Hello pandamonk, i just edited this. You must have posted your reply just before I did. Sorry, I'm not trying to negate your suggestion of a room in a room solution. I do NOT feel his budget nor his needs justify a RIAR. Hence, my following clarifications.
Sorry for my confusion... are you saying that I should build a room inside a room? Build walls on the concrete... insulate... then build the actual studio walls...etc?
NO. A room within a room "floats" on its own floor. A total different concept. What I am telling you is "how" to drywall the concrete block, and "how" to divide the existing space with a particular partition assembly.
Here is what YOU said...
Do you think that simply framing the new walls directly against the block, using the proper insulation and the double layers of drywall will do the trick? Should I put some kind of material between the new framing and the cement block walls?
I am simply telling you that you ONLY need to FURR out the framing. Do you understand what "furring" means? In essence, yes, it is a new frame. How else are you going to attach the drywall? I certainly wouldn't suggest attatching the drywall DIRECTLY to the concrete block. However, furring is thinner and cheaper than a standard stud frame. This is why I suggested fastening FURRING strips DIRECTLY TO THE BLOCK, which is then used to fasten the drywall OR Resiliant Channel to. Furring strips can be as small as a 1x2(actually 3/4"x1 1/2"). However, I suggested using 2x2(actually 1 1/2"x1 1/2") to provide a deeper gap for insulation purposes. R-19 is designed to fill a stud cavity 3 1/2" deep, but you can compress it into a 1 1/2" cavity I believe. Or use insulation designed for this depth.
The ONLY place you MUST build a standard framed wall is the partition wall.
I only suggested the TYPE of assembly to DECOUPLE the drywall from the opposite space...either by STAGGERED STUD or use standard framing and Resiliant Channel on the studio side of the partition. Do NOT use staggered stud AND Resiliant Channel as it would be redundant and more expensive. I also suggested using Resiliant Channel on the furring strips AND the ceiling. This will decouple the entire envelope, thereby providing a more robust TRANSMISSION LOSS to the outside world and the adjacent space.
So all I really wanted to know was if I built 4 staggered stud walls, insulate them (need advice on whats good to use) then drywall, then rc, add another layer of drywall... would this do? I feel like im wasting everyones time here so from your experiences, would that do? Thank you.
NO. You do NOT have to build 4 staggered stud walls. Besides, why would anyone build a staggered stud wall next to a concrete block wall? Staggered stud construction is used to decouple the drywall on each face, and you don't need to, nor could you fasten the drywall (facing the block) when the framing is built next to the concrete block
Thats why I suggested "furring" AND RC. In reality though, you COULD build a standard wall against the concrete block and THEN use RC/2 layers of drywall. OR, you could space the framing out from the block(which then decouples it) and fasten drywall directly to the studs. But why? Thats a hell of a lot more expensive than furring strips/RC, no?
However this portion of your question REALLY needs to be clarified.
then drywall, then rc, add another layer of drywall... would this do?
NEVER, and I mean NEVER fasten RC OVER a layer of drywall. The RC ALWAYS is fastened directly to the studwork. Otherwise you create another airgap between layers of drywall....which is a complete NO NO!! You want the double layers to ACT AS ONE LAYER. Which brings up the issue of GREEN GLUE! Although it is fairly expensive, using Green Glue(which is a brand name of adhesive) to bond the layers together, which allows the layers to ACT AS ONE. And remember, do NOT use RC on both faces of the partition wall. In fact, if you use STAGGERED STUD construction on the partition wall, you DON"T need RC there. Only on the FURRING walls.
Like I said earlier if the sound level outside was a 10 im really only looking for it to be 7.
drums4me, I'm only trying to illustrate for you that using a few other principles, instead of a 6, you might achieve a 3 with very little additional expense. Paying attention to details, caulking, sealing, and ABSOLUTE DILIGENCE when attatching the drwall to the RC, will pay off big time when it comes to TRANSMISSION LOSS.
Also I need a room that I can heat in the winter and keep cool in the summer.
Didn't I ask you TWICE what your plan for HVAC was? You need to think about this BEFORE you start building. PERIOD. Ductwork or any type penetration through the interior envelope needs to be addressed BEFORE building. And what about the roof framing? Tell us about this. Two layers of drywall hanging from an existing roof frame adds a HELL OF A LOAD, which it MAY not be designed to carry. Should you build a NEW ceiling framing supported by the walls....well, if you furr out the concrete walls, you will have to add a LEDGER to the concrete block ABOVE the furring, to fasten new joists to. ALL these details need to be addressed BEFORE construction begins.
And btw, let me add one more thing. PERMITS
Do you own this building? I don't know where you live or what codes are relevant there, but I believe ANYTIME you partition off an existing space, you probably need a permit. Especially if you are running electrical, HVAC, adding doors etc. Doing anything that requires a permit, and you do it WITHOUT one, may possibly set you up for a fine, insurance void, and other ugly consequences, not to mention fire ESCAPE. Thats why permits are required...USUALLY.
I feel like im wasting everyones time here so from your experiences
Not at all. Thats why the STUDIO BUILDING FORUM exists. To help prevent you wasting money and time.
Don't hesitate to ask questions. I can even provide drawings showing how to do this stuff if need be. Just ask. But YOU must provide INFORMATION in order to understand WHAT exists, like the roof framing. Anyway, hope this helps you understand a few things. There are many more to address PRIOR to building.
fitZ
as are slabs haha 