mechanics of string breakage

pchorman

pchorman

New member
I seem to consistently break strings right at the notch in the saddle of my LP. These include the three unwound strings which all break with about the same frequency (say every week or so with daily playing, not too bad), and I use Fender Bullet 10's.

I'd like to know if everyone else finds this to be the spot where their strings always snap, and whether the grooves cut into the saddle piece might be a bit too sharp at spots, or may be affected by burrs. Maybe this is something that can be fixed by smoothing the grooves just slightly, but not enough to compromise sustain (if there is such a compromise).

Someone here long ago mentioned they use a minute amount of oil to ease the friction underneath the strings at this point. I've tried this idea using good quality metal-to-metal Moly paste, and it seems to have offered some improvement, but this is still where my strings consistently fail.

Any thoughts?
 
Same problem here using 11-52's and it doesn't seem fussy about which string, maybe except the low E. All the others seem to go with monotonous regularity.

Unfortunately, I haven't had or made time to examine the bridge saddles with a magnifying glass, so I don't have a solution.......yet.



:cool:
 
I knew that some people used graphite up in the groove cut into the nut on the other end, but didn't think that would be optimum for the metal-to-metal friction points on the saddle. Yea, why not? Worth trying.
 
My re-stringing kit contains the following:

1.Small needle-nose pliers/cutters
2.String winder
3.Lemon oil
4.Cotton shop rag
5.A #2 pencil

After cleaning the neck with the lemon oil and re-stringing I apply graphite from pencil liberally to the nut and saddle slots while stretching the strings. If you continue to have breakage problems try some valve-lapping compound on an old string. Gently run it back-and-forth through the slot until it moves freely. Not too much or you'll deepen the slot!
 
try gently rounding the groove with a die file, the obvious applies, you can't stick it back if you take off too much. As far as affecting your sustain it won't really change much, you get a pressure with more tension in lbs per square inch with point contact but with a broader surface you get mass so it all evens out in the end.
It is not only confined to Gibsons, some Fenders, those with the stainless cast saddles rather than the pressed steel have a habit of doing this but all respond well to a file.
 
Things that i have noticed that atribute to string breakage:
burrs on the string sadles - i have used a light grade file.
heavy right hand- after playing a couple years i useally only break a string once every couple of months.
old strings- they tend to corrode, snap! - acid in your skin can dull out strings fast. keep em clean.
poor intonation.also keep your git in tune.(?)
try a bigger gage.
cheap strings?- used ernyball once ,snap, 3 sets of fender bullets 10's- these strings age faster than a fly.dull.
 
detuned6, interested in your cheap string selection, I have always found Fender Bullets expensive, but that may well be the buggers here selling for good 'ol profit over quality, having said that I have had a fairly good run with both Fenders and Ernie Balls. What do you class as a quality set? I'd be interested to try them.
Another point is that about 15 years ago there weren't that many string makers in the world and your favourite brand most likely came from the same factory that your un-favourite brand, has that changed? Could be that strings are made in the 3rd world for 3rd world cost and sold on for first world profit. Shit, how unusual.
Clive
 
I used to have that problem with my Rick bass, the G string would break at the saddle.

Just run a fine rat tail file over it, to round it out a little.

Worked for me, now strings die of old age.

GT
 
good advise from all. will certainly try. I also learned what the hell valve-lapping oil was out of this post.

GT: long time no hear. I think we had discussed things like intonation quirks when I first joined this forum.
 
pchorman,

Good to hear you too!! That intonation thread was one of my favorites.

I think the importance of intonation is highly underrated. You know my (do it by ear, with chords up and down the neck, and don't use a strobe at the twelfth fret philosophy), well I still believe it.

I would be honered to have you hear my latest recording, I did on my new Zoom MRS-4 four track.

Song; Steely Jam

http://www.nowhereradio.com/gt/singles

If you have something you want me to hear let me know.

GT
 
cool jamming there with Steely Dan. I take it that was steady rocking on a wah in conjunction with something else for compounded psychodelic effect? remind me - do you play through a Nomad?

I listened to a couple of others, like Mood For a Day and your Instrumental. nice stuff. my playing is nothing like that in terms of style. too many years of mostly hard rock have indelibly corrupted my playing style.

good quality recordings.
 
clive

i have goodluck with these: Dr's, dean markly blue steel,
d addario( there cheep but sound good) i "very much" dislike ghs tone.
 
M.Brane said:
I apply graphite from pencil liberally to the nut and saddle slots while stretching the strings
Click to expand...

Brane...
Don't wanna seem like a total fool... (too late eh?:rolleyes: )
But what did you mean by that quote?
 
Brane...
Don't wanna seem like a total fool... (too late eh? )
But what did you mean by that quote?
Click to expand...

Rubbing chin:
Hmmmm. How can I elaborate?

OK. The strings are on and tuned to pitch. I stretch them out by pulling up away from the fretboard at about the 12th fret and sliding my finger back and forth from the bridge to the nut. I then lift the string out of the slot and apply graphite to both the slot and string. Repeat for the bridge saddles. I continue to stretch the strings until they no longer go flat from stretching, then wipe off any excess pencil from the nut/saddles.

Comprende? :D
 
No, no comprendo.:p

Actually, what I wanted to know was about the #2 pencil.
You refer to it as graphite?
That's the part that I don't understand is there graphite in pencil lead? Or am I just confused:confused:

Let me know dude...
Thanks!
 
is there graphite in pencil lead?
Click to expand...

There is no lead in pencils. Hasn't been for years. It's 100% graphite!;)

Could you imagine the lawsuits against the pencil manufacturers by the parents of kids that chewed on pencils if they really had lead in 'em? :eek:

Glad I could clear that up for you bro.:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top