Minimum width for corner bass traps

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I think the title pretty much says it all. I am planning on building some corner bass traps, and from what I have read here (unless I have missed some posts) is that corner bass traps are usually 2 feet wide. is this the minimum or recommended width?
 
From everywhere that I have researched Bass traps there is slight variations on the dimensions of width from product to product. However 2' is not the minimum width because you have various factors contributing to the equation such as thickness and the type of medium being used in the construction of the traps.

2' in width however seems to be the general consensus amongst home recordists when constructing their own traps.
 
2' in width however seems to be the general consensus amongst home recordists when constructing their own traps.
Thats because panels of rigid fiberglass come in 2 foot widths. Just lay them across the corners and Voila! :D But if you REALLY want bass traps, cut the panels in half so you have TWO 2'x2' panels. Then cut them diagonally, so you have FOUR diamond shaped pieces. Stack them in the corner. With 4" thick panels, it will take 6 panels to fill a corner. Attach some wood strips vertically to the wall at the edge of the fiberglass, and staple fabric to one side the strips. Stretch it across and staple it to the other side. These are called "Superchunks" and have been tested. Better absorption at low frequencies than just a panel laid across the corner.

Here is a pic of one in the lab for testing. As usually is done, these are laying in a floor/wall corner, which you could do as wells as wall/ceiling corners.
fitZ
 

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Thanks for the advice and pic Rick. Much easier to do than I anticipated. I didn't realize that wall/floor traps existed. Would you have any recommendation on keeping the wedges in place at the ceiling/wall while you cover them in fabric?
 
Would you have any recommendation on keeping the wedges in place at the ceiling/wall while you cover them in fabric?
Assemble a double cleat for the support at both the wall and ceiling. This takes accurate dimensions when fastening. Twist the fiberglass diagonals into place. Then staple fabric. Pin nail a third trim piece. This is how I would do it. You would have to bevel all the cleats and trim on a table saw or skill saw. There are other ways I'm sure though. Inginuity is the name of the game.
fitZ :)

PS, this shows toggle bolts, but nails or screws into the wall studs or ceiling joists may work if you can find them.
 

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Here is a plan view detail for the vertical corners(wall/wall). However, if your wall to wall corner absorbers intersect at the ceiling absorbers, the joinery is....well lets just say have fun. :eek: :D
 

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Thanks for taking the time to illustrate your suggestions Rick. I'm going to build the traps as per your suggestions. It seems simple enough. My only apprehension is having to screw through the drywall after putting up double sheets and sealing all the joints with caulking, to make sure there is no leakage, but I guess its a neccessary evil.
 
rick.thats pure excellent gearhead HR stuff..great.

one of the best threads in awhile.
 
My only apprehension is having to screw through the drywall after putting up double sheets and sealing all the joints with caulking, to make sure there is no leakage, but I guess its a neccessary evil.
:eek: GADZOOKS!! Hold on. That possibility didn't dawn on me. I only suggested these little solutions as a "normal" homestudio DIY project. If you've gone so far as to put up double drywall, I'd say use construction adhesive for most of it, only using toggles where necessary. Preferably screws into studs or joists, unless you've used Resiliant channel. In that case, do NOT short out the RC or connect the drywall/RC to the studs or joists. Of course, caulk around the toggles on the back side of the cleat before inserting into the hole in the drywall. Actually, the wall/wall cleats could be held with construction adhesive only. Just tape them in place till the adhesive cures. There is a quickdry version of Liquid Nails I believe
Well, good luck with the project.
fitZ :)
 
does this mean the itchy and scratch show and lung damage in the long term as in the stack (club sandwich method), the rock wool is only sealed in at the front? many thanks. Also is there a minimum dimension for the triangles of rock wool, I've got 30 centimetres by 30, by 45. Is that ok?
 
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