soundproofing

  • Thread starter Thread starter tas2son
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RICK FITZPATRICK said:
Thats the best and most truthful reply I've read all week. Good for you Hapicmpur. Rep points comin up :D
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Gracias, amigo, but I'm pretty sure it was you who first taught me the difference between room treatment and sound-proofing.

Shout It Out said:
Can I get an estimate for how much a single bass trap made with a wood frame and 4'' thick 703 is??
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My traps cost less than $40 each, and I put two in each corner (one above the other). Here's how I made 'em: http://www.hp-h.com/p/hapicmpur/basstraps.htm

Shout It Out said:
Help me....My brain is saying buy auralex foam instead of rigid fiberglass....please someone make it stop.
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Quick! Shoot yourself in the head before your brain makes you do something stupid. If you must buy foam to make yourself feel better, buy some foam after you've covered all of your corners and most of your flat surfaces with panels of rigid fiberglass.
 
ah...thats what im doing...just ordered my 703 thank god. I'll see if i need anymore treatment after that is up!
 
RICK FITZPATRICK said:
Why make frames. Simply wrap the fiberglass panels with fabric and hang them :rolleyes:
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I've always been under the impression that the frames are to help the fiberglass keep its shape. Wouldn't it sag over time if you simply wrapped it in fabric and hung it? Not neccessarily the ones that are vertical, but the ones hung at a 45 at the wall to ceiling corners.
 
Wouldn't it sag over time if you simply wrapped it in fabric and hung it
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Why do you think they call it RIGID fiberglass? Have you ever seen it? Although, I'm thinking of 4". 1"-2" could possibly sag if not hung with that in mind, but...I've NEVER heard anyone complain :confused:
 
yea I'm going frameless. One less thign to worry about and less weight on the walls.
 
Rick, it may be rigid compared to standard insulation, which is flimsy by design, but drywall, OSB, and MDF are "ridig" and they sag over time if you don't support them right.

It's just a question, and not a stupid one at that, so I'd appreciate a little less condescension. And try not to get so worked up over every little question.
 
It's just a question, and not a stupid one at that, so I'd appreciate a little less condescension. And try not to get so worked up over every little question.
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Hey Sonic, MDF, OSB and other sheet goods are HEAVY. Rigid fiberglass, especially more the 2" thick has very little weight vs stiffness.



And btw, who got worked up Sonic? :confused: And condencending? I think you''re interpretation of my reply is a bit mistaken. Thats NOT what my intention was nor do I think I came across that way. But if I did, to anyone I offended, please accept my apology. You are right about questions, but lets look at the facts. Someone starts spoutin terms like RFZ, and you'd think they AT LEAST understand what and how Rigid Fiberglass absorption works. But, maybe not. In that case...well, what can I say other than...EXCUUUUUUUSE ME! :D
 
SonicClang said:
I've always been under the impression that the frames are to help the fiberglass keep its shape. Wouldn't it sag over time if you simply wrapped it in fabric and hung it? Not neccessarily the ones that are vertical, but the ones hung at a 45 at the wall to ceiling corners.
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Not really, the 45 degree wall to ceiling hanging is a trick frame or not
Frames get you a crisp edge and an easy way to hang them like a picture. There are also various esthetic possibilities.
 
Innovations said:
Not really, the 45 degree wall to ceiling hanging is a trick frame or not
Frames get you a crisp edge and an easy way to hang them like a picture.
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Right. Unframed panels can be pretty hard to hang in ways that don't damage the fiberglass, especially if you're trying to leave space between your panels and the wall.

Also, framed panels are easier to move around without doing damage to the fiberglass. I've got some unframed panels hanging from the ceiling, for instance, and each time I take them down to clean them they get just a little bit more crushed up around the edges. It's a very slow deterioration, mind you (since I don't clean the studio as often as I should), but it's worth noting that my unframed panels are wearing out faster than my framed panels.
 
Hey Guys, HE was complaining about building frames. I gave him an alternative since he THOUGHT a frame was REQUIRED to work. Last time I'll do that.
 
I don't think I'd go frameless. I think just wrapping it might break the edges of the 703, JMHO I thought the wood frame posted here was a good idea and the link I posted with the drywall metal corners for a frame was easy and lighter than wood if that is a consideration.
 
So frames are good.
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That depends on your point of view. Here is mine. A 4" thick 2'x4' panel of OC 703 has 288 square inches of exposed edge. That amounts to TWO SQUARE FEET of absorption area PER PANEL, or 1/4 of the face. In other words, put a frame on and you cover 2 sq ft of potential absorption area at incident angle. If you have 8 panels, thats TWO full panels of edge area. Now, I don't know about you but for absorbing direct or reflection at grazing angles, I can't afford to throw it away... :) BTW, a 4" thick, ONE FOOT SQ, panel has 192 square inchs of edge. The face only has...144. Now go build your frames. :rolleyes:
 
Like hapicmpur, if you're gonna build frames, which might be the better idea, drill holes in them. This, i'm guessing, causes a helmholtz resonator effect. If not, it still leaves some of the edges open to absorb.
 
pandamonk said:
Like hapicmpur, if you're gonna build frames, which might be the better idea, drill holes in them. This, i'm guessing, causes a helmholtz resonator effect. If not, it still leaves some of the edges open to absorb.
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Good point.
 
what I am doing is using peg board for the frames, so they do have holes in them. and they are very lightweight.
 
Drilling holes will take ages and you will wish you didn't half way through, so it thought of a new way. Get 1"x1" wood and build like the attached pic. Thats wot I'm gonna do.
 

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I guess when i go to the store tomorrow im just gonna buy wooden dowels but recangular ones...seems liek that is what pandamonk is going for. also..a i need opinions and help on this...
PICT0674.jpg


The bass trap will be above that book case, but what i want to know is if the bookcase is doing me any good. I put it there and filled it with blankets and such to kinda angle the room instead of having a corner...is this a good idea? also thats big green wall behind my desk is a 7 foot wide wood board with carpet nailed over it and covered in a sheet. Is this bad for the room or is it ok? people say that carpet unbalances the room or something... I think it was a good idea to do, but opinions would rock.
 
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