Stratocaster Wiring

Old Music Guy

Old Music Guy

Member
I am about to update my 2004 HSS Strat with Seymour Duncans. SSL1 in the neck, SSL 5 RWRP in the middle, and a Custom humbucker in the bridge,
I want to have tone control for the bridge pup.
The attached wiring diagram shows me how to do it, I've tried it with little success,
Anyone have any ideas or better ways to do it?
As you can imagine the hassle when it's wrong.
Thanks
DStrat HSS wiring with bridge tone.jpgStrat HSS wiring with bridge tone.jpg
 
Assuming you’ve correctly identified the lugs on your switch compared to the diagram, it should work. The middle tone control will affect the bridge and middle pickups and the two combinations which include them. The other T pot will affect the neck pickup and the one combination that includes it.

What is actually wrong when you wire it up?
 
ashcat_lt said:
What is actually wrong when you wire it up
Click to expand...
Nothing at all.
ashcat_lt said:
The middle tone control will affect the bridge and middle pickups and the two combinations which include them.
Click to expand...
I want to have a tone control solely for the bridge pickup in position 1. It irks me to no end that I have no control over the bridge pup tone. I know, position 2 and 4 is where everyone plays, Not me.
I want tone control on the bridge pup.
 
No man, he wants tone control...he uses the bridge dnd or pup..how about one up and one down? like the end of an ending. dup...perfect
 
Move the wire from what’s labeled as middle tone one lug to the right, to where the jumper lands.

Don’t actually add that jumper at all and the middle pickup has no independent tone control (also no tone load, so slightly brighter than it might otherwise be). In B and B+M position, the one T pot works. In N or N+B, the other one works. In M position neither works.

Or add the jumper between that middle lug and the N lug and the M and N share that pot. In the N, N+M, and M positions, the one pot works. In B position the other works. In B+M position, they both work in parallel like one smaller (darker even at 10) master tone.

You pick or try both and see which you prefer.


PSBTW just adding the T pot will make the bridge position slightly darker than you are used to with it unloaded.
 
Look at these diagrams to see how to isolate one pickup and bridge the other two. If you don't want tone on a pickup, just don't bridge it so it's not connected to a tone pot.

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LazerBeakShiek said:
No man, he wants tone control...he uses the bridge dnd or pup..how about one up and one down? like the end of an ending. dup...perfect
Click to expand...
Don't understand what that means.
ashcat_lt said:
Move the wire from what’s labeled as middle tone one lug to the right, to where the jumper lands.
Click to expand...
That is my understanding on how it should be done,
This would give me tone control for the bridge humbucker in position 1. It also gives me the same stock tone control for the middle single coil in position 3,
Though, as someone pointed out, in position 2 (B&N) the tone control will have an effect on both bridge and neck pickups.
My biggest beef with no TC on the bridge is that you get what you get from the PU. For my taste, bridge pups are way to trebly. I would just like to roll off the highs a little.
This particular guitar is a Highway 1 HSS from 2004. In 2005, Fender introduced the "Greasebucket" circuit that allowed *some* high frequency roll off of the bridge. I don't want to get into that because I would need to buy new pots.
I'll try the jumper, if I don't like it, I'll cut it and live with what I got. If I like it, I win.
.
 
made in USA. the U wire binds the tone control..
20240522_200942.jpg
made in Mexico
20240522_200932.jpg
If that does not get you there..flip the switch wires going to neck and bridge.

-edit - that diagram in your 1st post should work. I think..don't cut my nuts off if this is wrong
 
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no.

you have a diagram that shows the 8 tabs. whether it is rotary or in line Alpha shouldn't matter. trace the wires and look at the contacts. There should be only one unused tab on the 5 way. That one unused tab should bind the tone control.
 
Old Music Guy said:
My biggest beef with no TC on the bridge is that you get what you get from the PU. For my taste, bridge pups are way to trebly. I would just like to roll off the highs a little.
This particular guitar is a Highway 1 HSS from 2004. In 2005, Fender introduced the "Greasebucket" circuit that allowed *some* high frequency
.
Click to expand...
What was that stratocaster that took nintendo cartidge type things to customize what the three knobs did? I remember liking the 'limiting' strat. Where is was master vol. treble cut and bass cut. Fascinating actually. Because there was no practical way to make the knobs do that without over complexity.

edit -Fender American Deluxe Strat Plus

Screenshot 2024-05-25 182655.jpg
 
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Old Music Guy said:
I was thrown by the rotary switch reference
Click to expand...
Fender had a trademark rotary 5 way. The Alpha with in line tabs is an improvement of the design
Old Music Guy said:
This would give me tone control for the bridge humbucker in position 1. It also gives me the same stock tone control for the middle single coil in position 3,
Though, as someone pointed out, in position 2 (B&N) the tone control will have an effect on both bridge and neck pickups.
Click to expand...
neck's tone control is ganged with the middle. the bridge is on its own. Even in positions 2 and 4.
Old Music Guy said:
, Fender introduced the "Greasebucket" circuit that allowed *some* high frequency roll off of the bridge. I don't want to get into that
.
Click to expand...
Place the grease bucket and a the normal tone cap on a Alpha push pull. A / B them. Throw a TBX in there too. Or place a Tone control bypass in there on micro SP/ST. That turns the tones all on or off.

There was a diagram with 3 concentric pots each controlling the volume and tone for each individual pickup on a strat style guard. I thought it was cool still 3 knobs. Then 3 micro flip switches were in place of the 5 way to handle phase. Mounted over a metal plate to cover / to conceal, the 5 way's slot's open spots.
 
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LazerBeakShiek said:
neck's tone control is ganged with the middle. the bridge is on its own. Even in positions 2 and 4.
Click to expand...
IDK what’s happening in you’re weird little world, but…

IF we’re still actually talking about a standard 5-way AND there is a T pot active in position 3 (middle only) THEN that T pot is also active in positions 2 and 4 (combinations with middle).

IF the middle and neck are sharing a T pot AND the bridge has its own THEN both T pots are active (in parallel and interactive) in the M+B position.
 
the necks tone is ganged with the middle if you link the tab on 5 way....linking it to the neck tab.

the bridge stays independant on its own tone. Because the neck pickup is not selected.

3 pickups ...2 tones...1 has to be ganged to another cause there aint enough
 
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ashcat_lt said:
both T pots are active (in parallel and interactive) in the M+B position.
Click to expand...
he wants a tone control for the bridge. Wait...are you arguing with me or agreeing?

pos 2 3 4 all are ganged to the middle tone pot
pos 1 and 5 are on the last tone knob

on a different strat the 2 3 4 are the same , but the bridge is toned down on a pot. The neck is wide open. In the Neck's case the tone would be dialed down with the volume knob.
 
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