B
bpape
Acoustic Designer - GIK
As Ethan said, no matter what solution you choose, the important thing is to do to the room what it needs.
T
ThaArtist
New member
Well thats the thing Bryan, how am I suppose to know what the rooms needs? I am really only using this room for a control room and vocal recordings.
It's a small room. It has an echo right now etc. I just got the desk built the past few days and now I have to laminate it. Then I'm gonna put up foam and OC703 so... I am really trying to figure out the very best solution for what I'm dealing with.
As you can see there are some parts of the room that make it tricky. There are FOUR doorways! Crazy... I think I got a pretty good idea but for some reason all the 703 on my design looks like too much? Plus doing the ceiling?!?
It's crazy. I wish someone could just say,"look, for that size room and from the pictures youve shown... do the 703/foam design like this. (maybe picture included)."
Anyone?
Thanks again?
It's a small room. It has an echo right now etc. I just got the desk built the past few days and now I have to laminate it. Then I'm gonna put up foam and OC703 so... I am really trying to figure out the very best solution for what I'm dealing with.
As you can see there are some parts of the room that make it tricky. There are FOUR doorways! Crazy... I think I got a pretty good idea but for some reason all the 703 on my design looks like too much? Plus doing the ceiling?!?
It's crazy. I wish someone could just say,"look, for that size room and from the pictures youve shown... do the 703/foam design like this. (maybe picture included)."
Anyone?
Thanks again?
B
bpape
Acoustic Designer - GIK
Well, that's part of the problem. To give you what you are asking for takes some time and effort to run an anlysis, plot reflection points, identify modal characteristics, identify existing square footage and attributes of people, furniture, construction, etc. In short, it's what professionals get paid to do.
I understand completely about your impression that it's too much. However, many times, the smaller the room, the more % wise you need to deal with AND the more you need to count on every piece of treatment to deal with a significant portion of the audible spectrum. Small rooms and thin absorbers just don't go together. You simply don't have the space or the luxury to have 1" absorbers for reflection points. When running the analysis and taking into account what space you have available, it may well turn out that your reflection absorbers should be 4" thick to assist with bass control for example.
Also, when dealing with a smaller space, having more % of the surfaces controlled CAN lead to overdamped situations in the mids and highs. This can require adding facings to some of the bass absorbers so they only deal with broadband bass and leave the mid/high frequency absorbtion duties to the reflection point panels.
This is all part of a detailed analysis that should be run on every space to get things correct and balanced. Now, can you put up bass absorbers in the vertical corners, put up more in the horizontal ceiling corners and cover with a facing, hit all of the early reflection points, etc. and get a large improvement? Absolutely. Will it be the optimal solution? Maybe, maybe not. No way to know for sure without doing the analysis and the measurements after and then tweaking any remaining issues that may have been missed.
I wish there was a simple answer but there really isn't.
I understand completely about your impression that it's too much. However, many times, the smaller the room, the more % wise you need to deal with AND the more you need to count on every piece of treatment to deal with a significant portion of the audible spectrum. Small rooms and thin absorbers just don't go together. You simply don't have the space or the luxury to have 1" absorbers for reflection points. When running the analysis and taking into account what space you have available, it may well turn out that your reflection absorbers should be 4" thick to assist with bass control for example.
Also, when dealing with a smaller space, having more % of the surfaces controlled CAN lead to overdamped situations in the mids and highs. This can require adding facings to some of the bass absorbers so they only deal with broadband bass and leave the mid/high frequency absorbtion duties to the reflection point panels.
This is all part of a detailed analysis that should be run on every space to get things correct and balanced. Now, can you put up bass absorbers in the vertical corners, put up more in the horizontal ceiling corners and cover with a facing, hit all of the early reflection points, etc. and get a large improvement? Absolutely. Will it be the optimal solution? Maybe, maybe not. No way to know for sure without doing the analysis and the measurements after and then tweaking any remaining issues that may have been missed.
I wish there was a simple answer but there really isn't.
C
corban
New member
Well, I can attempt to help, but I'm not an expert on this at all. From what I've read, I don't think you should need that many 703s, specifically on the side and front wall. Personally, I would probably put one on each wall: directly behind the mix position, directly in front, and on the left and right walls, halfway between the mix position and the monitors. Also, one on the ceiling, halfway between the mix position and the monitors. I'm not sure about the one you have in the corner of the ceiling behind the monitors, that would operate as a good bass trap, I guess, but you need something right on the ceiling between you and the monitor to cut out the early reflections, so I would move it there from where you have it.
Then, if those foam things are good bass traps, I would put them in EVERY top tri-corner. Personally, because I know they're good, I would go with ethan's realtraps, he makes 2x2 minitraps specifically for those tri-corners. Depending on how much room you have, I would try to put a larger bass trap in every corner I could, but failing that, I would mount them flush to the wall, starting with the back wall/front wall.
Just my two cents, take it for what it's worth.
Then, if those foam things are good bass traps, I would put them in EVERY top tri-corner. Personally, because I know they're good, I would go with ethan's realtraps, he makes 2x2 minitraps specifically for those tri-corners. Depending on how much room you have, I would try to put a larger bass trap in every corner I could, but failing that, I would mount them flush to the wall, starting with the back wall/front wall.
Just my two cents, take it for what it's worth.
C
corban
New member
So Bpape beat me to it, and said what I should have said as well: these are just general suggestions that should help a lot, but may not be specifically what's needed for your room.
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T
ThaArtist
New member
thanks everyone
Thanks everyone... That should help alot... just trying to get some decent recordings and mixes out of this room until I move from here and can build something better and more precise.
Thanks alot though corban, bpape and everyone else.
Joe
Thanks everyone... That should help alot... just trying to get some decent recordings and mixes out of this room until I move from here and can build something better and more precise.
Thanks alot though corban, bpape and everyone else.
Joe