Re: Lets hear a resounding.....
RICK FITZPATRICK said:
HIP HIP HOORAY!! Good job there mate. Hope the mudding goes well too. Are you shooting any texture? Or just covering with treatment? No matter. Were happy for ya cause I know sheetrocking is NO FUN> WELL, its BEER THIRTY frederic. Have one for me too!!
fitZ
My cousin and I are going to be mudding this as smooth and seamless as possible, then for paint, I have about 8 gallons of oil-based white paint leftover from when I painted the entire outside of the house... that will be for the ceilings. Its high gloss paint. Yes, my house is glossy - makes up for the 8 bazillion nooks and crannies that overpainted 1941 wooden shakes have...
Anyway, I'm still figuring out the color schemes. I want the ceiling pure white, to reflect light whether subtle or full bright to make it easier to see. The walls, i was thinking an off-white or a creme color possibly, I have about 5 gallons of that oil based paint from when I painted the living/dining rooms. But then I have the green countertop on my producer table/equipment racks, so not too sure about that color combination.
I also picked up (at home cesspool) plastic laminate that matches the counter top exactly... I'll tickle you with some questions down the road, but I was thinking of making a few trim pieces around the producer's desk with this material, specifically the pine 1x3's between the racks. I'll paint the sides facing the sides of the gear black, and maybe put the green laminate down the face, so its visible from the console room. Its a long .8" wide strip, how hard can that be to glue on? LOL. I will stay away from bends and stuff thats for darn sure.
Oh, paint surface, I'm probably going to paint everything to a smooth finish... then treat the entire slanted ceiling and the back wall with the auralex wedgies I have, with auralex bass traps in the corners behind the console, and probably two feet out on the two side walls.
Then play, record, mix and see how it sounds. If necessary, I'd be into making slatted things for the sides, however I'm still absolutely clueless as to how they work, what dimensions to use, though slapping a punch of 1x4's together with deck screws is easy for a frame... but i want to make them using the room, with specific acoustic control parameters in mind. Those, I don't have quite yet
Being a radical, I built my vocal booth without any regard for how to make a door, so I now have a slightly odd shaped opening, completely sheetrocked
Because of the way I record (not mix) I might just hang a really heavy drape in the doorway for now, until I engineer something appropriate. I have many door tracks lying all over, I might make a door that slides partially into the booth then swings in so the flipfloor doesn't interfere with it. Oh, well, more on that later.
Just before I responded to this message, I was sitting in one of my studio chairs I never took out of here, and measuring the height of the top of my leg and such so I can engineer my table more thoroughly, right now its just a basic sketch, but I have to make it a true drawing so I can cut and weld square tubing together and accurately to make a nice clean open frame table.
I have decided to see if I can soure locally a 1"x12"x room width oak board for the "desk surface" in front of the row of tascam mixers. I'll route out two PS/2 keyboards and one left-side trackball about 1/2" deep so nothing slides around and wanders, then have the remaining width as a desk surface for writing, notes, and other stuff I know will be accumulating in that area.
The track for the console lighting is at a perfect four feet on the dot from the back wall (on the slanted ceiling), so the way everything can work out the console table can be 40-48" deep and still have good lighting from above. I deliberately put the track lighting out a little further for two reasons... first so it was a little higher, and sitting down I don't bang my head on it constantly, and second so they are angled down the ceiling slant onto the console table so its not within my peripheral vision at all. I for one would find that irritating, so this will work out. I think I have both covered, if I use the very small fixtures I have. Whats really nice about this grossly overpriced fixtures is the PR-16 bulb sits about an inch into the fixture, so the halogen bulb isn't at or below the edge of the fixture, also helping to avoid glare on the back of my glasses.
My computer monitors have anti-glare surfaces, so the lighting shouldn't be a problem at all, even if its not an optimum angle.
I probably put more effort into track lighting placement than I have in sheet rocking to be honest.
Anyhoo... I'll stop here since you asked about paint and I started my usual irrelevent drivvel.
Back to imagining a steel console table, and measuring said imaginary table
