Your 8" Monitors Suck!

  • Thread starter Thread starter barefoot
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barefoot

barefoot

barefootsound.com
Yeah, that's right. I'm talkin' to you.

You may think you're a recording god, but you don't know shit about how loudspeakers work. So let me enlighten you.;) :D

Here are the two major problems with using two-way monitors with 8" woofers:

1. Distortion

It's impossible, at least at this point in time, to design an 8" driver which can reproduce high resolution, low distortion midrange. Due to internal cone resonances and external standing waves , 8" midbass drivers are ever increasingly cluttered with distortion as the frequency rises above 1kHz. And since most midbass drivers are still producing significant output up to about 7kHz or 8kHz, they are clouding the most critical and sensitive frequency band to the human ear.

This is true even for more exotic cone materials like carbon fiber, fiberglass and Kevlar. The common polypropylene 8" drivers have embarrassingly poor midrange performance. If you are trying to hear high resolution 24bit audio and you're using 8" monitors you're WRONG. 5" or at maximum 6" midbass drivers are what you need.

In some of my cheaper speaker designs I often use $35 polypropylene 5" midbass drivers which easily outperform the midrange accuracy of $250 graphite composite 8" midbass drivers.

2. Power Response

Once again the problem is in the critical midrange. Large diameter drivers begin to focus their acoustic energy like a flashlight at higher frequencies. The on axis Amplitude Response begins to naturally rise if the Power Response stays flat.

Amplitude Response, Power Response????

Amplitude Response is a measure of the amplitude of the signal at a given point in space. Those flat frequency response curves for your monitors are On Axis Amplitude Response measurements. Power Response is a measure of the total acoustic power emanating into the room as a function of frequency.

In order for an 8" driver to maintain a flat amplitude response beyond about 800Hz it's power output must be reduced above this frequency. 8" two-way systems, therefore, have a significant power output dip in the midrange. There's no getting around it regardless of cost. 5" drivers maintain fairly flat power response up to about 1500Hz. This is not ideal either, but it's much closer to the tweeter crossover frequency than for an 8".

"So what?" you say. "I'm mainly worried about translatability". Well, you're WRONG on this consideration as well. The large woofer two-way format (ala Advent, AR, Boston Acoustics) started loosing favor with consumers back in the early 80's. The most common home systems you see nowadays are small 4" or 5" satellites with a subwoofer. When you do see large speakers in someone's living room, they are most often either 3-way aTweeter-Mid-Woofer arrangement or a Tweeter-Small Midbass-Sub arrangement similar to the satellite systems, but put in a single box. Neither of these suffer from the same sort of midrange power dip as 8" monitors.

The car environment is too small and complicated to worry about single axis amplitude response, so car stereo designers primarily design for flat power response. Once again 8" monitors are the wrong choice for good translatability.

Advice from the Master

Uhh, yeah... I do mean ME. At least from all I read on this bbs, I proclaim that I am the undisputed loudspeaker guru.:D

Q: How do I get high accuracy, low distortion midrange?
A: Buy high quality monitors with dedicated midrange or small midbass drivers.

Q: How do I get good translatability to consumer audio?
A: Buy high quality monitors with dedicated midrange or small midbass drivers.

Q: How do I get deep accurate bass?
A: Buy high quality monitors with dedicated midrange or small midbass drivers and add one, preferably two, high quality, well integrated subwoofers.

Oh yeah, one more thing. Fix your damned control room acoustics, they suck!

Peace:D

barefoot
 
barefoot,

how much would you charge to build a very accurate, unforgiving, speaker with good bass response and non fatiguing highs.

If you can build speakers that outpeform whats out on the market right now for the same price or lower(you mentined $35 midrange drivers), guess what, your'e in business. I'll buy a pair.

And I know anybody interested in translateable music will buy a pair.
 
Cyan can suck my 8" cock.


See what that does for your mixes...
 
CJ,

Sorry, I didn't mean to suggest that my speakers or any other custom speakers could compete with the price of the average brand name monitor. The big brands have economies of scale on their side. $35 may sound cheap, but Mackie probably pays less than $25 for their woofers. My systems are relatively expensive. But then their performance is in a different league.

I'm just trying to guide people in the right direction based on my knowledge of loudspeaker design, acoustics and the like.

barefoot
 
Re: Re: Your 8" Monitors Suck!

Dolemite said:
Cyan can suck my 8" cock.


See what that does for your mixes...

Since when is this<----------------------------------> 8"?
 
Re: Re: Re: Your 8" Monitors Suck!

NYMorningstar said:


Since when is this<----------------------------------> 8"?

that looks like a mere 2-3 inches to me ROFL.

barefoot, so how much will your design cost to build and How will it compare to ,say, a krk v8?
 
Barefoot, so what do you think of the below system for home theater?

5 surround:
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ProductsPage.asp?ProductID=114&SpecID=1&SeriesID=15

Sub:
http://www.energy-speakers.com/subwoofers/subwoofer_speakers_s10.html

Nuther question: IF I was ever going to replace the tweeter in my KRK Rokits ( I think I rember you saying the 6" woofers were pretty good but the tweeters were only ok), can you recommend a replacement tweeter that will work with the existing crossover and won't break the bank?
 
Re: Re: Re: Your 8" Monitors Suck!

NYMorningstar said:


Since when is this<----------------------------------> 8"?

Just since you guys started checking ;)
 
So, if I'm listening to a few different monitors and find that a two-way system with an 8" woofer sounds best, I should buy a new set of ears instead of new monitors?
 
CyanJaguar said:
barefoot, so how much will your design cost to build and How will it compare to ,say, a krk v8?
What was that CJ? You want to know what? Sorry, I didn't hear you the first twenty times.;)

I have such little free time these days, so I really try to select projects that are interesting, different and stand out. With respect to monitors, I've been concentrating on designs which push the limits of linearity and low distortion. This means at minimum a 3-way bi-amplified system. The last set of monitors I built were 3-way tri-amplified with some of the lowest distortion drivers available and elaborate "barefoot proprietary" box designs and digital signal processing to pull off the crossovers and low end response. Price? About $4k in drivers, amps, materials and such. I built them for a friend at cost (the way I mostly do it these days).

I build cheaper systems and save money by integrating components like amps that people already have. Still you're talking $1500 cost at minimum. Now that's cheap considering their performance, but expensive relative to your average nearfield.

I guess I'm padding my words here a lot, but I don't what to make it seem like I'm not interested in helping people out. I am. But for folks who what to save money on $499.95 type monitors, there's not much more I can do than direct them towards sensible design philosophies, like I've tried to do in this thread. In the $1k range, I've suggested a few DIY kits which offer much higher accuracy than the average monitor. If you have some spare cash and want to collaborate on a fun and cutting edge design, then let me know. Maybe we can work something out.:)

Compare my latest designs to the V8? No, I don't think there's any comparison.:D

tdukex said:
Barefoot, so what do you think of the below system for home theater?......
Not much. The Boston Acoustics look way over priced for not so great speakers. And Energy, from my experience, just offers low quality in shiny boxes.

tdukex said:
Nuther question: IF I was ever going to replace the tweeter in my KRK Rokits ( I think I rember you saying the 6" woofers were pretty good but the tweeters were only ok), can you recommend a replacement tweeter that will work with the existing crossover and won't break the bank?
Nope. It's an Axon tweeter, but OEM manufacturers almost always order custom versions of a basic driver. Even if I did have the exact response and impedence curves of these tweeters, selecting a plug-and-play replacement is next to impossible.

BasPer said:
So, if I'm listening to a few different monitors and find that a two-way system with an 8" woofer sounds best, I should buy a new set of ears instead of new monitors?
What I'm saying is, all things being equal, smaller woofers easily outperform larger woofers in midrange linearity as well as having superior power response characteristics. Though it's implicit in the argument, I neglected to elaborate that the 8" power response dip affects the amount of ambient (reflected) midrange in the room. The room could conceivably be designed to tonally compensate for this power dip "on average", but the off axis response is complex and foam and diffusers can't fix frequency dependent arrival time differences.

Your phrase "sounds best" opens a whole other can of worms. What sounds best is not necessarily what is most accurate. Listening to beautiful recording through a high linearity monitoring SYSTEM (amps, speakers and room) is truly something to behold. But high linearity monitoring systems also reveal every bump and blemish. They offer no air brush or rose colored glasses to delude yourself with.

barefoot
 
barefoot.

What brand of componants do you use for your monitors. Locally availible we have peerles and audix. Im also interested in box design, as well. Im handy with the tools yaknow.
 
Re: barefoot.

darrin_h2000 said:
What brand of componants do you use for your monitors. Locally availible we have peerles and audix. Im also interested in box design, as well. Im handy with the tools yaknow.
Vifa, Scan Speak, Focal, Seas, Volt, JBL... depends on the specific implementation.

I did use Peerless drivers recently in home theater speakers I built for a friend who has some hearing loss from his Navy days. An array of cone tweeters and two wide spaced midbass drivers focuses the sound at his listening position, minimizing confusing floor and ceiling reflections (The "cocktail party" effect is often very difficult for people with hearing loss). Also his hearing is very limited above 10kHz, so the high frequency breakup the cone tweeters suffer from isn't an issue. Cost was a major consideration in this design, but I really enjoyed listening to them myself. The imaging was rock solid. And he's very happy he can finally hear what's going on when he's watching a movie. You can see a picture of them, plus some very old designs here. http://geocities.com/twbarefoot2000

barefoot
 
Very nice woodwork and craftmanship Barefoot.
 
barefoot said:
Your 8" Monitors Suck!

Yeah, that's right. I'm talkin' to you.

barefoot
Well barefoot, there's no question you know your speaker design, but I happen to LIKE the way my KRK V8s with 8" Kevlar bass drivers suck!!!

;)


Bruce
:)
 
Bruce,

You know I had to play it up a bit to get people’s attention.;)

And you see I never said excellent work can’t be done with conventional monitors. You and many others are obvious proof that it can. I just hope that I can help contribute to raising the bar even higher and help make recording and listening even better.:D

barefoot
 
barefoot said:
And since most midbass drivers are still producing significant output up to about 7kHz or 8kHz, they are clouding the most critical and sensitive frequency band to the human ear.
Peace:D

barefoot

Ehrm Barefoot, not wanting to sound as a real smart-ass, but the most critical and sensitive frequency band to the humar ear ranges from say 800Hz to 4kHz... (according to the Equal Loudness Contours). Just to set the record straight, o.k.?

cheerz and peace.
 
Hey barefoot,

I would be interested in building my own monitors. I'm pretty good at the soldering iron. Do you have any plans you could share with me??? Simple plans of the electric/electronic circuit in a monitor with 3 drivers... (1 for the highs, 1 for the mids, 1 for the basses...).

PM me if you have sometime.

Peace,
Beathoven

(P.S.: How much do you think it would cost me?)
 
barefoot, I went to your site.

They speakers you created look very nice indeed.
 
Speeddemon said:
Ehrm Barefoot, not wanting to sound as a real smart-ass, but the most critical and sensitive frequency band to the humar ear ranges from say 800Hz to 4kHz... (according to the Equal Loudness Contours). Just to set the record straight, o.k.?
If you read my post carefully you'll see I mention 8" drivers have more distortion than smaller drivers in the range from about 1kHz to 8kHz. So yes, I do profusely apologize for drawing a connection to the ear's most sensitive range when the approximate lower frequency limit of my model misses your etched in stone 800Hz value by an astronomical 1/3 octave. :rolleyes: ;)
Beathoven said:
Do you have any plans you could share with me??? Simple plans of the electric/electronic circuit in a monitor with 3 drivers... (1 for the highs, 1 for the mids, 1 for the basses...).
Sorry, I really don't have any simple monitor plans laying around. If I did, I would gladly share them. Some of the kits I've mentioned in other posts offer good values for DIY.
SPINSTERWUN said:
barefoot, I went to your site.
They speakers you created look very nice indeed.
Thanks Spin:D

barefoot
 
Sorry, I really don't have any simple monitor plans laying around. If I did, I would gladly share them. Some of the kits I've mentioned in other posts offer good values for DIY.

Do you have complicated ones so? :D

Well... If you could share *ANY* 3 driver plan with me I would be rather happy.

Thanks in advance,
Beathoven
 
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