Making insert cables

[Adam P]

Hey,

Can anyone recommend any particular model numbers of cable (Belden, Mogami, Canare, any of them) as well as Neutrik or Switchcraft ends that are best suited to making TRS-dual TS insert cables? The opening on the rear of the Neutrik NP3C doesn't seem like it would be big enough to accomodate the thicker cable, but maybe it can.

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[Adam P]

Anybody here make these? Or do you just buy them? I really don't want to buy Hosa cables, but I don't want to spend a shitload on some higher end cables from eBay when I know I could make my own for a decent price if I knew the best parts to use for the job.

Thanks!

 

[dgatwood]

Anybody here make these? Or do you just buy them? I really don't want to buy Hosa cables, but I don't want to spend a shitload on some higher end cables from eBay when I know I could make my own for a decent price if I knew the best parts to use for the job.

There's not enough info to really answer that question. What are you trying to wire the inserts to? What sort of cable lengths are we talking about? What are you hooking it up to on the other end?

 

[Adam P]

Insert cables. Like cables to patch stuff into the inserts on my mixer. TRS on one end (tip = send, ring = return), two TS on the other end. Like this, only, you know...not Hosa...

Any thoughts?

 

[dgatwood]

Insert cables. Like cables to patch stuff into the inserts on my mixer. TRS on one end (tip = send, ring = return), two TS on the other end. Like this, only, you know...not Hosa...

Any thoughts?

Yes, I know what insert cables are. That tells what one end of the cable should look like and that the other end should be split into two plugs or jacks. It doesn't say anything about what those two plugs or jacks should be.

My insert cables terminate in RCA plugs. Back at another studio that my father helped wire, they terminated in bare wire soldered to a patch bay. If you don't have a patch bay, it might even make sense to terminate in (mono) 1/4" jacks. You get the idea.

Anyway, you didn't answer the question about length. If we're talking six inches, you could just about wire it with bell wire and it would sound fine. If we're talking about six feet, you're going to want a heavier wire.

 

[Adam P]

Sorry. Like I said, TRS (male, if you'd like me to be more specific). Two TS on the other end (again, male). TRS tip to one TS tip, TRS ring to the other TS tip, TRS sleeve to both TS sleeves. Anywhere between 3 and 6 feet in length.

Any cable recommendations, preferably specific model numbers? Belden, Canare, Gepco, whatever. I plan on using Neutrik NP3Cs for the TRS ends unless the cable won't fit through the rubber end of the connector, in which case I'll need to know of a cable end that will fit.

Thanks.

 

[ez_willis]

Sorry. Like I said, TRS (male, if you'd like me to be more specific). Two TS on the other end (again, male). TRS tip to one TS tip, TRS ring to the other TS tip, TRS sleeve to both TS sleeves. Anywhere between 3 and 6 feet in length.

Any cable recommendations, preferably specific model numbers? Belden, Canare, Gepco, whatever. I plan on using Neutrik NP3Cs for the TRS ends unless the cable won't fit through the rubber end of the connector, in which case I'll need to know of a cable end that will fit.

Thanks.

Are you wanting 1/4" ends all around?

 

[easychair]

Horizon LoZ2
Canare L-2B2AT

Good choices, about half the size of regular mic cable, nice and flexible, especially the Canare. I used to heat-shrink the cables together before closing up the connector.

I mostly buy cables now, though I have made a bunch. I pretty much stopped making cables when I "went pro" and started making my living doing sound. It just became not worth my time.

If you decide to buy, I would consider EWI as a decent budget solution, and I would really like to try some of this guy's cables. Top-notch connectors and cable, very reasonable prices. You almost couldn't buy the parts for what he charges.

Bayou cables

ps-

I don't like having two cables where there could be one. When I buy pre-made ones more than a few feet long, I either tape them together every foot or so, or take off the TRS connector and use pieces of heat shrink every foot or so, and leave enough for a good fan-out at the TS end.

When I made them, I used heat-shrink, or one of two methods. I used the zip-cord like Hosa does, and a piece of heat-shrink to keep it from splitting past where I wanted. I think I just used bulk unbalanced RCA-type cable. I don't remember, it's been awhile, and I stumbled on a different method that I used because I had some extra mic cable and I just though it looked more pro.

I wired one end TRS, and at the TS end made a short jumper of L-2B2AT or similar. This jumper was wired as my return, and comes out of the back of the send TS jack. The TS return jack is then soldered to the jumper. So there is only one cable except for very close to your send/return jacks in your rack. Not worth it for short runs, but for six feet or more, it really cleans up your wire mess.

I also used this method when I made my insert snakes. Pre-made ones usually use twice the amount of channels as there are inserts, ie an eight-channel insert snake uses 16-channel snake cable. My 8-channel insert snakes use 8-channel snake cable.