Weak Guitar Output - Any thoughts?

aaroncomp

aaroncomp

1-20-2009
Okay, I just picked up my Les Paul to lay down a few tracks and nada. I'm running into a Firepod through my PodXT. I checked everything and finally realized it's something inside my guitar. Basically, when I run it through a regular amp, I have to turn it up rather high to get a modest volume. Before I start playing around inside of this, any particular thing I should aim for first? I must mention that my LP has recently been under cooler than room temps, but not freezing. Anyway, thanks for the help. Hopefully I'll be able to lay down something tonight.

Oh yeah, 1996 Les Paul Studio Lite - if that matters.
 
A bad solder joint
A bad pot
A bad cable
A broken pickup winding (check the DC resistance, and compair to Seymour Duncans Tone Chart. Even if it is not a SD, that will give you an idea of the proper range. If it wrong, it will be well outside that range)
A bad jack


Basically, just look around first. If there is something wrong, you can usually find it by looking, or else by measuring everything with a multi-meter (you do have one, right? Every electric musician should have a multi-meter, and should know how to use it).


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Check your pickup height. Fret the highest note on 1st and 6th string and measure the distance between the top of the pole piece and the bottom of the string. A good basic measurement is 1/8" for the bridge pickup and 3/32" for the neck pickup. Don't use these measurements for single coils. Their magnetic pull is much higher and that can cause intonation problems and 'wolf tones'. If that doesn't appear to be the problem, go back to Light's thread and start going throught the list. Good luck.
 
Light: How about a tutorial on using a multimeter for guitar and amp applications? I can check my car battery but I admit I don't know how to check pots, etc. I bet alot of folks would be very greatful.

rpe
 
rpe said:
Light: How about a tutorial on using a multimeter for guitar and amp applications? I can check my car battery but I admit I don't know how to check pots, etc. I bet alot of folks would be very greatful.

rpe
Click to expand...



Well, on a guitar it is really all testing for continuity and resistance. For pots, you set the meter for resistance, and check the outside two terminals of the pot. It should be within tolerence (250k pots are usually somewhere between 220k and 280k, 500k's are usually between 460k and 530k). If you've got a intermitent crackle, test between one of the outside terminals and the wiper (the middle terminal). See if there is a smooth transistion as you turn the pot. Remember, though, that audio tapper pots are algorythmic. Crackles are actually easier to listen for than measure for, but it can be useful sometimes.

For pickups, check from ground to hot, making sure humbuckers are not tapped. Look up the Tone Chart on Seymour Duncan's site, and see if yours is in the right range. If it is drastically high or low, you have a problem, usually a broken winding wire, which means you need a new pickup or (if the pickup is valuable) a rewind.

Other than that, continuity checks to make sure your wires are all in good shape. Everything else, really, is just visual inspection and audio inspection (turn the pots and flip the switches and listen - if it doesn't sound right, then clean or change the part).


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
The most common problem is either a cable or connection at guitar jack. Temps rarely effect wiring on guitar. Bumps can shake things loose.

If both pickups have same problem, that reduces the likelyhood of a pickup wiring issue.

Others mentioned string height, which can lower volume.

Also run the volume knobs back and fourth a number of times. Dirty pots can cause volume problems, and when you move up and down you may hear static, which is a clue to a dirty pot.

Ed
 
I guess I'm a simple guy. The first thing I'd check, given the temperature issue mentioned was whether there was condensation that could have resulted in surface corrosion on the output jack. It doesn't take long for enough crud to get on there to make a difference in continuity.

I heard some guy say that a gun cleaning brass barrel brush is great for cleaning jacks on guitars and amps.
 
You can get a jack cleaning tool at the music store or online music store. Plug it in and give it a few spins. It's great for those old Rockman jacks that always seem to rust no matter what you do or where they're kept. Stupid question: Are your cables correct, and are they in good condition? You would be amazed how a shielded cable between you amp and speakers, or an un-shielded speaker cable in the wrong place in your signal chain can kill your sound.
 
Does it use a battery? My lead guitarist has a built in sustain, and it burns through batteries like nothing else.
 
Light said:
Well, on a guitar it is really all testing for continuity and resistance. For pots, you set the meter for resistance, and check the outside two terminals of the pot. It should be within tolerence (250k pots are usually somewhere between 220k and 280k, 500k's are usually between 460k and 530k). If you've got a intermitent crackle, test between one of the outside terminals and the wiper (the middle terminal). See if there is a smooth transistion as you turn the pot. Remember, though, that audio tapper pots are algorythmic. Crackles are actually easier to listen for than measure for, but it can be useful sometimes.

For pickups, check from ground to hot, making sure humbuckers are not tapped. Look up the Tone Chart on Seymour Duncan's site, and see if yours is in the right range. If it is drastically high or low, you have a problem, usually a broken winding wire, which means you need a new pickup or (if the pickup is valuable) a rewind.



Other than that, continuity checks to make sure your wires are all in good shape. Everything else, really, is just visual inspection and audio inspection (turn the pots and flip the switches and listen - if it doesn't sound right, then clean or change the part).

thanks Light.
Click to expand...
 
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