A Reel Person
It's Too Funky in Here!!!
...
Just to see when you record at 0VU that it gives you back 0VU on playback, with very little dropoff or variation. Without checking the book, I think the spec on that is +/- 1dB, which is pretty close, but any worn and used 244 that's not been calibrated since new will typically show -2dB~-3dB dropoff or more, which is not good. I've spent extra hours to get the record/repro levels to match exactly, and I mean exactly, and that in itself took me more time than normal, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to things like this. Not only that, but how clean the head is and very small variations in the tape itself will affect this readout a to very small degree. That's why getting it "perfect" is such a time suck and laborious issue, and even then things change the next time you demo it.
Also, as long as on your typical recorded material, guitar, bass, keyboard, you don't hear any fizziness enveloping the sound (which would be a dbx calibration anomaly), you're okay. Sometimes a sharp drum hit at a high level will produce this dbx pumping anomaly, which for the most part would be considered normal and vary on a case by case basis. I've typically skipped and glossed over dbx calibration when I did my internal adjustments, and I've had no problem with it so far. A long time ago I asked a TEAC in-house tech about it, and he said (para) 'you don't touch the dbx unless you have to',... and I'm fine with that. If I ever heard any issues, and I have very acute hearing, I'd just follow the book and dive into it, like any other calibration issue, there is a procedure and a remedy.
I agree though, if you said "back to factory spec", there will be an electronic calibration included in that, and I have no doubt they will be better and more efficient at that than any home rec'cer or layman just poking in the dark.
Just to see when you record at 0VU that it gives you back 0VU on playback, with very little dropoff or variation. Without checking the book, I think the spec on that is +/- 1dB, which is pretty close, but any worn and used 244 that's not been calibrated since new will typically show -2dB~-3dB dropoff or more, which is not good. I've spent extra hours to get the record/repro levels to match exactly, and I mean exactly, and that in itself took me more time than normal, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to things like this. Not only that, but how clean the head is and very small variations in the tape itself will affect this readout a to very small degree. That's why getting it "perfect" is such a time suck and laborious issue, and even then things change the next time you demo it.
Also, as long as on your typical recorded material, guitar, bass, keyboard, you don't hear any fizziness enveloping the sound (which would be a dbx calibration anomaly), you're okay. Sometimes a sharp drum hit at a high level will produce this dbx pumping anomaly, which for the most part would be considered normal and vary on a case by case basis. I've typically skipped and glossed over dbx calibration when I did my internal adjustments, and I've had no problem with it so far. A long time ago I asked a TEAC in-house tech about it, and he said (para) 'you don't touch the dbx unless you have to',... and I'm fine with that. If I ever heard any issues, and I have very acute hearing, I'd just follow the book and dive into it, like any other calibration issue, there is a procedure and a remedy.
I agree though, if you said "back to factory spec", there will be an electronic calibration included in that, and I have no doubt they will be better and more efficient at that than any home rec'cer or layman just poking in the dark.
