Sorry for the delay - my job often takes me away for 2-3 days at a time, with no net access possible.
When you say you are a beginner, if that means that you have no building experience whatever then it would take more time than I have available for ALL the forums I contribute to, just to teach you the basic carpentry techniques involved in building normal, NON-sound-proof walls/doors, etc -
If this is the case, before I can help you with the specialized construction that is necessary for studios you need to learn the basic vocabulary and techniques of NORMAL building construction, so we can advance from that point. Without that, it would be like trying to drive a race car and win, when you're not yet sure how many wheels a normal car has, or what an engine does.
I'm not trying to make fun or put anybody down here - everyone in this world knows things I have no knowledge of, and vice versa. All I'm saying is that I don't have enough time available to spend it all on bringing people from "this is a hammer, this is a nail, this is a framing square, etc" - all the way to "don't do this the conventional way or you will have a flanking path" -
What I'm suggesting, is that you obtain a book that covers basic framing and house construction, so that we can talk without having to define a few hundred terms that are common knowledge among builders.
If you have access to purchase books from Amazon.com, here is one book that can help you learn terms and techniques for frame house construction - these methods can be expanded on, once you understand the basics and terminology.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...f=sr_1_1/103-3123253-1538219?v=glance&s=books
To partially answer your last question, ""dis-connect the framing from door-to-door between critical areas" -
What I meant by "critical areas", is any areas that sound leakage at ANY time would be un-welcome - for example, from an outside entrance into a tracking room, or from a drum room to ANYWHERE -
What I meant by "dis-connect the framing from door-to-door" was that there should be no hard, firm connection between any two doors in a sound lock. This can be accomplished by putting soft layers of building materials, such as neoprene rubber, or soft "sound board", or heavy acoustic caulking, between parts of the construction that should not be able to transmit sound to the adjacent part. This is usually best accomplished by leaving about 1/4" gap between sections that need isolation, then using sound proof but flexible sealant to fill the gaps.
This is basically what I wrote the first time - the comments AFTER the part you quoted WERE the explanation.
You REALLY need to acquire a book on basic carpentry - without that basic knowledge, I'm not sure I can explain enough before my fingers fall off from typing. If you are planning to do this construction yourself, you will be very unhappy with the results if you don't know the basic techniques before you start. And, if you're planning to explain things to someone ELSE, the results will be even MORE dis-satisfying... Steve