MX-80...post-overhaul.

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miroslav

miroslav

Cosmic Cowboy
OK...besides all kinds of other stuff going on the last few weeks...I also spent a lot of time overhauling the MX-80 I purchased recently (as many of you will recall).

I basically pulled just about every board and connector, cleaned/de-oxidized everything, cleaned and cleaned some more, inside and out, every nook-n-cranny, and finally got the machine about as good as it can be for it's age. I even gave the outside a fresh coat of paint to cover up lots of small scuffs-n-scratches, so now when you are standing there looking at it...it looks almost factory fresh.

I also went over much of the mechanical stuff, checking all screws/bolts and whatnot...and finally I replaced all the burned out bulbs on the VU meters and a couple on the transport switches.
This past weekend I finished wiring a 30-foot, 48-channel snake for it and also tied it to a patchbay (what PITA work!)...so now the deck is hooked into my studio rig and all I have left to do is the basic electronic alignment, for use with a particular tape.
Oh...I also went through every reel of tape I got with the deck (plus I already purchased a few more reels over the last few weeks), so now I have 32 good reels of tape for it (7-996, 6-456, 19-499)...and I only ended up with 6 bad reels of 456, but I'll hang on to it in case I every really need it and want to do the old shake-n-bake for a single use session, which would be OK since I dump to DAW and don't really need to archive on the tape.
I haven't checked it yet...but am I correct in assuming that the 396 and 499 should be almost interchangeable...though I will still just recalibrate for each particular tape when needed.

I'll probably finally get to record some tracks in the next couple of weeks, as I still have some other stuff going on...but now the deck it ready to do some work...and here's a few post-overhaul pics.
The new meter bulbs are a bit brighter than the stock ones, but I didn't want to replace the stock ones that were still working. So wherever I had to replace bulbs on both sides of the meter...you can see that those meters are a bit brighter with two new bulbs...but I'm sure in time I'll replace all the stock ones in turn as they burn out...no big deal...
...I still have over 70 spare bulbs! :D

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Looking good, miro! :)

Any time you want to send me some wallpaper worthy shots, let me know! ;)

Cheers! :)
 
WOW, Miroslav...

WOWOWOW!!!!

Looks AWESOME!

You've been BUSY!

Nice work!

That machine looks ready to go!

On the 996 vs 499, those are, IIRC, significantly different tape formulations. 996 and GP9 are much more similar. Dunno how much you can get away with dropping in one for the other. It'd be interesting to know though what you experience as far as bias differences and such. I expect Beck would know more.
 
Thanks guys!

Yeah...a lot of work, but worth it.


Ghost...what kind of pics are you after? I only have an older Kodak digital camera...but it's pretty good. The images you are seeing here are from that camera, but reduced down to 25% of original size.
I appreciate the offer of doing the wallpaper...though honestly, you don't need to for my use, but if you think anyone else wants an MX-80 wallpaper image, yeah...I can send you some of the full-size pics.
Let me know.
 
Thanks guys!

Yeah...a lot of work, but worth it.


Ghost...what kind of pics are you after? I only have an older Kodak digital camera...but it's pretty good. The images you are seeing here are from that camera, but reduced down to 25% of original size.
I appreciate the offer of doing the wallpaper...though honestly, you don't need to for my use, but if you think anyone else wants an MX-80 wallpaper image, yeah...I can send you some of the full-size pics.
Let me know.

If you could take a pic of the deck which has the entire unit in the frame of the shot, (no cut off corners of the machine), from a slight left or right off center angle which shows a bit of the side of the unit, all from a nice but not extreme overhead angle, that would be really cool, I think. And also try to take it without the flash as that causes harsh shadows. And considering that the flash will be off, try to light it with some indirect lighting which will evenly light the machine without any hard shadows. And also have the machine turned on too. :)

Once done, email me the file to jeffpeletz @ sympatico.ca (no spaces).

Cheers! :)
 
Looks great!
Is the snake hardwired directly to the machine? Are there in/out XLR's on the machine also?

VP
 
Thanks!

No...not handwired at the machine end. The XLR end of the snake goes to the machine and plugs in to existing connectors.
 
Nice machine Miro. I'm using one since 1998 and recently recorded a CD with the best Dutch bluesband. Yesterday a jazz quartet came to visit the studio and they insist to record analog. Vinyl records are getting more popular in Holland and recording all analog, including the master on a twotrack will be possible since I have a Studer B67, a Telefunken M10 and a full tube Philips Pro 50.

I wish you lots of fun with the MX80, mine has never let me down and it syncs like a dream to another machine.
 
Congrats ! That is quite a machine !. . .

Anyone else find it odd that such a pro machine has a diagram printed on it for spooling the tape across the heads?. . . Just who did they think would be using it ?. . . A very dim view of the average intern, but I guess that has always been that way. . .
 
Nice machine Miro. I'm using one since 1998 and recently recorded a CD with the best Dutch bluesband. Yesterday a jazz quartet came to visit the studio and they insist to record analog. Vinyl records are getting more popular in Holland and recording all analog, including the master on a twotrack will be possible since I have a Studer B67, a Telefunken M10 and a full tube Philips Pro 50.

I wish you lots of fun with the MX80, mine has never let me down and it syncs like a dream to another machine.

Thanks Han!

What's the name of that Dutch blues band...do they have anything on the web one can go listen to?


Congrats ! That is quite a machine !. . .

Anyone else find it odd that such a pro machine has a diagram printed on it for spooling the tape across the heads?. . . Just who did they think would be using it ?. . . A very dim view of the average intern, but I guess that has always been that way. . .

Thanks!

You know...:D...as simple as it may seem spooling up tape, it's not unusual to sometimes stare at an unfamiliar tape path for a minute or two. I mean, I've seen some strange looking tape paths on some decks, but it works for the given deck.
I guess they put that diagram on the Otari so that anyone coming to the deck for the first time can easily see the right path so they don't $*&% up an expensive spool of tape on the first try! ;)
 
I guess they put that diagram on the Otari so that anyone coming to the deck for the first time can easily see the right path so they don't $*&% up an expensive spool of tape on the first try! ;)

I guess I see your point. . . The big machines don't move around. The people do. . .
FYI- - I think the full reel of blank tape goes on the left. :)
 
congratulations. I am interested to see where you end up biasing the 499 to because I ended up not going by the book on my MX-80, it didn't sound right. I am interested to see how you end up doing with the alignment.
 
What did you end up with bias for 499...? In what manner did you deviate form the Otari recommendation?
I was planning to just follow their manual for this first time out...but if there's something you feel is better, I would love to hear it so I can try it both ways.

I'm planning to do the calibration this weekend (other madness permitting). :)
 
oh by all means go by the manual the first time. what I did was I set up pairs of channels so like channels 3+4 would be 1.5 db overbias, channels 5+6 would be 2 db overbias, and on up... once you bias each channel you finish out the process (set the 1khz and 10 khz tones to read 0 db on repro, or whatever you are going for). Then play stereo music through each pair one by one, listening in repro mode to how each channel pair sounds with different amounts of over-bias. I picked the amount of overbias that made the source material sound the most like the original on playback. This was not the amount in the manual!!! I dont know why, but it could be because my heads are shot, though they don't "look" shot. You could go with any amount here its all a matter of taste. I think at 30 ips you are supposed to go for 1.75 db of overbias but on my machine this is not enough. Also if your calibration tone is not exactly 10khz then this amount will also change. (7 khz for example will appear to require more overbias).

A clue will be if you have to deviate far from the center of travel on the 10 khz adjustment. if you are turning down the 10khz all the way, for example, you probably need more overbias.

Also, are you planning on using the NR? don't forget to get that right this weekend! you will do it all wrong if it is engaged, I believe, I haven't ever messed with it so I don't know.
 
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I'm hoping that with the re-lapped heads, I will be able to get it pretty close to spec, but I'm curious what sounded best to you on your machine and at what speed...and are you using NR?

I'm going to probably run mine at 15ips without NR...and see how it is. The guy I bought it from said the deck was nice and quiet, and worked great at 15ips without NR, just drive the signals hot enough.
If it ends up with more hiss than I like...I'll try it at 30ips just to see how much of a difference there is, but I wanted the fat low low end from 15ips, and I don't need to chew up tape at 30ips. I think for basic Rock/Pop stuff I do, I won't need to run 30ips.
 
If you could take a pic of the deck which has the entire unit in the frame of the shot, (no cut off corners of the machine), from a slight left or right off center angle which shows a bit of the side of the unit, all from a nice but not extreme overhead angle, that would be really cool, I think. And also try to take it without the flash as that causes harsh shadows. And considering that the flash will be off, try to light it with some indirect lighting which will evenly light the machine without any hard shadows. And also have the machine turned on too. :)

Once done, email me the file to jeffpeletz @ sympatico.ca (no spaces).

Cheers! :)
Cough.

Cheers! :)
 
:D

I actually took them earlier today...was busy the last few days.

I'll have them uploaded soon.
 
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