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Moodydodds
New member
I just built a stand for my dj equipment with a sliding shelf for my Motif do guys have any suggestions on how I should finish it the stand - paint, laminate, or other
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Moodydodds
New member
Wow, 45 views and no response.
Michael Jones
New member
It's made out of MDF? If so then the cheapest way out is to paint it. Laminating it would look better, but would probably cost more.
TexRoadkill
Audio Bum
Melamine is veneered MDF. You can use some of that or get the veneer that they use. Since you've already built it paint is probably the easiest solution.
RICK FITZPATRICK
New member
Hello, let me clarify something. Melamine is a thermoformed/pressed laminate surface for prelamanted sheetgoods. You cannot buy it AS A POST LAMINATE PRODUCT. It is for MDF manufacturers to laminate to MDF as it is manufactured, as it is on a roll that is actually thermofused to the panels The panels come in 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" thick. Actual laminate is available, although it is thicker than a melamine surface. You CAN purchase prelaminated Melamine PANELS at home depot, although only in white, or sometimes woodgrain. Besides, you already built it. Most laminate covered projects are preplaned with it in mind, so if necessary, you can PRE laminate required parts before assembly(ie, the inside of cabinets etc.) Without seeing what you've built, and knowing your skilllevel, I would hesitate to suggest laminate(Formica, Wilsonart, etc.) on your desk, MDF was designed for paint and veneer/laminate finishes. Laminate is easy to use, provided you have a way to cut it(usually a table saw), and trim(usually a router with a flushcut roller bearing bit), but can be very difficult to trim a surface edge that does not allow the router bit o reach the corners(ie legs, etc.) Most laminate work on panel surfaces is fairly easy for the experienced worker, difficult for someone who has not done it before, or who does not have the appropriate tools, or laminating surfaces that are irregular and or complex. It must be cut oversise, and glued to the surface with contact cement which does not allow for movement if you make a position mistake, and then trimmed by a router. For a novice, I would suggest painting the whole thing. Sorry for the extended reply. Just trying to CLARIFY. I bet youve already painted it by this time anyway!
fitz
PS. Melamine works very well. I've built all the fixtures in my studio out of black melamine, which is available by special order from the right vendor. However, for easy
assembly, I machined the parts with stop dados and shoulders for pre edgebanding
as melamine has exposed mdf edges, so they are easier to deal with by edgebanding.
Manufacturers of fixturework use all kinds of special machining techniques to deal with Melamine. If you cut it with a skill saw, the edges come out like shit. as the Melamine surface is VERY fragil for uplift machining.(the skill saw blade uplifts the cut) Use masking tape on the saw cut to prevent tearout.(however, skill saw butt joints come out like crap, so I would suggest using a table saw with a 80 tooth carbide blade. I know this won't help you now, as you have already built it. This is for future use, if you like to build as I do.
fitz
PS. Melamine works very well. I've built all the fixtures in my studio out of black melamine, which is available by special order from the right vendor. However, for easy
assembly, I machined the parts with stop dados and shoulders for pre edgebanding
as melamine has exposed mdf edges, so they are easier to deal with by edgebanding.
Manufacturers of fixturework use all kinds of special machining techniques to deal with Melamine. If you cut it with a skill saw, the edges come out like shit. as the Melamine surface is VERY fragil for uplift machining.(the skill saw blade uplifts the cut) Use masking tape on the saw cut to prevent tearout.(however, skill saw butt joints come out like crap, so I would suggest using a table saw with a 80 tooth carbide blade. I know this won't help you now, as you have already built it. This is for future use, if you like to build as I do.
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Moodydodds
New member
Thanks for the replies. What type of paint should I use flat, latex, etc...?
knightfly
GrouchyOldFartOnBatteries
Wow, Rick - didn't know ya had it in ya :=) JK, good post - you missed one helpful idea - when cutting stuff like that with a table saw, flip the piece over - less breakout when the blade is coming from the other side (if your saw table is likely to scratch the "good" side, use a thin veneer "pad" on the table)
Moodydodds, depends on the texture you want/don't want on the surfaces - one way for a smooth surface - sand down to at least 240 grit, preferably 320, then heavy coat of OIL base primer, sand smooth, (320) then use a SATIN spray finish - I've used Rustoleum Satin Black with fair success - they are still using a CONICAL spray nozzle on their rattle cans, so you have to be careful about overlap, and get a heavy enough coat to avoid "misting" some areas, but it can be done.
Some manufacturers (Dutchboy for one) use an adjustable spray nozzle on their rattle cans which is actually a FAN spray, can be turned to be either horizontal or vertical - this gives as close a finish to pro HVLP guns as you'll get out of a rattle can. Don't remember if they offer Satin Black, or if that's even what you want - you'd have to find a dealer that carries Dutchboy, and see what colors they have availiable.
HTH... Steve
Moodydodds, depends on the texture you want/don't want on the surfaces - one way for a smooth surface - sand down to at least 240 grit, preferably 320, then heavy coat of OIL base primer, sand smooth, (320) then use a SATIN spray finish - I've used Rustoleum Satin Black with fair success - they are still using a CONICAL spray nozzle on their rattle cans, so you have to be careful about overlap, and get a heavy enough coat to avoid "misting" some areas, but it can be done.
Some manufacturers (Dutchboy for one) use an adjustable spray nozzle on their rattle cans which is actually a FAN spray, can be turned to be either horizontal or vertical - this gives as close a finish to pro HVLP guns as you'll get out of a rattle can. Don't remember if they offer Satin Black, or if that's even what you want - you'd have to find a dealer that carries Dutchboy, and see what colors they have availiable.
HTH... Steve
RICK FITZPATRICK
New member
Hey Steve, thanks guy! Didn't realize your a "woodbutcher" too!! I knew you build, but thats a nice tip. It didn't come to mind. At work, the beam saw uses a 16" blade with 240 teeth
Is so precise you can line up 20 bookmatched veneer panels on a wall and still come out plumb!(.002 in 20') No tearout there. (for REALLY thin veneers they use a pre-scoring blade also.) Anyway, it sounds like you are VERY knowledgable and skilled in this stuff. BTW Steve, you got any use for some veneers, I've got a ton of cutoffs(most 4' x 4' sheets, with paper backers) Got honduras mahog, bubinga, anigre, birdseye maple, gaboon, ah...ash, pine, and a dozen more oddballs. Be happy to send you some rolled up if you like. Let me know.(I collect a lot of stuff from work
My wife thinks I'm crazy, but I build a lot of craftwork(boxs, little cabinets etc.) At least when my shop is set up. Just ripped some 1/2"thick x 6" wide pieces off some gluelam cutoffs that look like 6" thick plywood. Ran em through a planner. Mitered them and made some boxes that look like multilayered veneers. Came out cool. Especially when I raidiused all the edges. Made 11 boxx out one pc. of lam. When I get to Oregon, I want to open some kind of shop.(my wife sells on ebay)so I need a shop to fix all the stuff she buys at yard sales etc. Besides, I LOVE to build. Can't wait to build my final studio. Say Steve, one more thing, do you draw in CAD or in any media? How would you like to colaborate? Just a thought.
fitz
PS....
Holy shit, I'm watching a documentary on a music center at University of Cal in Davis. Wow, talk about acoustics. The whole interior is bookmatched veneered difussers.Many different kinds. They have some kind of wood latice in front of BIG RPG type up above the balconys, that traverse the whole room peremeter They said this creates a "sound storage". Maybe to increase the RT-60? Anyway, behind the orchestra, they have movable panels maybe 30' high(they roll on wheels, kind of like giant gobos, with a grid of coffer type radiusd surfaces. Too much. Hmmm, would love to see the plans and acoustic documents tor that room.
And I'm havin trouble with a little ole room. Ha!! Get real Rick.
Is so precise you can line up 20 bookmatched veneer panels on a wall and still come out plumb!(.002 in 20') No tearout there. (for REALLY thin veneers they use a pre-scoring blade also.) Anyway, it sounds like you are VERY knowledgable and skilled in this stuff. BTW Steve, you got any use for some veneers, I've got a ton of cutoffs(most 4' x 4' sheets, with paper backers) Got honduras mahog, bubinga, anigre, birdseye maple, gaboon, ah...ash, pine, and a dozen more oddballs. Be happy to send you some rolled up if you like. Let me know.(I collect a lot of stuff from work My wife thinks I'm crazy, but I build a lot of craftwork(boxs, little cabinets etc.) At least when my shop is set up. Just ripped some 1/2"thick x 6" wide pieces off some gluelam cutoffs that look like 6" thick plywood. Ran em through a planner. Mitered them and made some boxes that look like multilayered veneers. Came out cool. Especially when I raidiused all the edges. Made 11 boxx out one pc. of lam. When I get to Oregon, I want to open some kind of shop.(my wife sells on ebay)so I need a shop to fix all the stuff she buys at yard sales etc. Besides, I LOVE to build. Can't wait to build my final studio. Say Steve, one more thing, do you draw in CAD or in any media? How would you like to colaborate? Just a thought.fitz
PS....
Holy shit, I'm watching a documentary on a music center at University of Cal in Davis. Wow, talk about acoustics. The whole interior is bookmatched veneered difussers.Many different kinds. They have some kind of wood latice in front of BIG RPG type up above the balconys, that traverse the whole room peremeter They said this creates a "sound storage". Maybe to increase the RT-60? Anyway, behind the orchestra, they have movable panels maybe 30' high(they roll on wheels, kind of like giant gobos, with a grid of coffer type radiusd surfaces. Too much. Hmmm, would love to see the plans and acoustic documents tor that room.
And I'm havin trouble with a little ole room. Ha!! Get real Rick.