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hello. I found this thread super educational, but alas, I haven't been able to successfully get my a-6300 running without the "dummy plug." I was wondering where i might be able to find "ready-made" jumpers like the ones in the pictures. Thanks!

I just got a quote from an L.A. motor rebuilder for $150, when presenting the armature for the motor. It can be rewound and rebuilt, it seems, but at that price, I think I may have my friend opt for buying a new one from Teac.

hi Ethan, so I'm guessing that resoldering the solder points onto a new commutator wouldn't be the ticket to fixing this motor. I have a buddy in Portland and might consider shipping this part up there. would you know of any motor rebuilders that may be of help in my little venture? Thanks.

so I took this part to a couple places and both said that the motor's toast and I'd be better off finding a replacement. Unfortunately, for me, this part's discontinued. Which brings me to my next question, I have another Teac tape machine(an A-4010SL) and was wondering if I can rob from it...

presumably inspired by my raving about my own Tascam 38, my friend got himself one and we figured that the repair on his would be as easy as replacing the capstan belt. Were we wrong! I noticed that though the rewind and fast forward function well enough, when we try to play a reel, the...

awesome! Thanks guys. I gave isopropyl alcohol a go and it worked fine for the bits I got on my mouse and keyboard but for the thick layers of rubber that were left, I had to get out the steel wool and scrub the tar (pardon the pun) out of the capstan. I'll have to get some Oops! (love the...

so, I've been looking at my Tascam 38 and it seems I haven't given it a proper cleaning, telling from the way the capstan would occasionally seize up. I found that there's a bunch of gooey tar from the last capstan belt that's clogged up the gap between the capstan and the surrounding plate...

both tracks are incredible! I guess you don't have to be actively adjusting levels and pan to get a perfect mix. I think I may be a bit biased since I see the recording process ancillary to the musicality of a recording -- and these tracks have a whole lotta musicality to it. So spot on!

I took apart the broken fader to see why the "break" would've disrupted the signal flow. I found a strip of something that seems to connect the top "lead" with the bottom "lead." I was wondering if anyone here may be able to shed some light on what this strip consists of and if it's worth...

Thanks dementedchord. I didn't suspect these as being hex keys since the holes seemed a bit too rounded. With your help, I managed to finally take a look at what going on. Also, yeah, the crud I was referring to was that gunk around the plates that looks like old rubber cement. Aside from...

I had googled "mackie disassembly" to no avail. I removed the bottom plate and found that the main pcb is soldered onto the top plate in around six places. Is the only way to get access to the capacitors through desoldering these points or is there a special screwdriver that can remove the...

I ended up getting a new solder tip and was able to now know the difference between a working tip and a non-working tip and discovered the importance of tinning the tip prior to working. Most of the coking that you speak of seems to have occurred through my use of a wet rag to periodically...

thanks to the OP for bringing this up as I too found an external master clock for sale and was considering getting it, but realized that I only work with a laptop and a novation x-station (one soundcard). And thanks for everyone else for clearing the air of all the hype around jitter.

As far as getting rid of old solder, I've been using a braid. I think I may have already caused irreparable damage to my soldering pencil tip, just by neglecting to tin it in my first couple uses and letting it just heat up. It's now really discolored and doesn't respond to solder too well. I...

firstly, I apologize for the delayed response. I've been without net access for awhile and am back online. I did manage to get the Tascam part numbers for the fader and rotary knob as follows = -5282411000 -5284010100 I had one concern before I start getting out the soldering iron. Are...

Cory - I don't know, man. Don't think I haven't seen your tech vids floating around this forum. That's some heavy forensics right there. I can't tell firsthand what the faders' lengths are, but from a related post, I found that the fader is a 60mm fader. The code "5KD" is stamped on it as...

Thanks cjacek. I used an old upright piano and had a mic (whose picture I'll take eventually) aimed toward my chin, thus away from the piano. That's it. rolf - thanks. I didn't know that what I thought I was experiencing had a name. That's crazy that you could identify my settings. It was...

I will. Thanks! I'm glad that I can count on advice on every aspect of this reel to reel from you, Rolf. Seeing as how I've been using piano and vocals as my benchmark for recordings, I decided to record and mp3ize the results, which are found here. If you're up to it, I'd appreciate any...

Hi Cory. thanks for the encouragement -- coming from one of the premier DIYers in here, that's kinda awesome. =) I'll be back with more pics but just wanted to poke my head into say that I did call Teac/Tascam and got quoted $12 a piece for both the PCB (or rather the entire fader unit for the...

I'm that predictable, eh? =) ah, it's good to know that the knob issue is a non-issue after all. I recall seeing some metal polishing solvents on a few infomercials. That might be the ticket. And the take-up reel is plastic.