Making a guitar cab....

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bford

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Does anyone know of any plans out there on the net for making guitar cabs. I know it's not that involved, but still a little guidance that could save me some headaches and time would be fantastic. I"m looking to make a simple 1x10 cab. Thanks for your time. :cool:

bford
 
Hard to find plans, I found this:

From: T. Naumann

I don't know alot about guitar speaker cabinet design. I take it that open back cabinets take advantage of the drivers free air resonance, but how do manufacturers come up with the dimensions of sealed enclosures? It seems to me that the specs on the individual speakers don't matter much to designers if you can just buy four new speakers and drop them into your cabinet. Do they even try to figure that stuff out like HIFI loudspeaker designers do? For instance, if I had a Marshall 4x10, how could I be sure that four of your P10P's would sound right in it? Would it be worthwhile to try to custom design and build a sealed cabinet based on the T-S parameters of the P10P?

I sure wish I could state an answer as well as you posted the question. Unfortunately, I have never met, talked to, nor read any articles written by the original designers of speaker cabinets for guitar amps with regards to their philosophy of design, etc. Like most, I do have my own observations and opinions on them, though. No doubt, in a combo amp an open back enclosure is imperative to allow air to flow in and out for cooling the tubes and other electronic components. Having the back open also allows for a convenient storage space for the power cord, etc. The amp would sound louder overall at the expense of losing a little on the low end, the extra loudness being a plus for the marketing of the amp. Most combos I've seen are designed with just enough room for the speaker to be mounted with a symetrical border of baffle around it, while not interfering with any of the chassis components. Having been involved in production engineering as well as cost accounting, I can assure you there was also some thought given to how much wood and covering would be used for a given size cabinet using the standard sizes of material stock, while yielding the least amount of scrap. Another issue would be total shipping weight, since that would have to be factored in when arriving at a price for dealers. In a sealed enclosure, it generally takes more electrical power to get the same acoustic power as a similar sized open back. The sealed air in the cabinet behind the speaker acts as a resistance to cone movement, the smaller the enclosure, the more the resistance. Think of blowing up a small, tight balloon. You have to blow like heck to get it started compared to a large loose balloon. So, the bigger the box, the better, generally. Now think of the early '60s 'piggy back' amps. It wasn't long before players were standing them on end with the amp head sitting on top. Was it for better sound projection or because it looked cool? Of course, manufactures saw that, started making the 'stand-up' models, and made the cabinets larger but still used the same size speakers. Next is the question of designing the box to match the speakers technical specs. I've often wondered that myself, and have never really arrived at a good answer. Some recent amp manufactures, such as Dr. Z are using ported cabinets and are getting very high marks from reviewers. Nevertheless, these designers, like all guitar amp designers, are designing and building for a particular sound and performance as a guitar amp, not a HIFI speaker enclosure. In other words, the issue here is music 'sourcing', not music 'reproduction'. Your last question is one I don't think I'll ever be able to answer, even as a speaker manufacturer. I've had people call me and tell me "I gotta tell you, this is the worst speaker I've ever heard in this amp, way too dark". Yet, I've had others tell me the same speaker is the best they've ever had, and they've been trying for a long time to find the right speaker for that particular amp. To design a cabinet that matches the speakers technical specs will certainly smooth out its performance, make it a better mathematical model, so to speak, but on the other hand, much of the desireable guitar tone is in the comb filtering, cone breakup, and other distortions that occur when a speaker is taken to the edge of its design operating parameters. It's apparent this is why serious players buy, sell, and trade speakers, like amps, until they get the tone they are after.
Additional comments submitted by Joe Breher: Jim Marshall, the man who gave us the world's most emulated sealed box guitar amp speaker enclosure, was recently interviewed by a popular guitar magazine. In the interview, he stated that the dimensions for his cabinet were dictated by the smallest practical cabinet that would fit 4-12" speakers. Evidently, no thought whatsoever was given to the acoustical properties of the cabinet.

And that's from this site http://www.webervst.com/sptalk.html .
 
bford said:
Does anyone know of any plans out there on the net for making guitar cabs. I know it's not that involved, but still a little guidance that could save me some headaches and time would be fantastic. I"m looking to make a simple 1x10 cab. Thanks for your time. :cool:

bford


If you don't know how to build a square box and route out a circle, you might want to start elsewhere first. Seriously.

Email me if you want pics from the inside of my Marshall cab. Its an angled cab, but the straight cabs are not much different.

Now for durability, you might want to use dovetail joints. But if you don't know how to make those, then you need to take some shop classes and get a $50 template machine thing because doing that by hand will take you until you can't even play guitar anymore.
 
I know a guy who just put together a pine box, varnished it and threw a celestion (sp?) speaker in it, and used it for live gigs. The box was just big enough for that one 10 inch speaker, and he used it for a monitor for himself more than anything, but it cranked! His set up was guitar into a processor, processor into a power amp, power amp to that little box.
 
Well, audiophile speaker designers will tell you that box shape is a majour issue.

What I have to say is, if you want a lot of bass, make sure you have enough box space for it. Bass ports can lower this space requirement. There was a whole website I found giving calculations for all of this, but frankly, if you're trying to make a basic cab, pop into a guitar store, take some rough measurements, and build it. Most mainstream companies don't put much work into their cabs (as mentioned in that article) and it doesn't seem to affect tone or sound qualities too much, so I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Imaduck said:
Well, audiophile speaker designers will tell you that box shape is a majour issue.

What I have to say is, if you want a lot of bass, make sure you have enough box space for it. Bass ports can lower this space requirement. There was a whole website I found giving calculations for all of this, but frankly, if you're trying to make a basic cab, pop into a guitar store, take some rough measurements, and build it. Most mainstream companies don't put much work into their cabs (as mentioned in that article) and it doesn't seem to affect tone or sound qualities too much, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Have to agree with the duck. I have made several 2 x 12 open backs pa cabs and all I did was measure my twin, see how much space was alloted to the amp and make the height of the cab the clearance between the base and that.
You don't need dovetails althought they are nice, I just used a piece of 30mm (1 1/4 ) squ and glued and screwed in all joins. It has not let me down and I don't expect it to.
For the open back I did the same dimensions as my twin and I'm happy as a pig in shit with it. It tightened up the sound, reduced the weight I had to lug around by a whole lot.
I did the same with a sealed back 1 x 12 but used 2 ports. As a rough guide I was told extend the ports to the depth of the speaker and it worked fine.
After that get some tolex from "Tubes and More" plus corners, the results will look great with a bit of time and care. Try and get the tolex joins on the bottom. When you glue lay the stuff on the top and clamp across with a smooth block of wood. Apply the glue to both surfaces and allow to touch dry, do about 8 inches at a time till you gain confidence.
When it is dry put some small bits of squ wood across to prevent contact. Pull the tolex taught and remove the bit of wood closest to the clamp and push it to contact, keeping it under tension all the time. repeat till that portion is glued. Move the clamp to the area you have just done and reclamp then repeat the whole process. Don't over tighten the clamp, it needs to tight but not crushing, especially if you use carpet instead of tolex.
Good luck with it.
Clive
 
Hey, this is great practical info! Thanks a ton. I'm thinking of building a cab this summer, and was getting discouraged by the other sites I'd found in my research. Some of those guys must have pocket protectors and slide rules clenched in their sweaty hands at all times, I swear. When you do actually think about amps like the Fenders with the open backs, it's obvious that this does not have to be rocket science to get a good result. I love the Jim Marshall quote.
 
I have been building amps with a friend,.. I would be happy to take some photos of how I have been putting the cabs together,... and send them to you via Email, or post them here if there are others who are interested,...

I have been using 3/4" maple plywood, but if you are just doing one cab, pine would be fine,.... as for the covering,... I am using standard Tolex to cover the cabs, and attaching feet, corners, and handle to give it a finished 'Pro' appearence..... you do not need to cover it at all, but just be aware that if you do that, all your cuts, and assembly methods, as well as the fit and finish will be important if others are going to see it,....

If that is unimportant to you,.. :eek: . then just hammer together a pine box with enough room to mount what you have chosen for a speaker,... and plug it in....if, on the other hand, you do want it to look nice,... I can give you several alternatives for finishing it, and websites to go to for parts like handles, grill cloth etc....


Steve
 
One can probably find lots of plans via Google for cabinets.

Ed
 
By all means, post 'em when you can. I bet many others here would be interested. You say you are building amps... give us some details please. Are you "re-boxing" existing amps, or are you building them from scratch like the guys at 18watt.com or whatever it is that are building baby Marshall clones?
 
Thanks for all of the replies... I can build a basic square box and cut the hole, I was just trying to decide if I should take it any farther, maybe with the help of someone who had done it before. I did a google, and didn't come up with as much as I thought I would. Thanks for your help, and if I find anything really cool, I'll let you know.

peace

bford
 
I made 3 very basic cabs and they sound good to me, use comon logic and it should be fine. You don't really need all those fancy plans, exept if you want something fancy.
 
Allright,

Now recommend me a 1x10 speaker to put in this bad boy I'm going to make.


wattage over 30 watts would be best.

bford
 
I haven't built speaker enclosures for years, but as I remember, the type of enclosure will determine the type of speaker you use. That is, a closed box uses a large throw, high compliance speaker (the enclosed air mass acts as a cushion or damper for the speaker's voice coil excursion); a ported bass less compliant, and an open back a low compliance, stiffer speaker.

You might want to look into this before you decide which speaker/box combo you're going to use.
 
There are several ways to go when you talk about building a cabinet,....

and a few questions too,.... like,.... will it be exclusively a separate cab for an amp head, or do you want to mount an amp in there,....?? will it be for looks as well as sound,...? are you using this cab as the only sound maker when you play, or is it strictly for a practice box...??

It sort of makes a difference also when you talk about what kind of amp is driving the speaker,... solid state, or tube,.... there are some speakers that just sound better when driven with tube amplification,....

and it also is very important to choose a speaker that will sound good to you depending on the style and type of music you are playing through it,....

there are Alnico magnets, Ceramic magnets, Neo-Dynam magnets, all have a different dynamic when being driven by your playing....

so, tell a bit more about your music, and what you are trying to accomplish for sound,....Fender like,... Mesa like,... Vox like,... Marshall like,....???? or a mix of those,...??

Steve
 
good points... I was very vague there. I play poprockalternastuff...... It will be used with a couple of low wattage heads and I want an alnico magnet. Dimensions will be around 16 inches wide, 14 inches tall and probably around 7 inches deep. I've started looking at a lot of cabinets on the net and at a couple of my small combo amps and these seem to be good for most ten inch speaker cabs. Also, it will be open back. Thanks for the help and your time as always.

bford
 
A lot goes into designing speaker cabs - the design, the baffle, the woods used, the techniques used to put it together. Don't skimp on the cabinet AT ALL, think about it: which would sound better, a speaker in a cereal box or a speaker in a proper cab?

If you're on a budget I would go out and hunt down an unwanted combo or cab, and simply gut it out for your own purposes.

You mentioned you'd be using low wattage heads. So stay clear of higher wattage speakers (which is usually the cheap stuff) - unless you want a lot of clean headroom. But since I saw "poprockalternastuff" I don't think you want to! You want that lower wattage because speaker distortion is just as important as tube distortion. Commit $100 for an awesome low wattage Celestion (the best) and you'll be very happy.
 
I bought the wood for my cab. Birch ply very nice looking and easy to cut. It's 1\2 inch thick. I did all of the cuts yesterday. Placed it together using a couple of clamps and it looks like it's going to be cool. I ordered a speaker from Weber today. I just bought a basic 10 inch Alnico. I've heard good things about this model, and it's not expensive at all. I'm going to order the tolex and grill cloth this week. I think I'm going with a rough blonde tolex and a dark brown grill cloth. It should look very nice. Thanks for everyone's help. Once it's built I'll try to post some pics, if I can figure out how to do it.

Thanks,

bford
 
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