Vocal/Amp Booth

[jjr0319]

i have a small 15 x 20 (estimate) room with my computer, tv, music stuff, and some furniture. i was wondering how involved (money and work-wise) it would be to build a soundproof booth big enough for one person or a guitar amp (not at the same time). I would like to build something that may be removed if i move out. the guitar amp is a fender hot rod deville 212, so its not that big. are there any websites with plans or drawings?

thanks in advance.

 

[knightfly]

Not sure just how "soundproof" you need, but the only plan I've seen on the net is one for sale at dawboxpro.com - You can buy readymade knock-down booths for big $$$ at places like whisperroom.com, but you're looking at anywhere from $4k and up depending on options.

If you build one, you need to keep basic sound proofing techniques in mind - sometimes less is more, by quite a lot.

Here's an example of different wall constructions, and their STC values - look closely, you'll see that you can get as much as 23 dB difference in isolation with the EXACT same amount of materials.

http://www.ethanwiner.com/misc-content/walls.gif

Compare the 40 dB wall with the 63 dB wall -

I started a while back to design just what you're looking for, but keep getting side-tracked - as much demand as there seems to be, I may end up also charging a small fee - there's a lot more work involved in a good sound proof (and affordable) design than it seems... Steve

 

[VTgreen81]

what about a door?

Thanks for the link showing the cross sections. I've read descriptions, but as they say, a picture's worth a thousand words.
What would you use for a door? Would a fire door work? Or would you build a door using the same design used for the walls?
I've plenty more Q's but this will do for now. I'm trying to decide if I can afford to do things right. (I've got plenty of shorts but no silk suits).

 

[knightfly]

"I've got plenty of shorts but no silk suits" - gee, I wonder where THAT reference came from :=)

Doors can be a real problem, sometimes moreso than windows. A heavy fire door can give a fair amount of isolation, but if it includes an air space inside, then you won't gain much by adding a second door later if needed. A solid core exterior door is several dB better than a hollow core (nearly useless) - the same physics apply to doors as walls - hermetic seal, double leaf, widest possible air gap, maximum mass, preferably DIFFERENT mass per leaf if using double door...

Sealing is one of the big problems. If you're willing/able to live with stepping OVER a threshold, you can put soft foam weatherstrip on one edge of a 1 x 2, and just caulk/screw it down across the door bottom gap so that the door slightly compresses the foam when closed. This can be done by closing the door, then pushing the piece of wood up against the door bottom firmly, and drilling the screw holes - then, mark where the piece goes by running a pencil line along the edge, open the door, put a bead of caulk about 1/2" in from each edge, and screw it down. You can use the same method around the other three sides of the door.

If you can swing it, and need your doors to be as good as the walls, you can do double doors and double wall frames, as long as each assembly has only one center of mass and they are separated by nothing solid, only insulation, air, or at most neoprene in limited spots (for sway brackets)

The alternative I'm aware of is several hundred $ door bottom kits from places like

http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/doors/seal_kits.asp

Or several thousand $$$ complete door assemblies from these guys or similar -

http://www.overly.com/doorCo/Products/Acoustical/index.cfm

Depending on your floor plan, you might be able to get double duty from an airlock - it could be a fair vox booth and a good isolator between two other rooms... Steve