Rackmount Crossover?

  • Thread starter Thread starter talontsiawd
  • Start date Start date
T

talontsiawd

New member
Ok, I'm thinking about going with a sub with my moniters. Now i know i could get a sub with a built in crossover but i'd want something for my mointers also. I definatly want to cut the lows out of my moniters if i'm using a sub. I have several simple questions. What is the difference between active and passive? When using powered speakers, does one have any significant advantage. Secondly, do most cross over let you defeat it's functions? A sub is obviously loud so i'd like to be able to mix without it but then i would want my moniters to play their full range. 3rd of all, is there a huge quality difference between models and brands? Doing a quick search, i found a large price range. I'm sure with active crossovers it can make a difference, i'm wondering how much, and if i go with a passive one, will i notice?

I'm only used to messing with crossovers with car stereo's. I feel i have a fairly good comprehension about how to use them, in a car. Now i know a room is much bigger so i might struggle a bit at first. That's one of the reasons why i want something rack mounted so it can be right in front of me. Any tips, suggestions, etc, are greatly apprciated.
 
It's possible your monitors have a natural bass rolloff that meshs with your sub, especially if they are 6.5" or smaller. I would advise performing an RTA on your system and calibrating the sub before determining that a crossover is necessary.

Also, many if not most subs will have active crossovers to cut the low bass going to your monitors.

Anyway, I use a Rane MX22 to accomplish what you are seeking. It works fine. I would advise against passive crossovers for a low cut to your monitors, because quality crossover components for low frequencies are rather expensive and not very flexible once installed.

I am going to move to monitors with 10" woofers to eliminate the need for a sub (and thus the active crossover).
 
Yeah, i doubt my moniters go below 60 htz. That's where i usuaully cross subs to in my car. They may go below that but they don't have any real volume. I'd have to find my manual thing and figure out all that. They are a 5 inch driver-Krk rp-5's. I really don't see how a 5 in driver could go that low. I just figured a crossover would insure that i had it right. From car audio, i'd probably start with my sub crossed over at 60 htz and see how it worked and go from there. Maybe i can skip the crossover.
 
talontsiawd said:
Yeah, i doubt my moniters go below 60 htz. That's where i usuaully cross subs to in my car. They may go below that but they don't have any real volume. I'd have to find my manual thing and figure out all that. They are a 5 inch driver-Krk rp-5's. I really don't see how a 5 in driver could go that low. I just figured a crossover would insure that i had it right. From car audio, i'd probably start with my sub crossed over at 60 htz and see how it worked and go from there. Maybe i can skip the crossover.

I think the crossover point in a car is likely set to ensure the bone-rattling bass without regard to flatness of response, as that's nearly impossible in a car anyway. Start around 100Hz for your monitor sub; your 6"s will be experiencing significant rolloff by that point.
 
mshilarious said:
I think the crossover point in a car is likely set to ensure the bone-rattling bass without regard to flatness of response, as that's nearly impossible in a car anyway. Start around 100Hz for your monitor sub; your 6"s will be experiencing significant rolloff by that point.
Yeah, while my car is actually not bass heavy compared to alot of other peoples systems, my point is i'm not clueless about this. I can find the sound i want, or what other people want. I think i'll take your advice and not worry about a crossover now and see how it goes. I have money if i feel i need one. I just hate the muddy sound you get when you have a small driver struggling to produce what a 10 in sub can do, and a sub trying to play the mid bass. I want to find that spot where i can hear the mid bass a normal system would get but the "fatter" lows a good system can get. If you haven't found out yet, i make rap instrmentals :D . Not that they are even bass heavy, i just like a strong kick to go with a mellow bassline.
 
talontsiawd said:
Yeah, while my car is actually not bass heavy compared to alot of other peoples systems, my point is i'm not clueless about this. I can find the sound i want, or what other people want. I think i'll take your advice and not worry about a crossover now and see how it goes. I have money if i feel i need one. I just hate the muddy sound you get when you have a small driver struggling to produce what a 10 in sub can do, and a sub trying to play the mid bass. I want to find that spot where i can hear the mid bass a normal system would get but the "fatter" lows a good system can get. If you haven't found out yet, i make rap instrmentals :D . Not that they are even bass heavy, i just like a strong kick to go with a mellow bassline.

I guess my point is that it's important NOT to use your ears, but to calibrate with a measurement mic. Behringer sells a $50 version that is worth the price. If you rely on your ears, you'll get a sound that is very good on your system, but may not translate well to a house system, or a car, etc.
 
mshilarious said:
I guess my point is that it's important NOT to use your ears, but to calibrate with a measurement mic. Behringer sells a $50 version that is worth the price. If you rely on your ears, you'll get a sound that is very good on your system, but may not translate well to a house system, or a car, etc.
Do you think you could link me and possibly to a page describing how to use one. I just don't know what to look for. Also, thank you for the help.
 
Ok, i did some research and i'm getting mixed conclusions. Some people seem to think a measurement mic is great and other think it's perfect way to ruin your monitering set up. So, from what i gather, i put the mic where i would normally listen, run some sounds specifically made for this, and look at the results. Now what i am a bit confused by how to remedy anything. Do i use an outboard eq, computer program, or move things around? That is if i want to make changes. Need to do some more reading.
 
Back
Top