Weak/No output on Tascam 48-OB

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Why is it necessary to replace the ICs, though? I thought the problem was limited to the relays.
 
Why is it necessary to replace the ICs, though? I thought the problem was limited to the relays.

It is, I decided to replace the opamp and cap simply for sound quality reasons, you really only need to touch the relay. I am also assuming that the boards in the 42 and 48 are similar.
 
It is, I decided to replace the opamp and cap simply for sound quality reasons, you really only need to touch the relay. I am also assuming that the boards in the 42 and 48 are similar.

The boards are identical, actually, according to the manual.

What difference did you notice after replacing the opamp and capacitor?
 
The boards are identical, actually, according to the manual.

What difference did you notice after replacing the opamp and capacitor?

Well, the original opamp likely dates from the late 70's/ early 80's and electrolytic's are not so good for audio path. Can I hear a difference, hard to say, I think it does sound better, I noticed a fuller sound compared to stock, but I did not A/B it, so who can say for sure. I was in there anyway, so I figured I'd replace those components while the iron was hot. :D
 
To find the initial problem, you need to do voltage and resistance measurements. Turning many pots is not the answer. It just complicates things.
 
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Ok here are some pics with the model number.

I also included a pic of the line out opamp replacement with new film cap that replaces the electrolytic.

If you go to Digikey and enter in the full model number of the part, it will take you right to it.

www.mastercontrolmedia.net/tascam/42relay.jpg

www.mastercontrolmedia.net/tascam/42opamp.jpg

As you can see I also socketed the relay and opamp for easy replacement if necessary.

Which relay did you replace it with? Can you give a link, or at least a model name/number?
 
Sorry, I was a little confused because, in your photo, you highlighted an IC instead of the relays.

Are K001 and K002 identical? Would I use the Hamlin HE721a2400 to replace both of them? The schematic and parts list gives two values for these relays, and it isn't clear if they are the same or not.

----

Edit: Mea Culpa. Is K003 the relay for -10dB operation?
 
Sorry, I was a little confused because, in your photo, you highlighted an IC instead of the relays.

Are K001 and K002 identical? Would I use the Hamlin HE721a2400 to replace both of them? The schematic and parts list gives two values for these relays, and it isn't clear if they are the same or not.

----

Edit: Mea Culpa. Is K003 the relay for -10dB operation?

The relays are different for -10 and +4, so they cannot be used for both applications. The relay you need is the one you mentioned and is K003 for -10.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...o_button&KeyWords=Hamlin+HE721a2400&x=34&y=21

You can disregard the OPAMP IC pic.
 
Good news!

The relays came in the mail today and I replaced K003 on all of the amp cards. I played the test tape and every channel worked EXCEPT channel 1. I'm going to find out why, this weekend.

Still, 7 working channels is better than 4 working channels!
 
Good news!

The relays came in the mail today and I replaced K003 on all of the amp cards. I played the test tape and every channel worked EXCEPT channel 1. I'm going to find out why, this weekend.

Still, 7 working channels is better than 4 working channels!

Good news! I'm sure channel one will get going, maybe a faulty new relay?
 
Good news! I'm sure channel one will get going, maybe a faulty new relay?

I'm inclined to guess that I did something wrong, but I'll find out for sure this weekend. As always, I'll trace it from the mixer to the tape deck, and then pull the card if it is indeed the source of the problem.
 
Finished!

YEAH!!

I replaced the relay on the card that was plugged in to channel 1. Good thing I ordered 10 relays, and good thing I socketed them instead of soldering them to the pcb.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!!
 
Vince, thanks so much for all the help to Jeff on this.

Jeff, I've been (very much on the periphery) following the thread just to see how things turned out. I highly suspected the relays...they were working fine back here but they do seem to go bad out pretty quickly when the time comes and simultaneously at that, and the symptoms you were experienceing were identical to those of my 58.

Good job and what a relief.

And, yeah, Vince is certainly right about older 'lytic caps in the signal path and the (IIRC) 4558 opamps on the 48 amp cards are late 70's vintage, but, a word of advice, don't go there. At least not now. Get things operating in the studio. Do some music. The 48 sounds great in stock trim so opamp upgrades are for a rainy day IMHO. The opportunity will still be there later. Don't get distracted.

The 4558 opamp was used prolifically...a predecessor to the very popular 072, but the 4558 is slower with higher self-noise and distortion specs. Typically what opamp upgrades might give you is a "tighter" sound (because the chip is "faster"...has a higher slew rate which is basically a measure of the dynamic latency between input and output of the chip and the tighter the ouput signal matches the input the more accurate the sound will be), and lower noise and distortion..."cleaner". BUT, can you hear the difference? I love Vince's answer to the question about why he did it and I betcha he's right about the result (what chip did you put in, Vince?) that it sounds "fuller". And he is comfortable doing those swaps and he was "in there" already. I bet it could be backed up by measurement too, but it all depends on the system, program material, how the deck is setup...there are so many variables and let's not forget that any time you take an iron to PC board you are entering risk. So I've learned that, for me, it is really important to assess the need or reasoning behind an opamp upgrade. I specifically chose NOT to replace the 4558 chips in my Tascam RS-20B...Dr. ZEE turned me around on that one. The RS-20B is a nice sound spring 'verb unit...smooth and smeary. Well, how much of that smooth smeariness is attributed to the 4558's? I have no idea but if it sounds good why go messing with it. OTOH I will experiment with some different chips on my CRL SEP400 multiband compressors. Why? These will be used for mastering and I want them to be as accurate transparent as possible, and they are loaded with 4558's at present. Other factors to consider is that ALL the opamps were socketed at the factory so opamp upgrades are easy and relatively risk free to try out. I DID upgrade specific opamps on the two channels of my Tascam M-__ mixer when I refurbished them and the result left me longing for the sound of the stock channels...I have done little more on this yet (as far as A/B'ing or trying different combinations of chips), but maybe the slower noisier stock chips just sounded more natural. I'm having an issue with monitoring off the board right now as I'm doing some more work using it more mixing, but the soundstage sounds kind of choked. It might be the room or maybe I should shift my focus from upgrading the mono strip input and ouput chips to looking at the control room and stereo out opamps and most importantly the summing amps...for another day, year or decade. You likely get the point.

It seems to me that a lot of the ideal behind opamp upgrades is to get a more clean accurate sound, and, again, a lot of what we like about analog is there are smooth distortion artifacts...its not "clean" and "accurate" and that's a part of what sounds pleasing...the circuitry adds something to the source material that is pleasing to us as enthusiasts and so it seems counterpoint to try and erradicate that, though many open reel machines are put on a pedestal because of how "accurate" they are. This is application and engineer dependent IMO. Many models of Studer machines seem to be regarded this way. Loved by many for their sophisticated and precise transports and accurate reproduction, while others call them "sterile" sounding. The ears of the beholder...But for somebody (for instance) who does analog to digital transfers, they are going to want an analog machine that effects the source tape signal as little as possible, vs. somebody like me who wants "mojo" added to drum tracks.

Other things to consider with opamp upgrades:

  • Often times newer opamps draw more current. Not a big deal if you are doing one here and one there on a smaller system, but can become a real consideration if you are going through and doing a whole mixer...might be too much for the PSU.
  • Newer "faster" chips have the propensity to go into oscillation and it is a common practice to put a film "bypass" cap between the + and - input pins on the chip to prevent this from happening. How deep does the rabbit hole go...

Stay the course, sir. ;)
 
Hey SB, yeah I'm glad it all worked out, these relays seem to fail almost simultaneously, like mine did in my 42. As you say, while I was at it, I replaced the opamps as I had a few lying around and some nice film caps that fit perfectly, so I decided what the heck, may as well try it. Right now I am using LM4562's but also had some opa2134 and AD826. The sound is great, but as you say the stock machines sounds great too and unless you are comfortable swapping out chips, should be left alone. :)
 
Cool lo-fi.

Just out of curiosity, how did you remove the old relays?

Myself, I cut the legs off the old relay and then just heated the pad, slid out the cut pins and later cleaned up the holes with some de-soldering wick. Just curious if this was the easiest way in case I decide to do the balanced outs next, I did purchase the relays for those as well and can share the part number if you are interested.
 
Cool lo-fi.

Just out of curiosity, how did you remove the old relays?

Myself, I cut the legs off the old relay and then just heated the pad, slid out the cut pins and later cleaned up the holes with some de-soldering wick. Just curious if this was the easiest way in case I decide to do the balanced outs next, I did purchase the relays for those as well and can share the part number if you are interested.

I did the same as you on most of the relays but found that it was too difficult AND I damaged the PCBs slightly. I also didn't know how to use a solder sucker. I figured out that heading the lead on the "top" side of the PCB and using the solder sucker on the "bottom" side worked best and caused the least damage. After I sucked most of the solder out, I heated up the leads again and carefully pried the relay off the board, one lead at a time. Afterword, I cleaned up with a swab and alcohol and removed any remaining solder crumbs with an xacto knife.
 
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