MX 5050 no Rew or FF

  • Thread starter Thread starter technoplayer
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This is a problem I have now encountered too.
WPCHASE, did you ever get this resolved?
I've done all of the cleaning suggestions above. De-ox'd everthing: connectors, switches. Ohmed the switches, but stopped short of pulling components out.
Lots of Internet hits on this topic but nobody ever reports back that they fixed it.
 
Found the problem. The EDIT switch. Like the rest in that bank (power, reel and speed) it’s a DPDT, and its normally closed contacts read open. This prevents FF or REW from engaging. No amount of DeOxit will restore the contact. This is one stubborn switch!
Removed the switch and dropped some 91% isopropol alcohol down the shaft from both sides, which brought back continuity. Allowed it to dry then gave it a Deoxit chaser. Good for now.
 
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If the device puts force on the motor when rewinding, and with the help of a slight movement of the hands the reels move, this may be the same problem that causes the EDIT button?
 
Found the problem. The EDIT switch. Like the rest in that bank (power, reel and speed) it’s a DPDT, and its normally closed contacts read open. This prevents FF or REW from engaging. No amount of DeOxit will restore the contact. This is one stubborn switch!
Removed the switch and dropped some 91% isopropol alcohol down the shaft from both sides, which brought back continuity. Allowed it to dry then gave it a Deoxit chaser. Good for now.
I have not yet resolved my issue. Sounds like I pursue the same course of action with the Edit switch...

Separate question, but I also noticed there is no capacitor C801 on PB-46Q. I can't find reference to it in the schematic, so I guess that is the intended design?
 
Found the problem. The EDIT switch. Like the rest in that bank (power, reel and speed) it’s a DPDT, and its normally closed contacts read open. This prevents FF or REW from engaging. No amount of DeOxit will restore the contact. This is one stubborn switch!
Removed the switch and dropped some 91% isopropol alcohol down the shaft from both sides, which brought back continuity. Allowed it to dry then gave it a Deoxit chaser. Good for now.
Just curious - was there any indication the switch was faulty in terms of normal operation? I haven't pulled out the PCB to test the switch w/my multimeter just yet, but when the switch is pushed in/ON the green indicator light lights up and the capstan starts spinning... when in the out/OFF position, the indicator light is off and the capstan stops. So in your case, did it otherwise appear to be in the OFF position, but in reality wasn't completely closed?
 
So I really went to town with deoxit on the edit button (as well as the others again) and the issue is resolved.
 
I was having this same issue with my Bii2 and following wpchase's post, I also "really went to town" on the dioxit in the Edit pot and it fixed the issue. Friggin amazing because nothing short of really spraying the crap out of it seemed to work. AMAZING.
 
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