Martin d18
New member
I have a problem with the control buttons on my Teac A3340S. How do I get to the buttons to see what's going on. The meters light up but the solenoid will not operate to start the replay function. Who has the answer?
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Teac A3340S issues
- Thread starter Martin d18
- Start date
rob aylestone
Well-known member
Laced up properly?
Martin d18
New member
Laced up properly?if laced up properly means threaded correctly from reel to reel then yes. It’s like the unit is not getting power but it is. I’ve had one of these for years but have never been inside one until now. I bought this one used and I’m trying to refurbish it. The motor is turning and the driver motor is running but it won’t engage. The solenoid is not activating. Does it have a power source separate from the motors in vue meters?
skywaveTDR
Active member
The switches on those decks which I have worked on almost my entire professional life do not fail all that often. Being I was a Teac Lead Technician in Chicago I only had to change one Microswitch in the 47 years I have worked on these and I can tell you it was no fun. I have a better idea of how to work on them now with some tricks learned along the years. The most common issue with no functions is due to Dummy plug being out or the wrong one. Check with DVM on ohm or diode test the pin 1 and 11 short no others.
Second the next most common this is the right tension arm. Does it go below 3 o'clock? If it does the the stop is broken and often when that happen by a hit of some kind it can break the microswitches attached to the cam drum the arm is attached to. The current Microswitch is called VX51A2 from Omron and Mouser and Digikey usually have them. They are not regular switches but 50g pressure switches. If the two above are out then try Newark or farnell depending on your country location.
Another cause is that the Pinch Roller linkage is sticky due to bad grease- we used to call it Fish Eye grease as most things in Japan were obtained in some way from Fish. In any event, the linkage is taken apart and the old grease cleaned out and I use Lubriplate 105 to regrease. In all the years I have worked on these a Lubriplate 105 grease linkage has never come in a second time.
Want to know a secret? Oil the capstan bearing by removing the shaft and putting 7-9 drops of AMSoil Signature synthetic oil in the bearing and on shaft as well as down motor shafts- the oil tube take too long as they have decayed foam in them. I take the motor off clean the motor pulley with brasso not sandpaper and then oil the motor with front shaft sticking up and then the back shaft sticking up (Fan will need to come off). If you do this you are likely to get better wow and flutter figures than when it was new as this oil is superior to any I have tested in the last years- I use it exclusively and get wow and flutter from BR20 at .0135%, A2000R= .02% and X1000R= .023%. Not all machines respond the same it all depends on wear and other factors. The oil weight is 0 W30 that I use.
The power supply should be recapped on this unit as a minimum- I do them all the time as a start. It has been a long time since 1978 for caps.
Second the next most common this is the right tension arm. Does it go below 3 o'clock? If it does the the stop is broken and often when that happen by a hit of some kind it can break the microswitches attached to the cam drum the arm is attached to. The current Microswitch is called VX51A2 from Omron and Mouser and Digikey usually have them. They are not regular switches but 50g pressure switches. If the two above are out then try Newark or farnell depending on your country location.
Another cause is that the Pinch Roller linkage is sticky due to bad grease- we used to call it Fish Eye grease as most things in Japan were obtained in some way from Fish. In any event, the linkage is taken apart and the old grease cleaned out and I use Lubriplate 105 to regrease. In all the years I have worked on these a Lubriplate 105 grease linkage has never come in a second time.
Want to know a secret? Oil the capstan bearing by removing the shaft and putting 7-9 drops of AMSoil Signature synthetic oil in the bearing and on shaft as well as down motor shafts- the oil tube take too long as they have decayed foam in them. I take the motor off clean the motor pulley with brasso not sandpaper and then oil the motor with front shaft sticking up and then the back shaft sticking up (Fan will need to come off). If you do this you are likely to get better wow and flutter figures than when it was new as this oil is superior to any I have tested in the last years- I use it exclusively and get wow and flutter from BR20 at .0135%, A2000R= .02% and X1000R= .023%. Not all machines respond the same it all depends on wear and other factors. The oil weight is 0 W30 that I use.
The power supply should be recapped on this unit as a minimum- I do them all the time as a start. It has been a long time since 1978 for caps.
skywaveTDR
Active member
I did have a A3300SX deck one time operate intermittently. What was found out that the filter cap had opened and the solenoid would be getting half wave rectified AC. Then what happen is that when the timing of the buttpn press was at a peak of the sine wave it would activate- if at 50% or the ground portion it would not. A scope on the solenoid terminal told me what was happening. This is why I put new fresh caps on power supplies first as they are due. It is not that much cost and to wait for those caps to show themselves defective will not happen in a definite way but at many different times. I prefer to just freshen it up and the deck works like new. The play EQ switch usually needs cleaning now too- that is done by cracking open the switch and spraying Deoxit in it and then working it 40 times. It is the switch next to the speed switch and I think it has red and green wires that go down to the Audio cards.
skywaveTDR
Active member
Well was it ever fixed? Was the remote dummy plug in? That is the most common reason that the deck does not work.