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Chinaman

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What are some good trem systems for huge divebombs and mad pull-ups?


I've got the Lo-TRSII on a few of my Ibanez guitars (which I find go out of tune after anything other than a little vibrato), and I think an Edge on my Universe reissue which is pretty good.

When bending a note on the Lo-TRSIIs, the bridge moves a little so I have to bend a little harder to reach the note I'm aiming for. No problem there, but if I hold the bend and hit another string, the second note is a little out of tune. It's a bit of a problem when bending a note to unisen with another... On the Universe, the bridge tends to stay put a little better so my ears don't hear much of a problem.

I'm not looking to replace any bridges yet, but one day I will so I thought I'd start asking around now. I know when that day comes some body modifications may be necessary to fit the new bridge.


Any experiences with the Lo-Pro, EdgePro II, ZR or any other floating trem systems I should try out? btw, I don't rest my hand on the bridge.

Thanks,
Mike
 
An adjustment on the springs tension might help with the "bending to unison" problem...or maybe they sell heavier springs for your model.
 
I have a Floyd-Rose on one of my guitars and it never used to go out of tune - even with really extreme dive-bombs etc.

I stopped using the guitar though as I found changing strings far too much hassle (and I don't really use the trem effect anymore). Now I stick with my hard-tailed LP Studio :)
 
Haven't had a problem with strings breaking and I don't mind the time it takes to restring.

Except for a little vibrato, I stopped using it because of my problems keeping the strings in tune. When I want to do huge pull-ups and dives I've been using my Digitech Whammy II, but it's not quite the same. :(

I've managed to set the Lo-TRSII bridges so bending notes doesn't move as much, but I'm still going to replace them someday.
 
I've had a few different Floyd Rose systems. some better than others. You might also consider a Steinberger Bridge. You can whammy chords with that and they stay in tune. And you can lock them in.. sort of like a capo. EVH used on a lot on the 5150 album. Pretty cool.
 
For insane dive-bombs and pull ups, nothin' beats a "REAL" floyd! I'm a big fan of the "Original", but I've heard that the pro is real good as well, plus it's sort of "Low profile".

Changing strings is not that big a deal on with the floyd......here's the key(s)...

1. Always use the same brand and guage of string.

2. Change one string at a time.

The problems begin when you change guages and or brands.....although this is easialy remedeed, it's still a pain in the butt.

Rick
 
JR#97 said:
I've had a few different Floyd Rose systems. some better than others. You might also consider a Steinberger Bridge. You can whammy chords with that and they stay in tune. And you can lock them in.. sort of like a capo. EVH used on a lot on the 5150 album. Pretty cool.
Click to expand...

I had one of these on my Steinberger - greatest trem I ever played.
 
WERNER 1 said:
For insane dive-bombs and pull ups, nothin' beats a "REAL" floyd! I'm a big fan of the "Original", but I've heard that the pro is real good as well, plus it's sort of "Low profile".

Changing strings is not that big a deal on with the floyd......here's the key(s)...

1. Always use the same brand and guage of string.

2. Change one string at a time.

The problems begin when you change guages and or brands.....although this is easialy remedeed, it's still a pain in the butt.

Rick
Click to expand...

That's very good advice.
I'd like to bring my FR equiped guitar back into action, but can't for the life of me remember what guage strings to put on it :(
 
Codmate, if you didn't change guage since you bought it, chances are they're 9-42s. If you can, take them into a guitar shop and have them match the set.

The string guage, brand, and restringing procedure mentioned are all good advice. I'm sure a lot of people overlook that. For people that do change brands or gauges, I block the bridge into position so it won't move, restring and tune to pitch, then adjust the screws for the tension springs until the block just about falls out. From there minor adjustments to tuning (if at all) and it should be good to go... You can stuff something between the bridge and body like a crunched up cigarette pack, folded paper, or whatever. Or in the underside you can use a pen, block of wood, battery, or whatever you can find or make that is the right size.


Finding a trem system that will keep it's tuning best after use is what I'm after. I find that after a big pull-up or divebomb the bridge doesn't always go back to where it started off so I have to take a second to manually bump it back into position or use the fine tuners to retune (usually both). It sucks when it happens mid-song and I know the Lo-TRSII system isn't a great bridge so I'm thinking they'll have to be replaced someday. I've heard it had something to do with the mass of the bridge or something like that, but I dunno.


So far I'm thinking of getting an Edge like my Universe, but I wanted to see if there were any other good ones that you guys use, like the Steinberger that JR#97 and Phyl mentioned (I've heard of it but haven't actually seen one but I'll keep an eye out). I had a Kahler of some sort on a Charvel that I used to have, but it was set against the body so it couldn't bend notes up, only down. I'll also look into the Spyder as recommended by Scottboyher. When I first started playing a friend had a Floyd Rose that he was having all sorts of trouble with, but that was probably setup issues. We were both new to the guitar after all. I'll revisit that bridge too.


Thanks for the suggestions so far, keep 'em coming! :)
 
Floyd - Changing Guages or brands.

Changing Brands of strings, but still using the same guage is the least dramatic process to deal with. The fix is pretty easy, just a bit time consuming.

Basically, when you are done changeing strings, and it's tuned to pitch, look at the bridge....is it level with the body of the guitar (Parallel)? If so then you go lucky! :) IF it's leaning forward (Rear of bridge is elevated), you'll need to tighten the two screws that attatch the spring claw bracket to the guitar body. Just tighten them a 1/4 - 1/2 turn, do not tighten them so that the bridge is level as you will have gone to far. Once you've tightend the two screws retune the guitar.(This may take a while as you have to keep going back and forth with the tuning to compensate for spring tension.) Once you are able to get the guitar tuned again, recheck the bridge......is it level? IF the rear of the Bridge is still elevated, then repeat the above process (Maybe only using 1/8th - 1/4 turn this time as you are probably getting close) If the rear of the bridge is sinking down into the recessed cavity of the body you've went too far and will need to back the two screws off a little bit, again, 1/8 - 1/4 turn.........Then retune and recheck........You just have to keep doing this until you get it where you want it..........and it will take a bit of time and patience, but the results will be worth it. :)

Rick
 
Yeah, when the bridge does not sit in the proper position after tuning it can take a while to set it so it does. This is why I block the bridge into the correct place, tune, then adjust the tension strings so the block falls out, leaving the bridge where it should be. A lot faster and less headaches... for me, anyway.
 
Thanks very much for all the Floyd Rose advice - now I have something to do over the weekend I guess :)
 
you can get an old kramer for around $200 bucks with a real floyd. I believe they real floyds on all the floyd models in the early 80's
 
Uh, hmm...

As I am some what an expert on 80's Kramers, I'd like to comment on the Kramer / Floyd thing....

Make sure if you are going to do this that you get the "Original Floyd" - Double Locking Trem>!!! There was a version that's called the Floyd Rose II that came out on alot of the Kramers and was not a very good unit. The Floyd Rose II can be identified pretty easially buy this: The balls of the strings stay ON the string, and the string feeds through the back of the Trem bridge by the fine tuners........This unit is not a true "Double Locking" trem......plus the "arm" design was real sucky on it.

The original Floyd Rose Double locking is still available today, and it's the one where you have to cut the balls of the strings off and then clamp them down with a Block/ Allenhead cap screw........This is the "Real deal" here.

Hope that helps.

Rick
 
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