S
stevieb
Just another guy, really.
Scored an early'60's CB700 kit a while back, for next to nothing, it's only real problem was the wraps were cracking and buckling. Replacement wraps are something silly/stupid like $250 (been a while since I checked,) so I decided to try a different approach. The wraps came off super easy, leaving little residue, so I removed what glue that did stay behind with solvent, then sanded the outers of the shells and stained 'em red with wood stain from Rockler Hardware and Woodworking. I had a full gallon of auto polyurethane, and I tested some and found it hardens plenty well enough without hardener added. So, I BRUSHED on a coat, let it dry fully, then brushed on a second and third- coats #2 and 3 were done with a high-quality Purdy brush, which was ruined in the process but lasted long enough to complete the job.
After the poly dried/cured fully, I wet-sanded the shells with 240, then 600, then 1500 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, then buffed them with a high-speed automotive paint sander and liquid (not paste) white rubbing compound- the same basic method auto painters use.
It came out looking quite good. My target was a high-build poly coating, like is on a much newer, entry-level kit I have ("Borg by Zildjian" brand) and I did not get that much poly on the shells- but I am now glad it didn't work out that way. They have plenty of shine, in fact the finish looks more up-scale than the thick poly coating does, and perhaps the drums will sing better without so much poly on them. I am not fooling myself- I know these budget philippine mahogany drums won't sound as good as birch or maple DD or Gretsch, but I am thinking they may sound better than they did with the plastic, glued-on wraps. I'm mostly finished putting them back together, but need a few hardware parts, so have not tuned them, yet. One thing's fur sure- they look darn good.
I'd recommend this process to anyone who has the time and equipment, mostly that high-speed buffer, which was key in getting a high-gloss finish. Of course, if you wanted to maximize the drums' tone, you could go with nitrocellulose lacquer, but know that stuff is much more expensive, harmful to your health if you breathe the fumes, and VERY flamable, especially if you spray it.
After the poly dried/cured fully, I wet-sanded the shells with 240, then 600, then 1500 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, then buffed them with a high-speed automotive paint sander and liquid (not paste) white rubbing compound- the same basic method auto painters use.
It came out looking quite good. My target was a high-build poly coating, like is on a much newer, entry-level kit I have ("Borg by Zildjian" brand) and I did not get that much poly on the shells- but I am now glad it didn't work out that way. They have plenty of shine, in fact the finish looks more up-scale than the thick poly coating does, and perhaps the drums will sing better without so much poly on them. I am not fooling myself- I know these budget philippine mahogany drums won't sound as good as birch or maple DD or Gretsch, but I am thinking they may sound better than they did with the plastic, glued-on wraps. I'm mostly finished putting them back together, but need a few hardware parts, so have not tuned them, yet. One thing's fur sure- they look darn good.
I'd recommend this process to anyone who has the time and equipment, mostly that high-speed buffer, which was key in getting a high-gloss finish. Of course, if you wanted to maximize the drums' tone, you could go with nitrocellulose lacquer, but know that stuff is much more expensive, harmful to your health if you breathe the fumes, and VERY flamable, especially if you spray it.