Studio construction Help!!!!

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phreaknes@yahoo

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Ok here's what's happening. I've included a picture to help illustrate what I've got and what I need to do. In the pic you can see the 2 dark lines those represent thick concrete slabs as walls (I'm guessing a several feet thick) the other walls are metal studs. This is a basement studio that is under a childs room and a living room. My issues are…

How should I go about preventing the sound from the studio from getting upstairs and vise versa. My thinking is in both rooms for the ceiling between the joist (in this order)

1. tar paper
2. R14 insulation
3. z channel
4. 2 layers of .75" drywall
5. drop ceiling

Now all the walls I think can be z channel across the metal studs and 2 layers of drywall. I think that's going to be enough, or is it? Suggestions? Also the actual studio window any tips on what to look for what to plan for? Same with a studio door. In the end I'm going to farm the studio out to a couple of local people that real have some great music but no place to make the demo sound professional or close enough. I'm going to start to finish the rooms this weekend and I would love to get some input before I proceed. I've been on this board for a while but never really posted. (because I feel I don't know enough about something to post an answer) but now I'm in need of advice
 

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well all the walls are studded with metal studs (what thickness im not sure of what ever one gets at menards but it seems to be middle of the raod thicknes) the shared control room / vocal room is curently wood studs but will be replaced with metal soon. another question would be how would I use Z Channel on the walls. will it improve my "STC" value? also the back and side walls are REALLY THICK! i'm thinking 2ft thick on the long wall on the bottom and the back wall more than 15ft slab. a couple of questions

Do you mud the joints just like normal or is there some special trick that should be used?

how do you intergrate a drop ceiling into the picture below?

that window look like pretty serious construction are is there anymore info or tip on how to pull it off? can it be made with metal studs? what is gysum cladding?

Thanks for your propt reply.


this is the wall config I want to go with but with z channel on the inner walls
 
Firstly I think that this is the image you need

http://www.saecollege.de/reference_material/images/Wall 1.gif

The sound will transfer through the studs (metal or wood) to the pasterboard on the other side. The Z channel (furring channel, resilient channel) will reduce the transfer to the the other plastersheet.

Gypsum is Plasterboard.

What's the problem with a drop ceiling??

The window construction isn't complex. The aim is the have one sheet of glass attached to one wall and the other sheet to the second wall - in a two wall construction. Otherwise (single wall) the two sheets of glas must be angled to each other and of differing thickness.

cheers
john
 
for that pic what do you think the STC rating would be if it were metal studs, double layer drywall on both sides, z channeled and insolated?:eek:

the problem with the drop ceiling is that there will be 2 sheets of drywall there. how do you mount the drop ceiling rack just hang it to the dryway instead of the stud? also its going to reduce the celing hight also which i'm trying to avoid (less that 7' ceiling's) do you have any other sugestions to sound proof the ceiling with minimal ceiling height reduction?

ok i get it, build 2 walls couple inches apart angle the glass and your done .... basicly (be prepared for more question when i start builing this weekend :D )

Doors:
Are you kidding do i really need 2 solid core doors with custom door seals and so on? can one do? any suggestion on a simple but effective alternative? how about an exterior glass door?

BTW Thank you very much on your help so far with the fast responses i've posted on other boards and i've got responses in the range from "just hang moving capets on normal walls" to "no normal or smart human would do it themselves call a contractor to do it right " once again thank you
 
A solid core door will stop some of the noise BUT not all of it. By using a double door arrangement AND making sure the door jambs are air-tight when the doors are closed is far superior.

:cool:
 
7' ceiling!! :eek: oh I'd cover it with at least 2" rigid fibreglass and make it dissappear ;)

cheers
John
 
i plan to fill between the joist with R14 (is that what your refering to as rigid fiberglass?) but the door this is going to make things a little dificult with the weird angled wall. show stopper no but looking on the website with all the studios i really dont see many pix of door constructions.
 
i meant putting the rogid fibreglass on the drywall ceiling (in the room)

For your doors try something like this image attached.

cheers
JOhn
 

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ok is this Z channel strong enough to hold 2 sheets of dry wall? i'm just afraid to hang this stuff and it pulls away?
 
I assume it can as they suggest 3 layers in some cases like between picture theatres in complexes.

cheers
john
 
updated design drawing

this is the view from inside the studio look out towards the door

this is the view from coming down the stairs

this is the view of the HVAC system that i have no idea what i'm going to do with beside just boxing it in with drywall

heres the view from the vocal room into the control room.

this is the HUGE monitor that i've got. also the corner that it will be in. just to give you a idea how big the monitor is the sub its sitting on is a 10"

HVAC system in the control room. the big runner is a fresh air return. the one on botom is heat and AC

gas and water lines. just another problem to get around.

this is the view from the far right of the vocal room into the contol room. the wood stud will be replaced with metal except for the frameing for the window.

all that is weekend one from friday at 9pm to sunday at 6 pm 2 walls and alot of planning
 
any particular reason for replacing the timber studs with metal??

cheers
JOhn
 
more on to be consistant with metal studs. less surface area, better STC rating. the timber is as old as the house. and as always creating more work than is needed
 
phreaknes@yahoo said:
more on to be consistant with metal studs. less surface area, better STC rating. the timber is as old as the house. and as always creating more work than is needed
Click to expand...

Old houses are like that :) I have one myself. I decided instead of fighting it so hard, just insulate better and "get used to the room". I'm not building a studio which I'm going to record Madonna, AC/DC or Loreena McKenna in, so I'm not after perfection.

I believe, as long as a reasonable effort is made, and you don't have nasty standing waves, your ears can get used to almost anything if the room remains consistant and overall, very quiet when the music isn't playing. To each their own of course.

And, you're right about using metal studs - less contact, less audio transfer.
 
thanxs for the comments but like 2 or 3 of the center studs will be taken out for the window and one of the others is cracked down the middle so i dont want to risk it or else i would. But i think i will frame the window in wood just because I'm not brave enought to try it with metal.
 
Ok I’m game, I called several places locally and they’re giving me prices at $100 for 22” x 34” 3/8” and a 10 day wait, or they have in stock 22” x 34” ¼” for 20$ a pane and free delivery over $50. Can I do 4 total panes (2 panes sandwiched together 2 sides) and just put them together? Or do I have to do the single pane 3/8” for each side?:confused:
 
make the panes different i.e. 3/8" and 1/4" with the 1/4" on the control room side.

cheers
John
 
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