Please comment on the PC I'm planning to build.

B

Bergen

Member
First off, thanks to everyone who has encouraged and informed neophytes like me to build their own PC. So here is what I'm planning so far:

Case: Antec SLK2600AMB $52
(http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=11-129-117&depa=0)

Case Fan: Panaflo with adaptor cable $15
(http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=35-180-011&depa=0)

mobo: ASUS A7V600 with KT600 chipset $69
(http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=13-131-486&depa=0)

CPU: Athlon XP Barton 3000+ OEM $158
(http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=19-103-394&depa=0)

CPU Fan: Cooler Master for Socket 370/A $5
(http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=35-103-125&depa=0)

RAM: Kingston 512 MB DDR PC3200 $86
(http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=20-141-424&depa=0)

CD/DVD Burner: Lite-on LDW 411S $82
(http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=27-106-920&depa=0)

2nd optical drive: CD/DVD ROM drive from old computer

OS/software HD: 40 gig 7200 rpsIDE drive from old computer

Data HD: Seagate 160-GB ATA 7200rpm 8MBcache $99 with rebate from CompUSA

Soundcards: Echo Mia(audio) and SB Live(midi) from old computer

Firewire card: PCI card $10

Video card: Matrix G400 dual head - free from a friend

Total cost=$576

I like the case cause it similar to the sonata without the fan and I've heard the panaflo is quieter. The mobo is a brand and chipset that pairs well with my Echo MIA, and it has 400 MHz FSB which pairs well with my chip/RAM. I've decided on the Athlon 3000+ over the 2500+ for higher clock and FSB speed, and I've heard the cooler master is quiet. The Lite-on is a good buy, and the seagate is big, fast and quiet. The video card will do the trick(I'm not a gamer) and most importantly has dual output should I choose to use them later.

This will be used for audio with Sonar 2.0 or 3.0 with cpu heavy plug-ins like amplitube and RVerb real-time running up to 20+ tracks and I will use input monitoring. Other uses include DVD creation of DV home movies and home office use.

Questions:
1-I could justify putting $50 more or so into the system that would significantly enhance the system. Any suggestions?

2-I have read some bad reviews about the mobo I chose, but I've heard good things about ASUS and it seems their higher end models have features I don't need. Any experience with this mobo/chipset?

3-I chose the fans from scattered comments on the boards. Any experience with these models?

4-Most importantly, is there anything I chose that won't pair well with anything else I chose?

Thanks
 
Thats the same case I have. If you are planning on using that extra fan in front of the hard drives, the snap-in frame is for 120mm fans, so your 92mm fan wouldnt work without some modification. Also, the case is a medium-gray type of color. Black drives dont look too good in it and beige ones look just plain ugly. You might want to go with a black dvd burner, the same model as yours is only 1 dollar more in black. Also they have a dual format 8x burner for 30 bucks more, might be a good idea if you plan on making lots of dvds.

-Chris
 
get a retail barton 2500+ instead. you'll have a good processor and get a heatsink fan and save like $80

i don't think you'll need that case fan either.

excellent deal on that seagate.

everything else looks great.
 
psychokids: Thanks for the advice. Think I'll keep the front door closed most of the time for aesthetics. Do you use a separate case fan? I thought I might upgrade to the SLK3700AMB which is basically the same with an included case fan; this case is equally scored to Sonata in quiet case thread posted by bluesboy. As far as the DVD drive, no mass production planned, so I'll save here and splurge elsewhere.

Bluesboy: Thanks for the great sites. Feel more confident about my mobo.
 
Jotosuds: I appreciate it when someone tries to help me save money. I may omit the case fan and stick with my original case choice. This will be in under a desk with the back a couple inches away from a wall.

The 2500+ is a great value, but I feel like I should take full advantage of the 400fsb capability of my mobo, and the cheapest athlon with 400fsb is the 3000+ if i'm not mistaken. However, it wouldn't take a lot of convincing to have me save $70 if the difference would be minimal. I'll still go OEM and get the coolermaster-$5 difference or so.

The RAM issue brought up earlier: I've heard several people say 512 is enough, especially with DDR. I can always order more later. Maybe more of an issue for video than audio.
 
Hello,

I actually do have the SLK3700, when i followed your link it looked exactly the same as the one I have in front of me and I didnt check the model numbers. If you get an Antec 2600, youll need to add at least one case fan (the 92mm one you originally wanted would work), as expecting the power supply to shoot out all the heat from the case can lead to thermal problems. I recommend the 3700 because it comes with a quieter power supply, it can hold up to 6 or so hard drives, which are mounted on rubber washers to help noise. Also, it takes larger, and therefore usually quieter fans, and the front fan is positioned to push air right across the hard drive surfaces which keeps their temps down.

If i was to buy my processor over again, I would go with an XP mobile 2500 or 2600. AMD actually hand picks the barton cores, and chooses the ones that clock to the right speed at the lowest voltages and packages them as XP mobiles. First off, they run their stock speed at i think 1.45 volts, which can knock off 5 degrees right off the bat. Also, they overclock to a 200 fsb much more gracefully than a normal 2500 barton, and are as stable as a rock with the right settings. They also open the possibility of dynamic overclocking, so it can be 800mhz at idle, but immediately shoots to the full 2.2ghz under load. But if you dont want to overclock, by all means go with the 3000+, its a great chip.

If you have you processor and ram running in sync at 200mhz, 512 of ram should be ok. I only have 1 gig for when socket 939 comes out and athlons will finally utilize dual channel, so I had to buy both sticks at the same time so they match. Its basically up to you if you want to spend the cash for a performance boost you may or may not notice.

Good luck,
-Chris
 
..

here's a generic question

Why is everybody on this boeard choosing AMD? Do they perform better for DAWs? are they cheaper? or do people liek to deviants? k maybe deviants is not the right word but i mean just that they deviate form the norm. I ask because a computer salesman i am friends with said he stopped building computers with AMD chips because they of inferior quality. He said that once he made the change from AMD to pentium, warrenty calls went down like 65 %.

I know alot of you guys use AMD so what is the big secret behind them?"
 
I'd get a Realworld case. Almost silent with its case fan. Good choice on the Cooler Master, I've had success with those, very quiet.
 
psychokids: thanks for the tips. I think I'll stick with the 3000+; I'm a little gunshy on overclocking. I talked to my computer guys at work, and they don't use case fans and don't think I'll need to either, even though I keep my little Behringer mixer and audiobuddy preamp on top of my computer. However, I think I'll get either the SLK3700AMB or a Realworld case as recommended by Progger.

Minoffia: I'm no expert, but I think athlon processors are popular because of their efficiency and floating-point processing capability (am I saying that right?) needed for real-time audio effects and input monitoring. Someone please correct me or add to what I'm saying if appropriate.

Progger: I like those cases. The reviews were very favorable, but no one commented on their noise level, so if you say they're quiet, that's good enough for me. They weren't reviewed here:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/section10.html

are they new?
 
I don't think they're too new. They're just not really popular. I just know that I record drums with the PC right in back of the kit, and I don't get any fan noise in the mics.
 
Get the Barton 2500+ and EFFORTLESSLY OC it to 3000+ or 3200+. WinXP sees mine AS an XP3000+. Or, get the 3000+, but PROMISE to OC it. :) Personally, I'd take the cash.

Nforce2 chipset is what I would have chosen, but to each his own. ASUS is a good board though.

The reason "a lot" of us are choosing AMD is superior price/performance. Anyone who claims that "AMD" is unstable or inferior is just blowing smoke. IF you use QUALITY parts, you WILL have a QUALITY Computer. Period. Most folks would buy and off the shelf Compaq, AMD computer at Best Buy, have problems with it, and BLAME the inferior AMD processor. No. Compaq makes SHIT MOBOS. They run fine, until you try to add ANYTHING to it. Then you're done. Yeah, it's AMD's fault that a computer manufacturer who is trying to make cost competitive computers with the greatest profit margins chooses the less expensive AMD chips AND crappier mobos/ram etc. etc.

IF YOU buy a quality MOBO, quality RAM, and a quality HD or two, and throw in WinXP, YOU will most likely have a good performing, stable DAW regardless of whether you choose AMD or INTEL. If this is a given(which it is:D ), WHY SPEND MORE MONEY for the same performance/stability? Why? In my pocketbook, it just DOES NOT make any sense to buy INTEL.

So, that's the secret. If you would rather GET the same performance/stability for LESS money, you buy AMD. If you got nothing but heaps of cash, believe the hype about "inferior AMD" products, and like a dollar for dollar performance deficit, then INTEL is the path I encourage you to follow.
:D

$.02
 
I don't want to get into another AMD/Intel sort of thing around these forums, there are plenty of places where fanboys can slug it out.

I have been a loyal AMD user, and have not made the switch. Yet.

After adding two SATA drives in a RAID 0 setup @home, I feel that Intel would have been a better choice. Yes, more expensive but at the end of the day less hassle.

The cost of my processor and after adding the fan is exactly the same I would've paid for an Intel CPU. My motherboard is as expensive as an 865 chipset board. Everything else is common.

The diference would've been that I wouldn't need to buy two new 120 gig IDE drives to be able to record. Or even just play Winamp. That Sil controller really hogs up PCI bandwidth like a madman.

Those surprises never hit you with Intel. If you want to upgrade, you throw out the whole rig. If the board came with something, it was tested to death to be compatible. May not break world records but will be stable - although now the P4s are very, very fast, and have equalled and bested the XPs in performance on a rating vs. clock basis. When the XPs came out the 1600+ would take a fight to the 1.8 P4s on a lot of benchmarks, and the difference in everyday use was startling - the XPs plain felt more responsive and 'quicker' than the P4s.

Now, the XP2600+ competes with the 2.4 P4s as far as benchmarks go. In everyday use the XPs still feel fast, though.
 
Ok, so I'm warming up to the idea of overclocking. I have no experience with this though, so can someone answer or point me to a website that will answer these questions:

1-mobile XP chips were recommended for oc'ing. However, a 2500+ mobile has a slower listed fsb(266) than a regular chip (333). Also, what is meant by oc'ing these chips to 200 fsb when they are already listed with 266 or 333fsb?

2-How do I oc the chip? Does it differ depending what mobo I have? Are certain chipsets better than others. How do I monitor my chip to make sure it won't be damaged? Should I wait till the thermal paste "takes" before I oc? Should I have 2 case fans if I oc?

3-I've heard you get more milage by oc'ing the fsb rather than the clock speed. My main interests are to maximize the # of real-time and input monitored effects with cpu-hungry processors like amplitube and RVerb. Any comments?

Thanks
 
OC'ing a 2500+ is easy enough if you wanna save some money. I've possted a few times about what you do, but a quick explanation is upping the voltage a tiny bit and upping the FSB. A good real world overclock is upping a 2500+ to 1.7v and upping the FSB to 190. Get PC3500 memory so you have plenty of overhead to run your memory CL2.
Make sure you install the fan correctly so it can cool and the Barton will essentially be a 3000+ at that point. I recomend using something like Goof Off to strip off any heatsink pads on the heatsink. (the white gum like thing) and applying some decent heatsink compund. Good for another 3 degrees cooling.
Your CPU will be running 2090 MHz. Running a little lower FSB that an actual 3000+--400 but a higher multiplier. Mine's set that way and runs flawlessly for days on end if I don't turn it off. Don't need much cooling to do it either.

AMD vs Intel? I don't see quality being better for either one. Guess it's a matter of personal preference. The Asus board you get for your intel CPU could have problems too.. never know...
Only potential problem I've heard of on the AMD side is maybe Sangram's Raid-0 glitch on a Asus Nforce2 board. This is supposedly a problem with the Silicon Image SATA RAID controller. Problem boards are supposedly Abit and Asus but this was in the news a long time ago so that might point to a mainboard that's been sitting on a shelf for a long time before it was sold....

When I hear a computer guy talking trash about AMD I figure it's a computer guy that doens't know how to mount a Heatsink fan. Earlier Athlons ran hot compared to Intel and were much less forgiving in regards to sloppy PC building. I've built nothing but Athlons for a very long time and have had very little hardware problems with my computers...
 
There are whole websites dedicated to overclocking. The volumes of information is overwhelming. If you are sure you are willing to deal with it all, by all means overclock. Before you make your decision, though, make sure you consider both the pros (pro?) and the cons. If you thought just picking out hardware was tough, you'll be opening up a pandoras box with overclocking...

http://www.anandtech.com/guides/viewfaq.html?i=96

Also, your PC will run hotter, which means more required cooling, which (likely) means more noise.

Some people here will recommend just paying for the power, and not having to deal with the hours lost from trying to tweak your system and deal with work lost from instability. Remember: the difference between spending time and spending money is that you can't get your time back. :)
 
minofifa said:
hmmm all good to know. on a side note, are there ary other chip makers out there for pc's?
Click to expand...


I think VIA/Cyrix made some socket 370 CPUs for a while but that's the only non Intel/AMD of semi recent I can remember. Probably not worth mentioning since they didn't go over 1000 MHz if memory serves me...
 
Via chipset although provides more then ample proofs that it is solid and reliable…

From statistic point of view is capable of creating a nightmare when matched with some combination of hardware.

Nvidia chipset although in baby steps provides none.

If you are purchasing old AMD series (up to 3000) I would stick with Boards with Nforce chipset rather then Via, one step safer.

If new AMD64 is on the table then Via is recommended just the same
 
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