I just built my first drum from scratch

NegadivOne

NegadivOne

Alchemy slut
I've built drums before using keller shells, assembling the hardware to the shell and whatnot, but I didn't really feel like I was building a drum. This is my first drum built completely from scratch, it is maple and bubinga, 14x5.75. Let me know what you think, I'll try to get some audio of it up sometime soon.

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That seems like it would be an awful lot of nit-picky work, but I bet it's nice to be able to say that you built it. I'd love to hear how it sounds.
 
It is a ton of work but it doesn't even feel like work to me. I've never had more fun or satisfaction than I got from building this drum. I've already got a few others in the works.
 
JTC111 said:
She's a beauty!
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I'll say. Actually, if I don't get an internship this semester, I might do an independent study and take up this kind of project, though I think I'd try to build myself some mics or a bass amp instead (I've already got a nice drum kit). Or a reverb unit... hmmmm...
 
If this is your fist drum from scratch, why is the serial number 08202?:confused:

Was this a kit? Did you shape the pieces yourself? What's the grid that it's sitting on?

And since this is not a multi-ply shell, how is it protected from warping?
 
super-nice! looking forward to hearing a sample.

btw, i commented on this last night, but apparently it didn't go through! :confused:

would you mind telling us what it cost you total?

again, nice work! :)
 
PhilGood said:
If this is your fist drum from scratch, why is the serial number 08202?:confused:

Was this a kit? Did you shape the pieces yourself? What's the grid that it's sitting on?

And since this is not a multi-ply shell, how is it protected from warping?
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Alright let me see if I can answer all these

1. This is the first drum that I've built from scratch, but it's not the first drum I've built. The 0820 signifies 2008, and the 2 at the end is because it's the second drum I've built in 08.

2. This was not a kit, I started with regular old maple lumber and a couple planks of bubinga, did EVERYTHING myself as far as the shell goes. The grid it's sitting on is a layout mat from drumfoundry.com, it's a must have if you want to build drums.

3. This type of shell is actually less prone to warping than traditional ply drums are because the grain is in its natural alignment, its not stretched or bent at all so it's not trying to move. The only concern with stave drums is that they are more prone to swelling and shrinking with seasonal changes, but simple steps like protecting both the inside and outside with tung oil and drilling the holes slightly over sized make this a non issue.
 
drossfile said:
super-nice! looking forward to hearing a sample.

btw, i commented on this last night, but apparently it didn't go through! :confused:

would you mind telling us what it cost you total?

again, nice work! :)
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Thanks man, I dont have the exact numbers in front of me but I figure somewhere around 240-250. 40 ish for the wood and then around 200 for the hardware and heads. But if you factor in the money I spent on tools and materials for jigs and just time spent working, its much, MUCH more lol.
 
The following comments are not meant to take away from Negadiv's work................



QUOTE......"people would pay big bucks for that!"

Unfortunately, probably not. Due to the number of guys who are now building stave constructed shells, they have become almost common place.



QUOTE......"This type of shell is actually less prone to warping than traditional ply drums are because the grain is in its natural alignment, its not stretched or bent at all so it's not trying to move."

Having spent a couple of years researching and learning, and then making ply shells, I'm afraid I have to disagree with your comments and whoever told that doesn't know shit!!!

Anyways, great job and I see you've used Drum Foundry's layout mat.

:cool:
 
ausrock said:
The following comments are not meant to take away from Negadiv's work................



QUOTE......"people would pay big bucks for that!"

Unfortunately, probably not. Due to the number of guys who are now building stave constructed shells, they have become almost common place.



QUOTE......"This type of shell is actually less prone to warping than traditional ply drums are because the grain is in its natural alignment, its not stretched or bent at all so it's not trying to move."

Having spent a couple of years researching and learning, and then making ply shells, I'm afraid I have to disagree with your comments and whoever told that doesn't know shit!!!

Anyways, great job and I see you've used Drum Foundry's layout mat.

:cool:
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Hey man, don't be afraid to disagree with me, but if I am wrong please explain to me why I am wrong so I can learn from my mistakes. I'm only speaking from my experience but I've seen several ply shells go out of round I've yet to see a stave go out of round. Granted, I am no expert and havent yet seen a stave say, 10 years after being built.
 
NegadivOne said:
Hey man, don't be afraid to disagree with me, but if I am wrong please explain to me why I am wrong so I can learn from my mistakes. I'm only speaking from my experience but I've seen several ply shells go out of round I've yet to see a stave go out of round. Granted, I am no expert and havent yet seen a stave say, 10 years after being built.
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Being out of round isn't a problem provided it isn't excessive and considering just how many more ply shells are out there compared to staves, this........."I've seen several ply shells go out of round I've yet to see a stave go out of round".........is not surprising ;).

Because of the nature of it's construction and the usual thickness, a stave (or segmented shell) should be quite stable. If they have a weakness, it is that if dropped, they may split along either a glue joint or one of the staves. Ply shells are usually cross laminated and this give them an inherent strength and durability that can't be built into other timber shell types. Steam bent, stave, segment and solid one piece shells are all "machined" so any imperfections evident in their raw state will usually be removed by the "machining" process.

:cool:
 
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