String Gauge on LP?

  • Thread starter Thread starter TelePaul
  • Start date Start date
Sky Blue Lou said:
Top wrapping reduces the break angle and allegedly makes bending easier. I top wrap mine primarily to reduce the chance of breaks at the bridge. If bending is easier I haven't really noticed.
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Yep, and I don't notice it's any easier to bend either.

I like the way the stop tail is screwed all the way down into the body when you top wrap your strings, I think it provides a far better anchor for the strings and it makes up a bit for using lighter gauges.
 
Really, it's whatever you're used to.

I'm not a Les Paul player myself, but my roommate owns a rather nice Studio and I was actually setting it up for him last night. He's got 10's on it right now simply because he and I both simultaneously ran out of 11's (we use Elixir Nanoweb 11's, he on his LP and me on my Strat, while I use Nanoweb 10's with a 68 low B on my Universe).

Having gotten used to 11s on a six string, and 10s on a longer scale on a 7 (25.5 vs 24.75), he and I both agree that we're personally more comfortable on the Les Paul with 11s. However, we both happen to like fairly heavy strings, and I've got the action relatively low on his Les Paul, so fretting isn't as bad as it could be.

Your mileage will probably vary, TelePaul, but if you're used to a particular gauge on a Telecaster (as I suspect you are), you might want to at least experiment with one gauge heavier on the Les Paul, at first, just to see if the shorter scale means you'd prefer the slightly heavier strings.
 
DrewPeterson7 said:
Really, it's whatever you're used to.

I'm not a Les Paul player myself, but my roommate owns a rather nice Studio and I was actually setting it up for him last night. He's got 10's on it right now simply because he and I both simultaneously ran out of 11's (we use Elixir Nanoweb 11's, he on his LP and me on my Strat, while I use Nanoweb 10's with a 68 low B on my Universe).

Having gotten used to 11s on a six string, and 10s on a longer scale on a 7 (25.5 vs 24.75), he and I both agree that we're personally more comfortable on the Les Paul with 11s. However, we both happen to like fairly heavy strings, and I've got the action relatively low on his Les Paul, so fretting isn't as bad as it could be.

Your mileage will probably vary, TelePaul, but if you're used to a particular gauge on a Telecaster (as I suspect you are), you might want to at least experiment with one gauge heavier on the Les Paul, at first, just to see if the shorter scale means you'd prefer the slightly heavier strings.
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I totally agree that the shorter scale length of a Les Paul makes it way more accomodating to heavier string gauges than some other guitars. 11s really don't feel all that heavy, but I've been playing on 11s for about 10 years at least.

Whatever you put on, all it will take will be a little bit of time to get used to it. 10s or 11s may feel heavy at first, but really you'll get used to them in a jiffy.

That top-wrapping business looks like it makes the angle at which the string bends at the saddle too shallow, and that the string would be more liable to pop out of its slot in the saddle. Also it looks like a good way to scratch the nickel plating on your tailpiece. I don't think that I'll be trying it any time soon.
 
Tadpui said:
That top-wrapping business looks like it makes the angle at which the string bends at the saddle too shallow, and that the string would be more liable to pop out of its slot in the saddle. Also it looks like a good way to scratch the nickel plating on your tailpiece. I don't think that I'll be trying it any time soon.
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If you don't break strings then there is no need to bother with it. I've never had a string pop out of the saddle. As far as scratching the tailpiece you must not be hardcore. Check out the Les Paul Forum some time and the lengths some guys go to "age" their Lesters. In reality, for me anyway, my sweat is so acidic that tailpieces get all corroded to shit in no time. Some scratches aren't going to detract from the look or value.


lou
 
I think it'd only be an issue anyway if you decided to stop doing it - the strings should hide any scratching.

The only concern I would have would be for palm muting - I could see it being less comfortable.
 
DrewPeterson7 said:
I think it'd only be an issue anyway if you decided to stop doing it - the strings should hide any scratching.
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This is true. The strings will put a groove into the tailpiece, but you can't see it when the strings are on.

DrewPeterson7 said:
The only concern I would have would be for palm muting - I could see it being less comfortable.
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Nothing you can't get used to really quickly. On my R4, Melody Maker, and Special, all of which use a single-piece wrap-around bridge/tailpiece, I have to palm mute a little differently than on other guitars but the strings being up on top doesn't bother me at all.
 
DrewPeterson7 said:
I think it'd only be an issue anyway if you decided to stop doing it - the strings should hide any scratching.

The only concern I would have would be for palm muting - I could see it being less comfortable.
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Pretty much correct. You can't see the wear marks on my tailpieces with the strings on.

I palm mute above the bridge - can't tell any difference. Muting my R4 is a bit different 'cause there is no bridge!


lou
 
Zaphod B said:
Hey, Lou - how ya liking that R4? :)
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Oh man. Schweeeeeet. New guitars always get number one status for a while but I think this one is gonna keep it. I'm not gigging it yet. I'm not comfortable with the idea of bringing it out to bars. My other two can handle the load for now.


lou
 
Sky Blue Lou said:
Oh man. Schweeeeeet. New guitars always get number one status for a while but I think this one is gonna keep it. I'm not gigging it yet. I'm not comfortable with the idea of bringing it out to bars. My other two can handle the load for now.


lou
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I'm afraid to take mine to Westfest. It's still so pristine......:o
 
Sky Blue Lou said:
Pretty much correct. You can't see the wear marks on my tailpieces with the strings on.

I palm mute above the bridge - can't tell any difference. Muting my R4 is a bit different 'cause there is no bridge!


lou
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:eek:













;)
 
lpdeluxe said:
Blame arthritis. And it's so hard to find sets with wound B strings.
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Just yankin' yer chain as you know but what sets are you using? You can often work in a wound B and E for the real men.:cool:
 
Tadpui said:
I've strung my LP with .011 strings since day 1. A little setup was required but I have to have those heavy strings to get my preferred tone. The open A string is just a powerhouse when using 11s. Same goes for 5th-7th fret on the high E string. Plus 12th position has a great sound to it on the neck pickup with the 11s. I wouldn't use anything but 11s if anybody paid me. The extra tension just brings out the beauty and aggression of my LP. Love 'em.
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I hear you... I've used 9's, 10's and now 11's. Ernie Ball Beefy Slinky (11-54). Sounds so much better. I especially find the tone of the B & high E strings to be much more satisfying with the heavier strings.
 
muttley600 said:
Just yankin' yer chain as you know but what sets are you using? You can often work in a wound B and E for the real men.:cool:
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D'Addario XL: EX115W (.011, .014, .021W, .028W, .038W, .049W) and EJ21 (.012, .016, .024W, .032W, .042W, .052W).

Acoustics get .013 - .056Ws (forget the brand, I don't often play acoustic) and the Dobros get Martin Bluegrass Resonator (.016, .018, .026W, .036W, .046W, .056W); the basses wear Thomastik-Infeld Jazz Flats (unknown gauge).

Tell ya what, I have to order 'em by the dozen.
 
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