Peavey Classic Thirty Cap Job.

dogooder

dogooder

Well-known member
she has a bunch of 22uf@25V electrolytic caps in her. I have a bunch of 25uf, some 25V some 50V, new, kicking around.
Should I use them?
 
Yeah, if it's working fine, there's no reason to change them, but if you do want to, you're fine using the 25uF either at 25 or 50V. Most caps are rated something like -10% to +30%, and 25uF is about +10%.

I haven't done a thing to my Classic 30, except to change out some microphonic tubes. Oh yeah, I had to dry out the reverb tank and speaker, and reglue the covering after it was in water up to the middle of the speaker! It still worked.

alt=
 
TalismanRich said:
Yeah, if it's working fine, there's no reason to change them, but if you do want to, you're fine using the 25uF either at 25 or 50V. Most caps are rated something like -10% to +30%, and 25uF is about +10%.

I haven't done a thing to my Classic 30, except to change out some microphonic tubes. Oh yeah, I had to dry out the reverb tank and speaker, and reglue the covering after it was in water up to the middle of the speaker! It still worked.

View attachment 124910
Click to expand...
Ouch! How much stuff in that room was destroyed?
 
I had one bad tube socket, this the third time I have been in there and this time I just replaced all the tube sockets. She was also having other
intermittent problems so while I am in there I figured go for it. I have most of the caps laying around from working on other amps. Now, my classic
50, changing tubes out. The tubes in the 30 are brand new, I figured since I'm not using it at the moment I'll switch the tubes out. I go to take the tubes
out of the 50, take the back cover off, can't get them out that way. It's kinda dark, I can't see well, I figure hell, I'll look on you tube, nothing on you tube. It
seems you have to take the bottom cabinet panel off and then there are two plates? under the tubes screwed to the chassis that have to be removed to get
to the tubes? What were the engineers thinking that day. The classic 30 has three boards that fold into and L shape that is a pain in the butt to work with. It
looks like the 50 is one board? I haven't got back to it yet.
 
RFR said:
Ouch! How much stuff in that room was destroyed?
Click to expand...
A couple of computers, 1 guitar had to be refinished. Lots of books, magazines, photo slides, audio tapes, computer programs, record jackets. Furnace, freezer, water heater, washer and drier. Basically anything that was on the bottom shelves and in boxes on the floor. I was able to save the IMFs, the Peavey and my Guild amp were fine after a cleaning. It was quite the mess. Carrying wet carpet and some furniture out was lots of work. Cutting off 3 ft of drywall, and pulling wood paneling, then doing repairs took a few months.

I cringe when I seen places that get flooded out.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: RFR
Almost done, waiting for a few more caps to arrive. Why do they glue those caps down, it's not for a heat sink
What a pain in the ass.
 
I finally put the classic thirty back together. To my surprise, she sounds better than she ever did. Only took me a year and a half. I will make a great amp tech.
 
dogooder said:
I finally put the classic thirty back together. To my surprise, she sounds better than she ever did. Only took me a year and a half. I will make a great amp tech.
Click to expand...
It doesn't surprise me because guitar manufacturers put in low end/main stream parts in all the time. But for coupling and bypass caps, when you change them there really isn't a better just a different distortion and insertion loss characteristics will be observed. There are other parts in amplifiers like resistors I see would benefit from going to better types. But that is mostly use case scenarios unless the resistor is failing (like the wirewound coil is unseated in the cement resistor and its buzzing in the amp and inducing FM distortion for example).
 
The transformer in my overdrive pedal is humming. Has been for a while. I tightened it up and that helped but she still hums but keeps going. Should I replace it?
alt=
 
Electronics mnfctrs stared gluing larger components like caps well over 30 years ago to stop them "floating off" when going through the wave soldering machine. The better, more professional way to do it is to make silicone rubber fixtures to hold everything in place. Naturally these cost more than a random splodge of black goop!

The worse part is, said gloop denatures over the years and becomes conductive and corrosive and causes failures.

Nothing to do with vibration in service because Hitachi were one of the worst offenders in their CRT TVs which sat still for the rest of their lives!

Also the amplifier company I was associated with used very good quality components. They did not however go in for the snake oil "Orange drop" conn. None of these supposedly 'super' components have ever been subjected to any proper, double blind tests.

Dave.
 
ecc83 said:
Electronics mnfctrs stared gluing larger components like caps well over 30 years ago to stop them "floating off" when going through the wave soldering machine. The better, more professional way to do it is to make silicone rubber fixtures to hold everything in place. Naturally these cost more than a random splodge of black goop!
Click to expand...
Never seen things float off on a wave solder machine. But the black goop that some have been using was never really intended to be used on circuits.
I think you don't know what you are talking about because gluing is a use case scenario.
 
Last edited:
ecc83 said:
They did not however go in for the snake oil "Orange drop" conn. None of these supposedly 'super' components have ever been subjected to any proper, double blind tests.
Click to expand...
Its been over 20 years since the last real orange drop was made and there are better caps made now as if it really makes a difference in a guitar amp which it wouldn't anyways.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top