Tascam 688 belt repair
Hi, I just bought a 688. My plan is to transfer my old 688 recordings into
my Akai DPS24. The prior suggestion is correct. It's not likely to be a motor. Belt is much more likely because the rubber has surely stretched & weathered by now. My unit has a belt problem as well, and I'll describe the replacement procedure below. But I have a question first. Does anyone have a service manual on PDF. Doesn't have to be real clear, just barely readable is ok. If not, could someone please give me some Tascam part numbers? I need:
* Capstan drive belt
* Pinch roller
* FF/REWIND Reel Spindle
* Spring for the Reel Spindle above
OK, here's how you replace the belt. Access to the tape drive is from the top, not the bottom. As you take the unit apart, be careful not to pop and lose the sprocket spindle. It's spring-loaded and will fly. That's what someone did to the unit I just bought. They didn't even know it was missing.
1) Remove the right side casing panel, 2 screws. That's the big thick trapezoidal plastic part on the right side.
2) You might have to remove the top cover panel at the rear of the unit. It might interfere with the removal of the tape drive cover panel. It was one of the first things I took off and don't know if it really needs to come off. It's only a few screws though so it's easy. All these screws are not the same. Note, they are all black and some have spacers. It's important to put the ones with spacers back where they belong. You might have to remove the left side casing panel, 2 screws, to get the rear-top cover panel. It was only 2 screws, so off it went.
3) Remove the wrist rest pad. There are 2 + (meaning PLUS not MINUS) screws that you get at from the bottom near the front. The screws are not right on the bottom surface, they are further in and you have to reach them with a screwdriver. The wrist rest bracket has holes on the bottom to get at those screws. Every unit usually has one tricky part that determines a successful disassembly. THIS IS THAT PART FOR THE 688. If you don't do this, you can't get inside, period.
4) Next, you take the tape drive cover panel off by removing the screws near the front, the screws on the right side and the two screws in the middle under the cassette door.
5) Remove the vari-speed knob. The panel comes up and you have access to the tape drive.
6) The tape drive is held in place with + screws, one on the left, and two on the right. There is a small circuit board above the tape drive on the right that might need to come out. It is in place with 2 + screws. This board has two adjustments on it; I don't know what they do. Take care not to accidentally readjust the potentiometers.
7) To move the plastic panel out of the way, you might have to disconnect one gray shielded cable that plugs in with a small connector.
8) To remove & replace the belt, you have to take off the tape drive mounting bracket on the right side, 2 screws. Then take off the right side bracket, 3 screws. The bracket has one of the motors and a bushing for the capstan flywheel on it. You now have access to the drive belt.
To reassemble, do the opposite. Keep track of all the screws. They are not all the same and need to go back where they came from. You can draw an outline of each thing you take screws from, and scotch tape the screws to the drawing. That way you'll know where to put them back.
BTW, I used one of these in the mid-90s. It was a great machine. I made some really good recordings... and some bad ones, but those weren't the machine's fault.

I kept my tapes, but like a fool, sold the machine. Now I've got a very nice Digital DPS24 with which I can fix all those recording "errors." So I'm scrambling to get one running and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.