What is a Soundboard? (Vocal Booth)

B

BeatMakerVett

New member
My friend had told me all i need for the materials for the booth but there was one thing he had told me that im unclear of.

Its called A soundboard? What the hell is that. :confused:
 
To StudioMaster

Well this is what he wrote in the email...

"keep it simple. u r not gaonna get true sound proofing-just the ability to make a clean recording.




after u put up the stud wall, put the sound board on the interior side of the studs.
if you can tap an outlet, run 1 into the int. of the booth. also run the path for your wires/mic panel.
then sheet rock the interior. once u finish that, sheetrock the outside wall. in the diag. wall you need to frame out a space for the glass. u can use glass or plexiglass/lexan."

Do you know he could be meaning after reading what he wrote to me?
 
Soundboard is a poor mans absorber panel. And it doesn't do anything if used as a layer BEHIND drywall(sheetrock) except possably dampen the drywall. If anything, use two layers of drywall for mass, with joints overlapped, caulked, taped and mudded. And if you haven't built this yet, this may help you understand a principle or two. Note how TWO leaf systems have a better rating than 3 and 4 leaf assemblies.


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And where would i get this "SoundBoard stuff? oh and can i just add the soundboard on both sides of the stud instead of just the interior side? What that help a bit. And when you said add another layer of dry wall, so what you mean is on the outer layer put instead of one wall of sheetrock put two and then put the soundboard and then one layer of sheet rock?

oh yea and what you said about make it mudded and stuff i dont know what you mean man. This will be my first booth and im not really up on carpentry so to the simplest terms.
 
Lumber yards sell Soundboard. It looks like Masonite that got wet. About 1/2" thick in 4'x8' sheets. Usually used when putting wood floors over concrete in multi-family buildings. I used some in my studio on the floors and walls. It is also used in some public schools as bulliten boards. It's a cellulose product rather than cork.
 
RICK FITZPATRICK said:
Soundboard is a poor mans absorber panel. And it doesn't do anything if used as a layer BEHIND drywall(sheetrock) except possably dampen the drywall. If anything, use two layers of drywall for mass, with joints overlapped, caulked, taped and mudded. And if you haven't built this yet, this may help you understand a principle or two. Note how TWO leaf systems have a better rating than 3 and 4 leaf assemblies.


partitions2c_663_146.gif
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I love that image, Rick, have you jsut made that part of your sig these days?
 
I love that image, Rick, have you jsut made that part of your sig these days?
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:D Well, since this forum mod and owner REFUSE to acknowlege my multiple requests for a series of "sticky" threads, I have no other choice but to repeat typical important principles for the unelightened. I could link all kinds of stuff, but I'm growing tired of repeating the same shit over and over. Most of the "experts" have vacated the place too, for the same reason I bet. :rolleyes:
But here is one more try at helping.. :rolleyes:
And where would i get this "SoundBoard stuff?
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NO! NO! NO!

Apparently you didn't understand me. Let me put it this way. Soundboard is USELESS for building assemblies with "soundproofing" in mind. Now I'll say it again. DRYWALL is your friend as it is the BEST bang for the buck MASS. Multiple layers is the cheapest way to add mass to a wall,ceiling, or even a floor if covered with OSB or ply. But you can get better results if ONE LEAF is decoupled from the other leaf by double wall assemblys, staggered stud, or Resiliant Channel or Risc clip isolators. However, for novice builders, and small projects such as a booth, I'd suggest adding a layer or two to the booth interior, a SOLID CORE door with door seals or weatherstripping, a threshold with rubber seal, and caulking between the door jamb/stud prior to installing casing trim. Remember though, anytime you add a layer of drywall, your door jamb is now TOO NARROW, and you need to compensate with a casing filler.

Now for the bad news. Since sound propagates structurally through a building, as well as via the air, adding TEN layers MAY do no good under some circumstances, since you are decoupling NOTHING. For instance, if traffic rumble is a problem, or any low frequency environmental noise is transmitting into the house, usually it is transmitted STRUCTURALLY. Unless you decouple the booth interior leaf, this type of noise is usually impossible to negate totally simply by adding mass to the existing leaf. However, you may not need this depth of solution. But one thing ALL booths require is VENTILATION.

You see, when you "soundproof" a space, you "airproof" it as well. A small booth will quickly become very warm, with even one light and a human being, it can become uncomfortable not to mention the air becomeing unbreathable within minutes. But when you penetrate the envelope for supply and return ducts from a ventilation source, you now provide a flanking path for the sound you tried so hard to isolate the mic from....hence, your journey begins for answers to these delimas. WHAM BAM thankyou mam vocal booths are ok, but you tell me then...whats the point of isolation if it DOESN"T WORK?
 
Rick, i want to plasterboard(drywall)my walls, and have found acoustic plasterboard. I remember reading something in here one time, that it makes no difference acoustically or for transmission loss. If this is so then why is it called acoustic plasterboard? How can they get away with calling it something it's not?
 
Ohh it's called sound resistant plasterboard. Would that be better than standard plasterboard? It is said to be a lot denser, one company claims it to be 45% more dense than standard plasterboard. Also, my shed will have three leaves, designed it before i knew, outer is tongue and groove on OBS, decoupled from the inner standard tongue and groove shed with insulation in the void, and then on the studs for the shed will be nailed the plasterboard. Would i be better to try and fill between the tongue and groove shed and plasterboard with sand to add mass, and basically to keep it to 2 leaves?
 
If this is so then why is it called acoustic plasterboard? How can they get away with calling it something it's not?
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I don't believe they are calling it anything to do with "acoustics" per se. If I'm not mistaken, they are refering to its STC qualities, not acoustical...as in GREAT SOUND :D
Hello Pandamonk. Well, let me state right now, I am certainly no expert on this. And after reading some info here

http://www.quietsolution.com/html/test_reports.html
I'm sure they have a right to call it "Quietrock". But in reference to HR enthusiasts on a budget, I'm sure that multiple layers of standard 5/8" drywall is the best bang for the buck. Afterall, I believe this stuff is MUCHO EXPENSIVE!! :eek: :rolleyes: And probably difficult to source too. I'm also pretty sure, that for some of the types shown in the link, you have to hire a QUALIFIED constractor to get it as well. Although, don't quote me on that. But here is some other opinions on the subject.

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/search.php?mode=results

Maybe Rod could chime in on this because I'm SURE he has a QUALIFIED opinion as opposed to my UNQUALIFIED opinion. ;)
 
Also, my shed will have three leaves, designed it before i knew, outer is tongue and groove on OBS, decoupled from the inner standard tongue and groove shed with insulation in the void, and then on the studs for the shed will be nailed the plasterboard. Would i be better to try and fill between the tongue and groove shed and plasterboard with sand to add mass, and basically to keep it to 2 leaves?
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Draw a plan section detail through the exterior wall showing what you intend to build. Then I'll comment on it. Ok? :)
 
I have everything from this built, apart from the plasterboard. This is not for isolating drums, just for control room, and instruments such as acoustic guitar, vocals etc. And these do not need to be fully isolated, as the neighbours, although close(around 5m away), have an older house with thick(brick i'm guessing) walls and double glazing etc.
 

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pandamonk said:
I have everything from this built, apart from the plasterboard. This is not for isolating drums, just for control room, and instruments such as acoustic guitar, vocals etc. And these do not need to be fully isolated, as the neighbours, although close(around 5m away), have an older house with thick(brick i'm guessing) walls and double glazing etc.
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Panda,

You're right - it is a 3 leaf system - and it will suffer due to that 3rd leaf - especially with that small cavity you shouw on the inside.

I wouldn't reccomend sand in the cavity - that get's pretty messy and is very difficult to fill the entire cavity with- BUT - you can effectively turn this into a 2 leaf system through the use of expansive foam.

I don't mean the garbage they sell at Home Despot - but rather the medium density products they sell for commercial use.

Here's a link to some Dow Chemical products:

http://www.dow.com/buildingproducts/frothpak/prod_config.htm

The low rise product with the 2.25lb density is a pretty good bet.... (FROTH-PAK 160).

This will provide a pretty effective bond between the innner and outer skins - as well as a complete air passage barrier.......

If you finish the construction of your walls you can install this through a small hole at the top of the 1st layer of inner drywall.

BTW - I would reccomend at least 2 layers of drywall on that innner surface - and you may need even more to gain any real degree of isolation with the lack of mass on the exterior wall assembly.

Sincerely,

Rod
 
RICK FITZPATRICK said:
:eek: :eek: :eek: GADZOOKS!! Rod, you are a genious! :D
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I agree! i'll hopefully have enought funds for something like this. What degree of isolation should i expect doing it the way i am? And how much should i expect with the expansive foam, and 2nd layer of drywall? Also how much would that expansive foam cost if I'm doing a 14x8 shed?
 
pandamonk said:
I agree! i'll hopefully have enought funds for something like this. What degree of isolation should i expect doing it the way i am? And how much should i expect with the expansive foam, and 2nd layer of drywall? Also how much would that expansive foam cost if I'm doing a 14x8 shed?
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what size is that interior stud frame?

Rod
 
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