6418 tube DI

[Blue Jinn]

So, I had these microphone input transformers Mercury Magnetics L115M, 1:10, but they don't have shielding. I thought, OK use 10:1 and for a DI. I have about a dozen 6418 tubes. I found a couple of Dell 19v laptop PSUs in the ecycling bin at my office building. So, why not.


So far, I've optested with a Strat knockoff Yamaha, that has two single coil and one humbucker. I get distortion with the Yamaha at 10 on all pickups. (It's the "good" overdrive sound distortion, but it would be nice to have the option of not) But going below 10, I get the dreaded 2-8 hum! and so there's no volume control either. (I built an active FET buffer into a box to plug into right close to the guitar jack, and that cures the hum with just a small amount of "color")

The plate and screen resistor values I got from another website guitar boost pedal. I didn't want to have to use the buffer all the time, so I have some MXL 2:1 mic transformers leftover, so I tried sticking one of those on the front end that helped tame the distortion, but doesn't sound quite right and I lose the "good" distortion. The laptop PSUs are dirty as hell, so needed some filtering. Lose about 2 volts or so. Now note, my optest is into a vintage Shure M68 mixer to my old Boombox. But I don't think that's the distortion. I also stuck a simple transistor buffer to get a line level output and used the line in on the 'box. Anyway, here it is schematic and breadboard for your comments and criticisms and any suggestions for improvement.

 

[ecc83]

G'day Bue! Geez, I have not worked with directly heated battery valve for around 55 years! I have often wondered what could be done with them in guitar circuits but not bothered to buy any to play with.

First of all, I am ot surprised you have uncontrolled distortion, as a pentode that valve will give massively too much gain, strapped as triode (link anode and G2 with ~100R) it will I am sure behave better. Also have a much lower output resistance to drive the transformer load which at best cannot be higher than 100k. Might even be more useful as a cathode follower?

"Biasing" is a bother, I can't remeber how it was done in battery valve radios, will look it up. I suspect 1k5 in the cathode is too high plus the filament volts need to be "the right way round" ref ground or the grid is positive WRT the filament/cathode!

Speaking of filament volts, that need to be UBER clean and I would use a Zener regulator.

I have other reservations but lack proper data as yet but will come back with a circuit and PMMWMMI!

Dave.

 

[Blue Jinn]

thanks Dave. Sorry for hte late reply. So I also did try in triode mode, still distorted, but again it's not *bad* distortion. Thanks on the impedance issue, it will probably sound better in triode mode, and there's still plenty of gain for a DI. As for distortion, I may just be pushing the headroom on the 6418, because dialing back the guitar volume addresses that, but then I get hum. I mostly wanted to use up some parts on hand. I'm going to wire it up as is, and still use it as an "effect" DI

As an aside, AMZ Muzique now has the buffer circuit premade for like $20. I've attached my "prototype" I had a couple guys I know try it out, and they liked it it. Doesn't color the sound very much and eliminates the hum.

Basic Buffers

Basic buffer circuits for use with guitar effects pedals.

www.muzique.com

 

[Blue Jinn]

"Biasing" is a bother, I can't remeber how it was done in battery valve radios, will look it up. I suspect 1k5 in the cathode is too high plus the filament volts need to be "the right way round" ref ground or the grid is positive WRT the filament/cathode!

Oh, and I believe I checked re: the correct polarity on the heater. I don't think I had much choice in the filiment resistor in order to use one power supply for both plate and filament I have to drop quite a bit to get the 1.25 volt filament.

 

[ecc83]

Oh, and I believe I checked re: the correct polarity on the heater. I don't think I had much choice in the filiment resistor in order to use one power supply for both plate and filament I have to drop quite a bit to get the 1.25 volt filament.

Ok Jim. The filament voltage was very critical in the radios, too low and the local oscillator in the frequency changer would stop. Too high and the filaments would pop! I would use an emitter follower regulator. BC184 (or sim) and a suitable LED)

BTW I have found a Mullard pocket data book 1968 and the 'D' series were obsolete by then and not listed!

Dave.