storing an acoustic

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AlfredB

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Hi there,

whats the best way to store (medium term - say 3-6 months -) an acoustic?


- hardcase
- tune down a note? (or leave it in tune?)


whats the best way to avoid "issues" in the long run like the top bowing or the bridge lifting?

thx and cheers
alfred
 
AlfredB said:
Hi there,

whats the best way to store (medium term - say 3-6 months -) an acoustic?


- hardcase
- tune down a note? (or leave it in tune?)


whats the best way to avoid "issues" in the long run like the top bowing or the bridge lifting?

thx and cheers
alfred

I would think in it's case.....and not sure about relaxing the strings. They seem to sit in music stores for extended periods sometimes, and I've never heard about ill effects from that, but who knows? At that point, maybe take the strings off, and it's a good excuse for new strings when you get it back out.
 
1)Hardcase
2)Your guitar case provides the best possible protection for your guitar. It protects it from drying and cold. A guitar case humidifier is an excellent way of keeping your guitar from becoming too dry. Dryness promotes shrinking in the wood which can cause the wood and finish to crack. Dryness can also make the soundboard sink which will affect your string action. You will first notice this when you experience fret buzz. The use of a humidifier for cold and a dehumidifier for hot humid climates are highly recommended,Typical heat damage consists of warped soundboards and unglued (detached) bridges.A 45% relative humidity is ideal.
3)It’s not necessary to lower the pitch of strings when storing your guitar for a short time. You might consider lowering the pitch a step or two if you are storing it through a season change.
 
bcains said:
3)It’s not necessary to lower the pitch of strings when storing your guitar for a short time. You might consider lowering the pitch a step or two if you are storing it through a season change.



You were doing OK until this one.

If you are going to be storeing your guitar for more than about a week, you want to completely slack the strings. The single most distructive element a guitar faces is the strings. Get them out of the equation.

Then, put it in a case in a room which will not get hot. Too much heat will melt glue, and that causes all kinds of problems.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Light said:
You were doing OK until this one.

If you are going to be storeing your guitar for more than about a week, you want to completely slack the strings. The single most distructive element a guitar faces is the strings. Get them out of the equation.

Then, put it in a case in a room which will not get hot. Too much heat will melt glue, and that causes all kinds of problems.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi

Note taken. :)
 
this makes me think i should open up my stored acoustics and remove the strings, last thing i need is my $500 acoustic guitar, looking like my $100 acoustic guitar...

thanks again to homerecording.com.bbs (and all you of course)
 
I thought you weren't suppose to completely slack the strings because the force of the trussrod will no longer have anything to counteract it and will bow the neck back over time. Do you back the pressure off the truss rod too then?
 
reshp1 said:
I thought you weren't suppose to completely slack the strings because the force of the trussrod will no longer have anything to counteract it and will bow the neck back over time. Do you back the pressure off the truss rod too then?


That is an old wives tale. Don't worry about it.

More to the point, it was only ever a theoretical problem. I am much more concerned about the bridge flying off, or the neck moving.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
The bext way to store your git for long periods of time is to send it to me and let me take care of it!!

:-)
 
So Bob Taylor is wrong? hmmm

"We don't recommend doing so, because if you de-tune a guitar for any length of time, you also have to loosen the truss rod. Otherwise, the neck may develop a back bow, and it could prove difficult to completely correct that. In other words, you actually could do long-term damage to the instrument by loosening the strings and not loosening the truss rod at the same time. "

-Taylor Guitars

H2H
 
rpe said:
The bext way to store your git for long periods of time is to send it to me and let me take care of it!!

:-)


... if you werent living in NM we could have cut a deal :-)
 
Hard2Hear said:
So Bob Taylor is wrong? hmmm

"We don't recommend doing so, because if you de-tune a guitar for any length of time, you also have to loosen the truss rod. Otherwise, the neck may develop a back bow, and it could prove difficult to completely correct that. In other words, you actually could do long-term damage to the instrument by loosening the strings and not loosening the truss rod at the same time. "

-Taylor Guitars

H2H


Well, in 35 years, we have NEVER seen a guitar which was damaged by removing the string tension. We have seen literally tens of thousands which have been damaged by string tension.

Seems a pretty simple equation to me.

And just because something is an old wives tale doesn't mean it is not widely believed.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Well, would the safest bet be to slack the strings AND the truss rod then? That would result in the need for a setup once taken out of storage, but that's probably true no matter what.
 
reshp1 said:
Well, would the safest bet be to slack the strings AND the truss rod then? That would result in the need for a setup once taken out of storage, but that's probably true no matter what.


Sure thing, go wild.




Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
I wonder what makes them twist then. I had a Jazz bass neck twist on me. I had slacked the strings and put it away. It was in the room I keep everything else in, temperature and humidity controlled. But it got a bad twist anyways over a couple years time. this particular one was a mim, so maybe it just wasn't very good to begin with. But then again, I have one of the first year mim strats and the neck is perfect on it and its never had tension off of it. Who knows...its a crapshoot as far as I'm concerned. I just give them the best environment I can and hope theyre ok.

H2H
 
Hard2Hear said:
I wonder what makes them twist then. I had a Jazz bass neck twist on me. I had slacked the strings and put it away. It was in the room I keep everything else in, temperature and humidity controlled. But it got a bad twist anyways over a couple years time. this particular one was a mim, so maybe it just wasn't very good to begin with. But then again, I have one of the first year mim strats and the neck is perfect on it and its never had tension off of it. Who knows...its a crapshoot as far as I'm concerned. I just give them the best environment I can and hope theyre ok.

H2H


Well, you are comparing apples to oranges (if I may be allowed the ungodly cliché). Bass necks and guitar necks have completely different issues involved. The added length and narrow width of bass necks make them much more unstable.

But what causes twists is a pretty simple thing. As the sign in our shop says:

Carefully selected pieces of wood, in the most carefully controlled environments will do pretty much as they damn well please.


The problem is that different areas of the tree, even within a few centimeters of one another, will be under drastically different amounts of tension coming from completely different directions. This is not always (or even usually) visible, but as the wood is shaped, these tensions are relieved, and this of course affects the tension on the surrounding areas of the piece. Some times they will develop major twists in seconds, but more often, they move slowly, and over time they change.

Add to this that the wood used in most factories has had a very limited amount of time to cure, and you exacerbate the problem. They do, of course, dry their wood (in large kilns), but that is only part of the equation. Once a piece of wood is dry, it must also acclimatize to the new moisture content. The areas between the wood fibers (the tree's cells) loose moisture much faster than the cells themselves, but a moisture content measurement gives you an overall average moisture content. As the moisture content equalizes through the piece, the variable sizes of the cells and spaces between them can change, which causes twisting, warping, cupping, and bowing. The way to deal with this is simple, but not practical in a factory situation. You let the wood air dry (which leads to a more consistent internal moisture content as the wood dries much slower), and you let it sit in it's final manufacturing climate for as long as possible before you use it. We let our tops for acoustic guitars hang out in the shop for a MINIMUM of 5 years before we use them. Our neck wood that we are using right now is probably at least 5, and maybe 10 years old. We have a few really nice old German Spruce (the kind you can't get anymore) and Brazilian Rosewood (which is also impossible to get anymore, for all practical purposes) from at least 25 years ago, maybe even a few from as much as 35 years ago. Not that we will use that for any but the most expensive guitars. Backs and sides are less of a concern for us, and if we must we will use them after only a few months. We do try, however, to let them sit for a few years. With my electrics, I want the neck blanks to sit for as long as possible, at least a year, and longer is better. Needless to say, this kind of storage for the amounts of wood needed for Martin or Taylor, would be more than a little cost prohibitive, and the problem is even worse for factories in 2nd and 3rd world countries, where the level of concern for these problems is nearly non-existent (they just want to build as many of the damn things as possible, as quickly as possible).

Unless of course you WANT to spend $3000 for a D15, but I am guessing not.

But industrial space is expensive. I mean, the folks at Martin have severely reduced the amount of factory space used by the repair department because it is cheaper for them to have local repair shops do the work. They told me it costs them - including wages and shop space which they can't use for manufacturing - almost $200 an hour to do repair work in the factory. I can do it much cheaper.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Light said:
Carefully selected pieces of wood, in the most carefully controlled environments will do pretty much as they damn well please.

That might be the funniest thing I've heard all week. :D
 
Light said:
Add to this that the wood used in most factories has had a very limited amount of time to cure, and you exacerbate the problem. They do, of course, dry their wood (in large kilns), but that is only part of the equation.


my workaround....


I buy old guitars ... If the neck hasnt warped in 30+yrs ... chances are it will not warp in the next couple of years ...


cheers
alfred
 
good plan :)

I was starting to do that, but then the prices of 70's crap started going throgh the roof, too! Sheesh.. Now I can't afford any of it.

H2H
 
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