As Roguetitan rightly says you'll need nut & bridge will need work. The nuts on the cheaper models tend to have sharp edges & bust strings easily & prematurely. Neat, tidy, tiny sanding/filing as in a guitar nut will make a load of difference. I'd suggest getting the bridge set up professionally - it's not expensive - as it is crucial to the thing working - whilst getting that done I'd also suggest getting fine tuners installed - also not expensive.
Bow, peg grit, spare strings - all essential.
I guess I got really lucky.... My low-end cello one came with fine tuners. I wouldn't buy a cello without them. I did have to put some graphite on one because it was sticking pretty badly near the center. Beyond that, though, no problems there.
I've had the Pirastro strings on it for two years (occasional playing), and they haven't broken yet, so I'm not worried about my nut. Ideally, yeah, it probably should be rounded a little more, but it isn't sharp enough to make it worth the effort of filing it down.
The reason my factory A strings broke is because they A. came with a fairly significant bend in them from the factory, and B. were single, unwound steel strings, about half the thickness they should have been. Yikes! When I say the stock strings are crap, I really mean it.
I replaced the snapped string (which snapped while bringing it up to pitch) with a Thomastik from a local store and the tone was so many orders of magnitude better that I decided to replace the whole set. I chose the strings I did because they were inexpensive and more mellow than the Thomastik (which was a little bright for the instrument).
The stock bow was functional, but a little on the light side for my taste and the hair didn't hold rosin well (maybe synthetic?), so I upgraded that with an inexpensive carbon fiber bow with better quality hair. I don't known what kind of ultra-light wood they used for the stock bow, but the carbon fiber bow is heavier, which I like.
