let me see your studio!

[gumby1220]

here's my little space

 

[BeniRose]

So, how does one compare 2 inch panels and the LENRD's VS a 4 inch panel...if he doesn't HAVE the 4" panel in the first place..hmmmmm? After all, you said....BEFORE YOU DO THIS Furthermore, you would have to do FOUR tests. Record with only the 2" and Lenards, and play back with same. Record with 2" and Lenards, but playback with 4" and Lenards. Record with 4" and Lenards and play back with 4" and Lenards. And then, record with 4" and Lenards, and playback with 4" and Lenards...that is assuming this is all done in one room. Even then, monitor placement, engineering position and geometry, mic position, rear and side wall early reflection abatement...all have a bearing. Even using an ETF takes a qualified user to analyse whats going on too. Personally, I'd trust what LAB tests have shown. SUPERCHUNKS or double diagonal panels of 4" 703 have been proved superior. PERIOD.
http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=536

Hey Rick, I'm not sure where you got confused on this. He said in the future he would be upgrading from the 2"+Lenards to a 4" panel. I was requesting that before he do the upgrade do a formal comparison of the two setups. However, I did have a nice time imagining Yoda saying the first sentence of your post, since you ended it with a nice "hmmmmmm?"

But actually, this was somewhat of a mistake on my behalf. I was thinking the acoustic treatment was for treating the room for recording, not playback. I wasn't thinking straight when I said to do an A/B sample of a recording in the room, because that's not the point. The point is for playback, so it'd be harder to show us an A/B sample of that. And as you were saying he'd have to do a massive combination of recording/playback if he were to test it using his own recording methods.

And like I said, I wasn't doubting that 4" panels would be better. I think we all know that. What I was questioning was this immediate dismissal that anything other than 4" panels is a waste. I know that's not exactly what he said, but I've just seen over and over people responding with what they've been told is the only way to "do it right", and be quick to point out when people are "doing it wrong". Yes, maybe sounds 350Hz and lower aren't getting dampened properly and they may be a little over-exaggerated in his mixes because of it, but does that mean he will fail or has failed as an engineer because of that? Did the producers of the Beatles, Elvis, and other great artists all have 4" 703 panels in every corner of where they mixed? Probably not. It would be different if this was a thread about acoustic treatment or he asked for advice on his panel placement and sizes, but I just feel like sometimes we play by the rules a little too much.

Anyways, I apologize for the rant, that was just something that bugged me a little bit when I first read it. Again, I don't think the guy is wrong, I just thought the pertinence has been over-exaggerated a lot on these forums.

 

[pathdoc]

Here it is.

 

[TRevMFB]

Just a few quick shots of my setup.

And of course... the lava lamp.

 

[Weasel9992]

Cool...a couple of things:

Turn your speakers right-side up. They're not designed to be laid on their sides. The tweeters are designed to be phase-aligned with the bigger drivers below them when they're standing vertically. You're causing problems in terms of comb filtering as they're set right now.

Second...that's a whole lot of foam. Consider getting rid of about 2/3 of it and going with broad band panels and bass traps. You'll thank yourself when it comes to tracking and mixing.

 

[TRevMFB]

Cool...a couple of things:

Turn your speakers right-side up. They're not designed to be laid on their sides. The tweeters are designed to be phase-aligned with the bigger drivers below them when they're standing vertically. You're causing problems in terms of comb filtering as they're set right now.

Second...that's a whole lot of foam. Consider getting rid of about 2/3 of it and going with broad band panels and bass traps. You'll thank yourself when it comes to tracking and mixing.

when i had my speakers standing vertical, the tweeter position wasn't hitting my ears properly. the ominrax desk puts vertical standing speakers on the "speaker stands" too high.

and i got the foam to reduce reflections, since the room is also used for practice. i have a 5 piece band, so the room is tight. i've been avoiding the purchase and use of 4" thick panels (due to the loss of usable space)... and also i only spent well under $100 on the foam. i usually do my mixing elsewhere. only tracking in this room.

but thanks for the input, once i begin tearing down the current basement walls and building a control room and live/practice room i'll be using panels. the current room is relatively small because it was my bed room years ago. behind the back wall with the couch is my dad's old office that is no longer in use.

 

[r1chard]

My studio is very retro, in otherwords a lot of old junk, but I like mixing the old junk with the new junk. Below is a spare small 13x15 bedroom I use for now. It has a small 4.5x6 walk in closet which I put foam in it on the walls, ceiling and the door. I use a wireless keyboard to remotely record myself.

My plan is to finish the basement. I have a walk out and this corner is underground. It is a 17x17 ft room with a large walk 6x13 in closet to the right. I will put glass so you can close the door to the closet and see into the recording room, then converted back to bedroom if I sell the house. I have 9ft ceilings and will load it down with some noise reduction mass driver pad as well as suspended double drywall ceiling using zchannel.

Here is my gear.

Hardware
Keyboards
Ensoniq
EPS16+ EPSM ESQm
VFX-SD, TS10
Kork Triton (Karma Software)
O3RW
Roland D50 D-110
Alpha Juno2 MKS50 MKS70
Yamaha SY77 Tx7

Mixer
Behringer DDX3216
Roland Si24 x2
Mackie 16
Crest Audion FA901
Roland DS-8 digital monitors
Peavie PA Speakers and base bin.

FX
Alesis QuadraVerb
SPx90
BBE Soniq Maximizer
Yam Compressor
TubePac Mic preamp

Computer
Home built
Asus P7P55D-E pro
I5 Quad
4gb ram
80gbSSD
2TB raid
XP34/Win7 64

Software
FL Studio 9
Sonar Producer3/4 (Use VSTs only)
Logic (no longer used)
Pro Tools 7.3.1 (No longer used)

Workhorse Synth VSTS
Alchemy
TTS-1 Roland
CVPiano
Proteus X
FPC
Real Guitar 2
Harmless
Sytrus
All FS STudio plugins

FX VSTs
All FL Studio
Amplitube
Lexicon Reverb
BBE Sonic Maximizer
Sonitos Suite
FL Maxximizer
T-Racks

Midi Software
Karma Triton software

 

[Weasel9992]

Well..there you go. All labled and everything.

 

[r1chard]

As you can probably tell, I play keyboards. My studio is modest and I don't need a lot of the space and rig a real recording person needs. My friend uses a Variax so everything stays in the digital relm. The only real thing is vocals and with enough baffels and foam you can get things pretty quiet. Again, I do this for a hobby among 5 other hobbies that are all demanding time and to be fed money so that is the way it is for now. All my gear was in the basement until a month ago. I am trying to remix and old song I wrote over 25years ago, because I am still getting use to FL studio it is taking a lot longer than I thought and I am not sure it is revivable. Listening to the old one reminds me how bad a keyboard player I am as well as programmer, song writer, singer and years of my gear being in the basement has not helped. But it is still fun, winter is coming and I will have more time to devote to it in the future.

Original
Remixed

 

[frogpondaudio]

Well..there you go. All labled and everything.

In the event of a mishap, detailed photos and equipment list accompanied by serial numbers seems a great way to address any insurance concerns.

 

[dastrick]

here it is.

geaux tigers!!!!!!!!

 

[pathdoc]

<---Yes, LSU fan.
Two degrees from LSU. BS is 1988, MD in 1992.

 

[BeniRose]

My studio is very retro, in otherwords a lot of old junk, but I like mixing the old junk with the new junk. Below is a spare small 13x15 bedroom I use for now. It has a small 4.5x6 walk in closet which I put foam in it on the walls, ceiling and the door. I use a wireless keyboard to remotely record myself.

I didn't know zip drives were allowed in the new millennium! I thought the police came and took anyone away who still used one past 2005!

 

[Weasel9992]

<---Yes, LSU fan.
Two degrees from LSU. BS is 1988, MD in 1992.

Say Doc, it hurts real bad when I do *this*...

(...supply punch line here)

 

[dnkygirl]

Hi All,

I've been slowly building my workspace up over the years and am close to what I think is a fully functional home studio. There are some sound proofing items I'm still working on. I try to research things before I implement them into my space. My latest project was creating a keyboard slide for my desk. This totally allowed me to open up the room to add a seating area. My next project will be speaker stands. I upgraded to the KRK8's and my old stands are not working out with them. Here's a few photos of my updated space... let me know what you think and any ideas on sound isolation and room improvements are greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

well i modded my $50 ikea desk again and now have a full recording desk setup. I added rollers and the shelf for the speakers. I finished out the sound isolation behind the speakers as well. This rooms feels and sounds so much different from when I started. I'm still learning to record in it....

 

[r1chard]

I didn't know zip drives were allowed in the new millennium! I thought the police came and took anyone away who still used one past 2005!

LOL. I am just glad it still works, if you remember, they had the click of death syndrome and many died a quick death. It is the only way for me to get samples into the Korg Triton, it is a scsi zip drive. It is just easy to use and fairly fast. I have not looked into transfering the data via midi but I am sure it is much slower. I still have a bunch of tapes that hook to a tape recorder for my tx7 and korg ex800. Someday I will break it out and save it all to midi sysex on the computer.

The police searched my house but I knew they were coming and they didn't find it

 

[jamespianotalia]

Hi guys: I am a newbie. I am looking to build a four foot long wooden console to house a Digidesign 002 and a laptop. I only have four feet to work with. An office desk is to the right and my keyboards are to the left. I plan just to track parts so I do not have much gear. Any ideas or plans to look at? Someone posted a pic of their Soundcraft board in a console and it looked great! Question -where can I buy console legs and a padded arm rest?? Or how do I build a padded armrest? I have searched the internet without luck. Thanks so much for your help. The studio pics I see are amazing! Jim Talia

 

[TRevMFB]

... Question -where can I buy console legs and a padded arm rest?? Or how do I build a padded armrest? I have searched the internet without luck. Thanks so much for your help. The studio pics I see are amazing! Jim Talia

to build a padded arm rest. my suggestion would be using a piece of 1"x2" (or whatever thickness x width of your choice) round/route off the corner edges wrap it in poly fill, or a similar material. then wrap over that with vinyl leather.

 

[jeremyball]

Someone posted a pic of their Soundcraft board in a console and it looked great! Question -where can I buy console legs and a padded arm rest?? Or how do I build a padded armrest? I have searched the internet without luck. Thanks so much for your help. The studio pics I see are amazing! Jim Talia

Here's a link to thread from another site. I have a few pictures of where I built my armrest. I used a 2X4, Vinyl, and a staple gun. It's held up fine

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/448201-construction-photos-mixing-desk.html

(you have to scroll about 2/3 of the down to see the construction photos of the armrest)

Jeremy

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

how do I build a padded armrest?

Well, heres how I made mine. Although, because mine required precision clearances for a linear motion track/carriage, the angle of the mixer, and the existing steel support brackets, I had to machine a plank of Poplar to an exact profile. Here is the carriage, which is for my computer keyboard, mouse, tracking sheet and other things...like a glass of beer. I have 4 different trays that slip into a bracket on the carriage. This is the keyboard tray.

And once the pad was in place, the clearance.

And because this plank is 6 1/2" wide, to machine the primary face took a machine that most people don't have access to. Fortunately, i DO. Its called a Powermax sander.

Once the angle was established and machined, then I determined the profile and dados. machining using the test peice.

Then I cut a small section to use as a test piece, to experiment with the pading profile. First, because I used this product in past projects, I knew it had the proper "resiliancy". Its simply a foam sleeping bag pad, which I bought at Walmart. Cheap.

Then I rolled it out and cut it into long strips wider than the profile, which allowed for trimming once glued to the profiled plank. I used Contact cement on both pieces which worked great.

I use a piece of veneer to spread the contact evenly.

Here is some tests I did just to see how well this stuff would "bend". First, back on itself.

Then around a piece of 1/4" Masonite, which I thought I might have to fasten to the plank.

But once I did it on the test piece alone, I saw that I didn't need the masonite. This is why I test things.

Once I wraped the oversizsed pad, I used a utility knife to trim off the pad flush with the bottom. Notice the little wood cleat at the back edge. This is to allow the naughyde to have a nice firm sharp edge.

Also note the "T-nut". I predrilled holes for 1/4" bolts to fasten the wristpad to the console from undernieth through the support bracket. The Tnuts are threaded so the pad can be cinched up real tight with the bolts. You have to redrill the pilot hole with a Spade bit to allow the face of the Tnut to end up flush with the top face of the plank. Also, the Tnut has a "barrel" which is the actual nut, and you have to drill out the 1/4" pilot hole about a 1/2" deep for it to fit. Then simply drive them in with a hammer. Sometimes, I use thraded inserts, but not here. I did use threaded inserts on the endcaps though.

Ok, now for the naughyde. Because my wristpad is over 100" long, and Naughyde comes in 54" wide rolls, I didn't want to buy a continuous piece. I simply bought one yard, cut it in 10" wide strips, and had my wife sew three peices together end to end with a double backed stich on each side of the joining stich. Then I had one long piece to wrap the plank with.

Again, now I "test" the stretch of the naugahyde I selected at a local fabrics store.
I oversised the dado to allow the naughyde to completel wrap the front and rear edge and hide the staples.

Once it worked on the test piece I knew it would work on the real deal.


Here is fit test, to guarantee the clearances and dado depths were correct. before making the real wrist pad.

Btw, here is the OLD endcaps, before I modded the console for a Tascam 3700 mixer.

Because of the depth front to bac,k was much deeper, I had to make new endcaps also. Here is the new one with the pad.

And here is the finished pad in place.

Well, thats how I did it. Hope it helps.