Soundproofing garage door / opening

A

andyg_prs

New member
Hi,

A quick question during a break from my garage to studio conversion. I have created a set of side hinging door that are well soundproofed and will be well sealed as well. They are wooden brace and ledge and framed doors with 21mm panels....recesses filled with Celotex 25mm. Boxed in, filled with 100m rockwool (RWA45) and sealed in with 12.5mm soundblock plasterboard.

Inside that I have a second 'door' barrier. It consists of a fake wall that hinges back (long story but for building regs I have to maintain the ability to drive a car into the garage even if I choose not to) and a standard interior house door that will be used to get through to the studio. The fake wall is a frame made of 3 x 2 wood, filled with same rockwool and sandwiched each side with the same sounblock plasterboard. All moving parts are an 'interference fit' and I will be using various different acoustic / draft proofing seals to make everything as airtight as possible.

At the moment the interior door is the weak point as it is a standard new build (cheap) door. Obviously I will make air tight seal all around....but the question is the best way to soundproof.

Do I:

1. Add 2 or 3 layers of 12.5mm soundblock plasterboard to the back of the door?
2. Box in the back of the door with the above plasterboard and fill with 100mm rockwool (which I have left over from other parts of the studio build).
3. Do something else?

Many thanks,
Andy

PS - just how soundproof do you think you can make the front of a garage (2.1 x 2.1 metre opening) with wood/plasterboard/rockwool doors? It's been suggested that the only way to do it is with uPVC doors but at that size I have been quoted in the region of £1000 to make and fit them.
 
I'd also like to add that our keyboard player that has his own home studio says that I won't get the end result of soundproofing until I line the internal walls with absorbant material. Now a lot of people on here say that is about treating the sound within the room rather than soundproofing, which I get, but he is saying that a significant percentage of the sound that bounces around the room is reduced by the deadening and therefore less of it can make it through the weak points in the room to the outside. What do you think? Thanks, Andy
 
i did a budget job on our drum booth door, looks crap, but works so well. house external door cut to size, sheet of 3 ply on the external side, boxed with 3x1'" to within 3 mm of the door frame. filled the box with soundproof insulation, screwed 3ply over the insulation, dodgy, yes. went from 115 Db in the drum room to 73 Db outside the door.IMG_1986.JPG
 
Cool. Can you tell me more about the 3 ply - I think it might be called something different in the UK or I'm just showing how little I know! What thickness is it? What soundproof insulation did you use? How did you seal the door to the frame - rubber seals? Thanks! Andy :)
 
At the moment the interior door is the weak point as it is a standard new build (cheap) door. Obviously I will make air tight seal all around....but the question is the best way to soundproof.
Click to expand...


Don't forget the threshold too. Using a hardwood threshold with a built in rubber seal is a good choice. Of course, you then have to cut the bottom of the door to fit.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=100202626&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100202626&ci_kw={keyword}&kwd={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100202626&ci_gpa=pla#.UKvPKIacnw4


And btw...
filled the box with soundproof insulation,
Click to expand...
ummm, exactly how does insulation "soundproof"? Can you provide any Transmission Loss ratings?
 
And btw...
ummm, exactly how does insulation "soundproof"? Can you provide any Transmission Loss ratings?[/QUOTE]


yes, copied from the makers web site "for you doubters"

Insulation with a soundproofing rating, as apposed to insulation without a soundproofing rating, yeah i have the msdn in the paper pile someware.

Rw 41
Rw 46
Nrc 1.04
 
yes, copied from the makers web site "for you doubters"
Click to expand...
Hi again. I wasn't doubting you. I was interested in the "transmission loss" ratings of what ever product you used ALONE. Most Lab tests I have ever read, were conducted using a WALL ASSEMBLY...not the insulation by itself. And that is what I was referring to. If I'm not mistaken, the only contribution to actual TL by the insulation is minimal at best, as if you did NOT have the drywall or plywood...it wouldn't make a great isolation product...by itself. To whatever contribution it does possess, it does so by virtue of physics of a MASS AIR MASS(two leaf)system that surrounds it. In fact...wrap some around your head and listen to a radio. That's not to say it doesn't help, just...well, show me the beef. Do you have a TL rating of the product itself? THAT is what I was interested in. Thanks
 
our bass players 15" box melted, i got the only thing i had, a shitty car sub, to finnish the session. i didnt want the sound from the speaker, i had to put a load on the amp. wrapped that car sub up in this insulation, and finnished the gig with DI into the PA, apart from a odd boom every so often, car sub emited no audiable noise. i admit we did have that sub box Jam Packed with the crap.

this is the link to the insulation webpage, i will have a look for the exact data for you tonight, i just had a quick flick but didnt find the specs , but they are there.

Commercial acoustic insulation | Bradford Insulation
 
found it

Physical Properties
Density kg/m³ 60
Corrosion Resistance BS 3958 part 5- 1969 pH 7.0-8.0; Less than 20ppm soluble chlorides;
Incapable of corroding steel
Moisture Absorption
When placed in a controlled
atmosphere of 50ºC and 95%
relatively humitdy for 96 hours.
Less than 0.2% by volume.
Sample Specification Install Acoustic Baffle 602 wall insulation in accordance with
manufacturers written installation instructions.
Sound Absorption
Sound
Absorption
(NRC)
When
tested in a
reverbration
chamber in
accordance
with AS
1045:1988
Thickness Frequency (Hz)
mm 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 5000 NRC
50 0.17 0.41 0.87 1.22 1.12 0.95 0.90 0.91 ACOUSTIC BAFFLE
 
(NRC)
When
tested in a
reverbration
chamber in
accordance
with AS
1045:1988
Thickness Frequency (Hz)
Click to expand...

Just as I thought. AS-1054:1988 is an Austrailian ISO standard, of which you can NOT read, as Standards are not free. The Standard, provides various descriptions of how, where, size and other aspects of the specimen to be tested, as well as what type room etc. Unless you can read the Standard, the NRC means nothing, as I'd bet $1k the specimen was placed in a two leaf(MSM) system in order to see how it performs in real life applications.

However, my opinions also mean nothing, other than informing you I "believe" insulation has very little intrinsic isolation qualities...by ITSELF. If it did.,.why would you need a two leaf system to enclose it, other than aesthetic, form, etc. As to wrapping the sub......er......why did you need the amp in the first place if you were going straight to a PA via a DI? Just curious. Well, carry on.
 
hi, DI directly out of the bass head. the bass head "maybe" able to live without a load on, not a chance i would take. fx on amp, fx loop chain setup, if i had to i could plug bass into fx into pa, all the settings would have to be done again, only had a 10 min break between sets, had to be the night we decided to track 3 live songs. had a "home built bass trap" in the back of the van for donor insulation and the bass players sub box out of his car. plus our freind gaff tape, only lost the wet bass mic this way. i know its dodgy, but we got it done. in the end it didnt matter because we had to retrack most of the bass anyway. as far as the insulation, you may well be right, but if i find something with a set nrc, i would use it over a random product. just my 2c.
 
this info seems to be ok, shows that insulation does make a difference, if not always that much



Superior soundproofing; most sounds inaudible




STC

Partition type



33

Single layer of 1/2″ drywall on each side, wood studs, no insulation (typical interior wall)



39

Single layer of 1/2″ drywall on each side, wood studs, fiberglass insulation [2]



44

4″ Hollow CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) [3]



45

Roxul Safe'n'Sound Insulation installed between wood 2 × 4 studs on 16″ centers and 5/8″ drywall (type x ) on each side with resilient channels at 16″ on one side [4]



45

Double layer of 1/2″ drywall on each side, wood studs, batt insulation in wall



46

Single layer of 1/2″ drywall, glued to 6″ lightweight concrete block wall, painted both sides



46

6″ Hollow CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) [3]



48

8″ Hollow CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) [3]



50

10″ Hollow CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) [3]



52

8″ Hollow CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) with 2″ Z-Bars and 1/2″ Drywall on each side [5]



52

Roxul Safe'n'Sound Insulation installed between steel 2 x 4 studs on 24″ centers and 5/8″ drywall (type x) on each side [4]



54

Single layer of 1/2″ drywall, glued to 8″ dense concrete block wall, painted both sides



54

8″ Hollow CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) with 1 1/2″ Wood Furring, 1 1/2″ Fiberglass Insulation and 1/2″ Drywall on each side [5]



55

Double layer of 1/2″ drywall on each side, on staggered wood stud wall, batt insulation in wall



59

Double layer of 1/2″ drywall on each side, on wood stud wall, resilient channels on one side, batt insulation



63

Double layer of 1/2″ drywall on each side, on double wood/metal stud walls (spaced 1″ apart), double batt insulation



64

8″ Hollow CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) with 3″ Steel Studs, Fiberglass Insulation and 1/2″ Drywall on each side [5]



72

8″ concrete block wall, painted, with 1/2″ drywall on independent steel stud walls, each side, insulation in cavities
 
I just have to make a comment about punctuation and writing skills here. Ok, I just did...

Seriously hard to read man.

Even harder to understand.....
 
this info seems to be ok,
Click to expand...
Depends on what the partitions are built for.

shows that insulation does make a difference, if not always that much
Click to expand...
Yes, that's what I said. Notice there is NO rating for the insulation itself though. Always in the context of a two leaf assembly.

STC
Click to expand...

Sound Transmission Class.. Means nothing when it comes to music. It's based on "speech" frequencies. Same with NRC. The only thing that matters when music is involved is Low Frequency transmission. Anyway, just clarifying things cause the STC rating can mislead people. In reality, the ONLY thing that matters when building isolation assemblies for MUSIC....is how good the TL is at 100hz and below. If a given assembly performs well in that band, high frequencies won't matter. And that's how pro studio designers specify the assembly ratings. ..ie...TL rating @ Xhz. and insulation IS part of the equation. But it still takes a Two leaf system to make it work. Ok..well...carry on.
 
For any door, it's all about the mass and the seal. Use some expanding foam, but what a mess. You can try and layer on some mass, but generally you're going to rely on the second (decoupled) wall to carry the burden. 2-3 sheets of drywall (plasterboard) on the decoupled framing.

If I had all the money in the world I would use the least expensive fiberglass from Home Depot or Lowes. Has a slight edge in the low frequencies over mineral fiber. Since sound isolation success is almost always defined by how well the room isolates bass frequencies, I want every edge.
 
chronicle said:
Depends on what the partitions are built for.


Yes, that's what I said. Notice there is NO rating for the insulation itself though. Always in the context of a two leaf assembly.


this is true, but in the 2 leaf assy, it made a difference of 6 stc. same walls 6stc more with insulation. enjoy.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top