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Yeah, I figured it was the holders that were the problem after I posted. Thanks :)

Another view

See the white plastic surrounds on the LEDs? The five on the right are all broken so the LEDs don't sit true. How easy would it be to replace them?

To be clear, I created a solder bridge.

Well, I tried and made a complete hash of it. Not only did I solder one end of the wire to the wrong terminal, but I also managed to join two neighboring terminals together with solder. I can't do it, I'm not going to try and, expect an email soon @rob aylestone

A fault that was in something else entirely (a new pair of headphones).

I had to remove the boards from the mixer section to put them back because I took the wrong part off when I was looking for a fault

Well, I soldered the new pot into place to the best of my abilities, tried, as carefully as I could to put the board back in place and... The effect master pot fell off :( So now I need to replace that as well. What the heck were they making pots out of back in the 80s? Tin?

Ah. I tried to put it back but it wasn't having it. Is it okay to cut the dangling bit off?

And should I be concerned if it comes off?

But there's nothing wrong with the 8th ?

15mm D shaft 10K ohm audio taper pot ordered . Should be here on Tuesday.

Wait. I can use an audio taper pot? Also. It's Effect and Auxilliary. The Aux buss is meant to send an independent mono mix of the program material recorded thus far to the talent's headphones. Seems to me that for something like that you don't really need the ability to fade the signal out...

Oh. I've been looking at linear taper pots on the advice of another forum member (no names).

The only numbers I can see are 10KA and 551F. How do I measure the resistance?

How can I tell if it's linear, log or rev-log if it's not wired up to anything? I assume rev-log is reverse logarithmic. I'm pretty sure it's not that.

Would it still work if it was glued back on?

It's clearly impossible to find a replacement 15mm 10Kohm A taper pot for my 388's aux master control, either as a 388 part or as a M-300 series part. So could the original post be soldered back onto the remains of its legs that are still on the board? Alternatively would it be possible to...

I came prepared! :D

Which would you recommend?