Dolby B, C, or S?

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FALKEN

FALKEN

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I got a used tape casette deck and it gives me the option of Dolby B, C, or S. My old machine didn't give the option. What are the differences? What type is most likely to be employed in my car? Should I use that type if I am going to be listening in the car to what I record on this machine? Thanks for any help.
 
I got a used tape casette deck and it gives me the option of Dolby B, C, or S. My old machine didn't give the option. What are the differences? What type is most likely to be employed in my car? Should I use that type if I am going to be listening in the car to what I record on this machine? Thanks for any help.

I'm probably in the minority here, but I abandoned the use of any form of Dolby on a cassette machine many, many years ago and never missed it. My main cassette deck is a Nakamichi 482Z. Now it won't record any more (can't be fixed as the critical part doesn't exist, except in other units) but it still plays the old recordings fine.

Your car machine is likely to have Dolby B, if anything. Dolby C has a stronger level of processing and goes lower in frequency, yielding more apparent increase in S/N. I've forgotten the details of Dolby S.

I prefer to live with the hiss since I think the actual sound is better than with Dolby. I always hated being able to hear the processing and the change in the noise floor when listening on headphones when strong high frequency transients like drum machine parts were recorded. It's much more natural without that processing. YMMV.

Cheers,

Otto
 
B is the old standby. You get a boost in high end if you don’t have NR for playback, but it can still sound ok. A lot of albums were released on cassette with Dolby B back in the day. Dolby C doesn’t sound so good without decoding.

Dolby S is the latest and best for home hi-fi. It was originally designed for cassette, but as you know was later licensed for semi-pro open-reel multi-track.

The age-old dilemma with NR is that using it means you must have the means to decode it later on for best results. Dolby B is probably the best compromise for compatibility, but S is the best and most advanced and the decks that have it are higher quality. Unfortunately, this means S is not as common on cassette decks.

However, S encoded tapes sound ok if you only have B to play them back. Some say S even sounds ok without decoding, but I think that is stretching it a bit. There were albums released on cassette with Dolby S, but I never saw any. It may have become more common had CD not come on the scene when it did.

I’ve posted this link from Dolby before a few times, but they’re buried somewhere, so here it is again. It’s a good read.

http://www.dolby.com/assets/pdf/tech_library/212_Dolby_B,_C_and_S_Noise_Reduction_Systems.pdf

:)
 
I'm probably in the minority here, but I abandoned the use of any form of Dolby on a cassette machine many, many years ago and never missed it. My main cassette deck is a Nakamichi 482Z. Now it won't record any more (can't be fixed as the critical part doesn't exist, except in other units) but it still plays the old recordings fine.

Your car machine is likely to have Dolby B, if anything. Dolby C has a stronger level of processing and goes lower in frequency, yielding more apparent increase in S/N. I've forgotten the details of Dolby S.

I prefer to live with the hiss since I think the actual sound is better than with Dolby. I always hated being able to hear the processing and the change in the noise floor when listening on headphones when strong high frequency transients like drum machine parts were recorded. It's much more natural without that processing. YMMV.

Cheers,

Otto

As I recall Dolby S was a consumer version of SR which was used professionally and on feature movie release prints. Stereo feature movies on ordinary 35mm film were made possible by Dolby reducing the noise on the two now much narrower optical tracks.

Actually I think, Otto, you would be in the majority of home users who also abandoned using Dolby on cassettes.

Dolby was used very sucessfully at the pro level from the mid 60's on but this was with pro machines which could easily be aligned and serviced. Dolby was cruel on any non linearity in the record/playback chain but the public mostly wasnt told that downside. Many if not most cassette machines had no external facilities for aligning bias/record level, were only 2 head types, and there were other ways for the alignment to go out and for the Dolby tracking to go off by a little or by a lot, and sound terrible.

But I disagree that Dolby always sounded bad, even on cassette. On a well set up recorder you would be struggling to hear any artifacts, just less hiss. Ray Dolby did his homework.

For many years I recorded conference speakers direct to cassette and I always recorded with Dolby B switched in. In no way did I expect the Dolby tracking to stay accurate right through to consumer casette copies played on their home machines, but it meant that the original recording contained a lot less hiss than it otherwise would, or put another way, more headroom available. These days I can go back to those original recordings, personally decode them accurately, with adjustments if needed, and have a recording which is much less hissy than if there had been no NR, and has few if any mistracking artifacts.

This to me is much preferable to having to resort to "after the fact" denoising and noise gates, which are all the rage these days, but which by nature cannot retrieve information that was buried in tape hiss. You have to reduce noise at the beginning. After that is too late.

As for Dolby decoding working consistently in a car cassette player, a bit of a gamble IMO. Too many things to go wrong.

Tim
 
I found the manual for this deck online and it appears that it might be able to be calibrated. I am going to look into this.

Also, it appears that it has Dolby HX in at all times. It cannot be disabled. Any opinions about this?
 
I have a mchine that has S and it's absolutely the best when you have a playback that can decode it. However, though I've read this before, I didn't find it sounded that good using B to decode it.
I ended up using B except for tapes that I'd only play in that machine.
For car tapes I generally preferred to use B and then not decode it in the car and just use EQ instead so I got that increase in top end.
 
Also, it appears that it has Dolby HX in at all times. It cannot be disabled. Any opinions about this?


Since HX pro is basically an advanced dynamic bias feature it’s preferable to have it working. You don’t normally see an on/off switch for it. It’s not something that is encoded/decoded.

What model deck do you have?
 
Sony TC-WA8es

I found the manual for the TC-WE8esA

to me it makes the hiss sound like the ocean.. its pretty awful... I am gonna try to clean and bias the machine and see if it gets any better. as it is, it makes the use of dolby mandatory and still you get a little seasick.

So far dolby S would be the quietest but has the most artifacts so dolby C is actually winning.
 
Things have to be tighter for Dolby S to work well, so B and C sounding better makes sense if the deck is in need of calibration. HX pro (Headroom eXtension) doesn’t reduce noise per se, but shouldn’t add any either.
 
I'd avoid encoding with anything if you plan on listening to the tapes in your car. If your car has noise reduction, it's going to be Dolby B, but with all of the bumps of driving, it's likely not in alignment anymore.

-MD
 
cleaning, demagging, and calibrating (biasing) the machine it sounds a lot better. I also found some 60 min tapes (was using 90). So all of that being done together, its hard to tell which was most effective, but it doesn't really matter, it was effective. I decided to go with dolby B but I think in the future I might try C and S again...when I went back to record again I noticed that the room was noiser than I thought...the cabinet rattles, all of the stuff in the room rattles....so its hard to tell if it was the HX or the room which sounded like the ocean. I think at some point in the future I should just dub some albums over, this would be the easiest way to test....
 
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