New guitar?

  • Thread starter Thread starter danny.guitar
  • Start date Start date
Just got back from the shop...

Just got back from the shop. The guy at the counter played with it for a second and said the action is too low. Also something to do with how the neck joins the body...that part stays straight but the rest of the neck can sometimes move around a bit.

Anyway, I won't know for sure until later. He said if it's the action it will only cost about $15-$20 to fix it.

I hope that's all it is. :confused: :( :o :confused:
 
danny.guitar said:
Just got back from the shop. The guy at the counter played with it for a second and said the action is too low. Also something to do with how the neck joins the body...that part stays straight but the rest of the neck can sometimes move around a bit.

Anyway, I won't know for sure until later. He said if it's the action it will only cost about $15-$20 to fix it.

I hope that's all it is. :confused: :( :o :confused:
Click to expand...

Sounds like too much back-bow. He'll prob'ly just tweak the truss-rod, then you'll be good to go.

Now turn that frown upside down...

THAT'S A SMILE, NOT AN UPSIDE DOWN FROWN, GODDAMNIT!!!!
 
Well, I think every gtr is better off getting an action adjustment every year anyway since they're always changing a bit.

One of my spruce top gtrs is kind or sensitive to humidity level and I have to raise the action if it's very dry in the winter as the soundboard's normal arch (slight, but there) reduces and the saddle gets a little low.

I had a really great sounding gtr once (made by Manuel Contreras) that had a soundboard that was failing... getting more dished over time so the action ht got lower and lower. It had a too-thin cedar soundboard, too lightly braced. But it was the sweetest sounding gtr ever during its short (two year) lifespan. :D To their credit, the seller gave me a new gtr after their repairs ruined its sound.
 
I'm pretty happy that it's lasted this long without needing repairs, considering it's what most people would consider a budget guitar.

He said something about replacing the saddle, or "shimming?" the one on there to raise the action. The action was really, really low. I hope this fixes it. I should be able to go pick it up tomorrow. :D

Anyone know if raising the action effects tone/volume at all? I doubt it, but just wondering. Maybe it will make it sound a little better... :o
 
danny.guitar said:
I'm pretty happy that it's lasted this long without needing repairs, considering it's what most people would consider a budget guitar.

He said something about replacing the saddle, or "shimming?" the one on there to raise the action. The action was really, really low. I hope this fixes it. I should be able to go pick it up tomorrow. :D

Anyone know if raising the action effects tone/volume at all? I doubt it, but just wondering. Maybe it will make it sound a little better... :o
Click to expand...

If he shims the saddle, it won't sound better. If, however, he replaces the saddle with a taller one (and maybe uses something good like TUSQ or bone) your tone/volume will be fine.
 
Humidify your guitar heavily (my recommendation, as always, is to use a Kyser Lifeguard and a soap dish humidifier - Google it if you don't know what I'm talking about - and keep your guitar in the case when your not using it). Give it a couple of weeks, and it will be back to where it was, in all likelihood. This assumes, of course, that you haven't already got a crack going on, in which case get it to a good repair shop ASAP. It is very important to take care of cracks quickly to keep them from running, and also because if they get dirty or oxidized they won't accept glue very well.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
32-20-Blues said:
If he shims the saddle, it won't sound better.
Click to expand...


There is absolutely nothing wrong with shimming a saddle, as long as there is still enough saddle slot to support the saddle. There is not a single person in the world who can hear the difference between a guitar with and without a saddle, as long as they are both setup well. Besides, (and particularly on a cheap guitar) why would you spend $75 on a new saddle when you could get a shim made for $20-30 (those are at my shop rates).


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Light said:
Humidify your guitar heavily (my recommendation, as always, is to use a Kyser Lifeguard and a soap dish humidifier - Google it if you don't know what I'm talking about - and keep your guitar in the case when your not using it). Give it a couple of weeks, and it will be back to where it was, in all likelihood. This assumes, of course, that you haven't already got a crack going on, in which case get it to a good repair shop ASAP. It is very important to take care of cracks quickly to keep them from running, and also because if they get dirty or oxidized they won't accept glue very well.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
Click to expand...

I like to think I know my stuff, but let me ask you this.....since I have that one. :P

How long before that sponge isn't wet enough to do anything, and is it true that a dry sponge will suck moisture out of the wood and work the opposite of the a wet sponge? I always assumed that is true because there is not reason for it not to be. I wet mine and give it one good squeeze. I figure it stays usable for 3 or 4 days.
 
Light - I've never had a case for this thing. It's always been in my room with no problems. But I noticed since it started getting cold, and that it was sitting not too far from the open window, that maybe that could be causing it.

Going from cold/warm/cold/warm, might mess with the neck. I have no idea why I didn't think of this before. :confused:

I looked all over for cracks but there aren't any.

Anyway, I called yesterday and he said he hasn't had a chance to start on it yet, but it should be ready today.
 
Outlaws said:
I like to think I know my stuff, but let me ask you this.....since I have that one. :P

How long before that sponge isn't wet enough to do anything,
Click to expand...

It really depends on the weather and the humidity in your particular space. We keep the shop at 45% humidity, and we still check the guitars which are in for humidification at least twice a week. More if it is cold outside. Of course, that is for guitars which already HAVE cracks, and which were, by definition, under-humidified when they came in. Our general rule of thumb for our customers is to check them when ever you play, but at least once every 3-4 days. If they are still noticeably damp, refill them.


Outlaws said:
and is it true that a dry sponge will suck moisture out of the wood and work the opposite of the a wet sponge?
Click to expand...


Not that I've ever noticed. They seem to reach an equilibrium, and then they stay there. I know Kyser says they will suck excess humidity out of the air, but I've never seen any evidence of it. Then again, short of pouring a bucket of water into your guitar, you aren't going to ever have issues with "excess" humidity up here. We tell our customers to feel free to leave their humidifiers in all year if that helps them to remember to do it in the winter when it is needed. (Of course, the other option is to leave a post it note on your furnace so you see it when you turn on your heat in the fall, which is when it becomes an issue.)


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Light said:
There is absolutely nothing wrong with shimming a saddle, as long as there is still enough saddle slot to support the saddle. There is not a single person in the world who can hear the difference between a guitar with and without a saddle, as long as they are both setup well. Besides, (and particularly on a cheap guitar) why would you spend $75 on a new saddle when you could get a shim made for $20-30 (those are at my shop rates).


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
Click to expand...

Exactly. Like I said, it won't sound better (which was what Danny was hoping for). It won't sound any worse, either, but it won't benefit the tone or volume. I'm agreeing with you here, man.
 
32-20-Blues said:
Exactly. Like I said, it won't sound better (which was what Danny was hoping for). It won't sound any worse, either, but it won't benefit the tone or volume. I'm agreeing with you here, man.
Click to expand...


Ah, I didn't get that. However, it WILL make it sound better if the thing is buzzing right now, as it will stop the buzzing (which is a good thing, in my mind).

And a new saddle is unlikely to make a perceptible difference, other than the whole not buzzing thing.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Got it back

Well I got it back and it plays so much better now. Only the 13th and 14th fret on the high E string sound the same, but I think that's as good as it's gonna get.

No more twangy, harsh high e string and buzzing low strings.

Also no buzz on any of the strings from open all the way to the 20th fret

Not bad for $27 which included a set of strings. :)
 
Well, actually now the 13th fret on the high E just isn't sounding much at all. But that's really the only problem now and I can live with that. It's still a major improvement from what it was before.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top