Neck won't suck Finger EEz

didgijimmy

didgijimmy

vexed
Ok, I have owned an acoustic Alvarez RD 20sc, cutaway for a few years now. Been playing it often lately, but the neck always feels dry. I apply rigorous amounts of finger eez to it each time I play and it helps a little, but by the next time I pick it up its bone dry again.
It's a rosewood neck, same as my les paul copy, which I only apply finger eez to when I change the strings (and it's always perfectly smooth). Any reason that the alvarez doesn't stay nice and slick? Light?
Thanks,
james
 
I'd steer clear of that stuff and just keep the strings clean; put a little rubbing alcohol on a cloth and run it under the strings as well as over the top.

Finger ease is a silicone based spray. It doesn't hurt anything to use it, but there is a really nasty side effect that will pop up if your guitar ever needs repair: silicone does not dry out. Overspray can get in the nooks and crannies and years later will be hell on wheels if something needs gluing as the glue will not stick to a surface that has silicone molecules on it. You can't really get rid of it either, as even acetone will not get to all the places the silicone creeps to. About the only way to overcome silicone contamination is to use some kinds of epoxy, which is not consistent with a luthier's preferred method of repair because it can't be undone without damaging the adjacent wood fibers.

If you have a lower end guitar, don't sweat it too much. But I would never use it on a high end instrument.
 
Treeline said:
I'd steer clear of that stuff and just keep the strings clean; put a little rubbing alcohol on a cloth and run it under the strings as well as over the top.

Finger ease is a silicone based spray. It doesn't hurt anything to use it, but there is a really nasty side effect that will pop up if your guitar ever needs repair: silicone does not dry out. Overspray can get in the nooks and crannies and years later will be hell on wheels if something needs gluing as the glue will not stick to a surface that has silicone molecules on it. You can't really get rid of it either, as even acetone will not get to all the places the silicone creeps to. About the only way to overcome silicone contamination is to use some kinds of epoxy, which is not consistent with a luthier's preferred method of repair because it can't be undone without damaging the adjacent wood fibers.

If you have a lower end guitar, don't sweat it too much. But I would never use it on a high end instrument.
Click to expand...

+1 to avoiding any furniture or finish product that has silicates in it. It has the ability to penetrate even the hardest finish and is a bitch to finish over. The only effective method I've ever found is to remove it with a copious and prolonged caustic wash. Even that is sometimes ineffective completely.

Treeline for the record, just about all epoxies are reversible with heat. They are not popular with builders for other reasons mostly to do with their sheer and creep properties and also inconsistent bond strength and other mechanical properties.
 
muttley600 said:
Didn't you kind of get the low down n this when you posted in this thread.;)
Click to expand...

I actually reread that thread when i searched it:D , but I was curious as to why no matter how much i sprayed on, left for hours, wiped off immediately, or whatever, it wouldn't take to the fingerboard. It seems to be much worse on the higher frets,with the top of the board near the 12th fret and up being dry immediately after spraying. Didn't know if you had a scholarly answer or not. Thanks for the help though, maybe I'll try the lizard spit as somebody suggested. O and I'll be sure to ask for you as well as Light next time I have a guit dillema.:p

Treeline, It's only like a $300 acoustic electric, for some reason I thought I had to have the electronics, but I never use em. Definitely need an upgrade soon.
Thanks guys
James
 
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