neck is and should be made flat, the pull of the strings will create a bow and thye truss rod is there to counter that and that alone.
No, the neck and f/b act as one. They are made dead flat and the relief comes as a result of string tension and the amount of compensation the truss rod adds.
The f/b radius refers to the curve across the f/b from E-e not from first fret to last.
Not at all, VP would assume all this shit and make it fit his world and NEVER asked a question in all hi time here. He single handedly tried to reinvent physics.
Funnily enough I got an email today from a mate at gearslutz. He has just taken to slamming me over there for no reason after nearly two months of inaction. I checked in for a laugh but just don't have the will or time to respond. If you guys want to I can hook you all up.